WG6101 Blows fuse 101, maybe 100

saltbreez

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Messages
878
Reaction score
3
Location
Olympia, Washington
Ok, so the Tempest I brought home only ran for 5 hours. Looks like it blew F101, the same fuse I replaced on purchase. I replaced it again and it looks like it blew immediatly. It also appears that F100 is blown.


So, XY monitor gurus, what are the implications for this? I'm up to a cap kit, basic rebuild but I am seeking the wisdom of those that have been here before.

Saltbreez

PS: see Tempest troubles in the general repair section.

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php
 
You might have bad chassis mount transistors. You can unplug the cables that go to the transistors and test them with your meter in diode mode. This is the easiest way to test them since unplugging the connection isolates them for this test. You can just use your meter on the pins of the connecter you unplugged. You should get the results as outlined below for each test.

Edit: And nice f'ing monitor... That thing looks near new!

NPN (2N3716) Test on connector at Pin positions 1, 3, 4 of J100, J600, J700
===========================================================================

Test #1
-------------------
Red -> Pin 3
Black -> Pin 4

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #2
-------------------
Red -> Pin 3
Black -> Pin 1

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #3
-------------------
Red -> Pin 4
Black -> Pin 3

Result: Open

Test #4
-------------------
Red -> Pin 1
Black -> Pin 3

Result: Open

Test #5
-------------------
Red -> Pin 1
Black -> Pin 4

Result: Open

Test #6
-------------------
Red -> Pin 4
Black -> Pin 1

Result: Open



PNP (2N3792) Test on connector at Pin positions 5, 6, 7 of J100, J600, J700
===========================================================================

Test #1
-------------------
Red -> Pin 6
Black -> Pin 5

Result: Open

Test #2
-------------------
Red -> Pin 6
Black -> Pin 7

Result: Open

Test #3
-------------------
Red -> Pin 5
Black -> Pin 6

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #4
-------------------
Red -> Pin 7
Black -> Pin 6

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #5
-------------------
Red -> Pin 7
Black -> Pin 5

Result: Open

Test #6
-------------------
Red -> Pin 5
Black -> Pin 7

Result: Open
 
Ok, I have taken the WG6101 out of the Tempest game, and removed one of the chassis PCB's. This monitor is not a pristeen as I had first thought. Look at the burnt connector; look at resistors 102 and 101, what is the purpose of this hack repair? R102 is 2 resistors soldered together in parallel, R 100 is 2 resistors soldered together in series. The trace on the bottom of R100 is completely burnt off, the lead had been fed through and soldered to the next pad. How bad is all of this?

Saltbreez

picture.php


picture.php


picture.php


picture.php
 
Ok, I have taken the WG6101 out of the Tempest game, and removed one of the chassis PCB's. This monitor is not a pristeen as I had first thought. Look at the burnt connector; look at resistors 102 and 101, what is the purpose of this hack repair? R102 is 2 resistors soldered together in parallel, R 100 is 2 resistors soldered together in series. The trace on the bottom of R100 is completely burnt off, the lead had been fed through and soldered to the next pad. How bad is all of this?

Saltbreez

That isn't bad at all. Those resistors are actually in series to add the values of two lesser resistors to be the correct value replacement. That area is the Low Voltage section of the board. All of the components in that area get removed when you do an LV2000 install. Now you can see why we say to do the mod since it is pretty common that the circuit fails and fries components in the LV circuit.

Here is my Space Duel monitor when it was fried.

IMG_0220.jpg


Here is what it looked like after removing the components and using some alcohol and q-tips to get it nice and clean.

IMG_0231.jpg


This is with the LV2000 installed. Notice the burn spot on R100?

IMG_0233.jpg


Also, the alcohol will help clean up that flux on the bottom of your board. It should clean up well once the components are out. You can then patch the trace if required once the LV2000 is installed. Not all traces are used when the LV2000 is installed so you may not have to patch it. Patching it is easy as you can just use a lead from a cap or something and solder a little bridge.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom