WGK7000 19" does not turn on

ebo0763

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I have a WG K7000 n19" in a Toobin cab and it won't turn on. There's no glow on the tube.

Anybody have any suggestions? The black part under the diode that I installed looks pretty bad... what is it and could it be part of the problem?

Here's what I did:
- I checked and there is power going to the chassis.
- I reflowed to solder points in the power circuit.
- I added a diode (see picture) because it was on the schematics but there was none before. And I can't tell if it was working or not without it before I installed it.
- I replaced the parts identified in the following pictures:

img02071i.jpg


img02102w.jpg


img0211qi.jpg
 
Last edited:
that chassis is gnarly looking.:eek:

is the fuse blowing??

yes i would replace the black capacitor at C38 it is gnarly looking and is probably out of spec or shorted.

the diode is required to be there sometimes it is on the solder side of the chassis.

that was done because some of the diodes used had bigger leads than the holed manufactured in the board. call it a design flaw or the diodes wells got in for production were the wrong part and the never sent them back to get the rite ones who knows.

has a cap kit and re-flow been done on that chassis.

Peace
Buffett
 
is the fuse blowing??

yes i would replace the black capacitor at C38 it is gnarly looking and is probably out of spec or shorted.

has a cap kit and re-flow been done on that chassis.

Peace
Buffett

The fuse was blown when I've found this monitor, so I put a new but i will test it to see if the new one is burnt.

That's a capacitor? That's interesting... Just to make sure, I'm talking about the thing between the new diode and the new resitor.

re-flow has been done in that corner of the chassis, not everywhere. and no cap kit yet.
 
yes that black thing is what i am talking about.
it is known as a poly/mylar/orange drop cap.
it is not electrolytic like the others.

if the fuse is blown again then several other things can affect it.

but it needs a cap kit flyback and a total re-flow before we start.

other things to check wile you have it out, that will make the fuse blow are:

C 36, 37, 38 or ( 39 if your chassis has it)
the H.O.T.
D 13-24
the VR

Peace
Buffett
 
Did you make sure there is a MICA insulator behind that HOT because I don't see one. That will fry the HOT as soon as you power it up!
 
Since that caps toasted and it's one of the ones that will blow the fuse when it burns up, I'd say that's at least part of your problem!
 
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