WG6100/Tempest faint color artifact

Considering that the noise appears the instant you turn the monitor on makes me think it doesn't have to do with the cathodes. Maybe there is some junk or obstruction around the focus grid or something causing that. Reminds me of something that happens on a ms pac man cocktail machine at the arcade I work at. When you turn the power off, a similar weird little splotch will appear in the center of the screen and will sit there for about 20 minutes after the monitor was powered down.

The way it mostly went away after some physical shock is interesting. Definitely couldn't be a bent shadow mask or the rest of the intended image would be extremely messed up.
 
Tr3vor42532 said:
Considering that the noise appears the instant you turn the monitor on makes me think it doesn't have to do with the cathodes. Maybe there is some junk or obstruction around the focus grid or something causing that. Reminds me of something that happens on a ms pac man cocktail machine at the arcade I work at. When you turn the power off, a similar weird little splotch will appear in the center of the screen and will sit there for about 20 minutes after the monitor was powered down.

The way it mostly went away after some physical shock is interesting. Definitely couldn't be a bent shadow mask or the rest of the intended image would be extremely messed up.
Click to expand...
Well it's definitely an odd issue but I'm wondering if it's a connector issue.

I'm pretty sure I was able to get it to vanish, though swapping the flyback was probably coincidence. But since it came back I think it might be something to do with the physically moving the monitor around since I put the monitor back into the machine after that initial test. I have tried a different deflection board and the issue remained so I'm certain the issue is either with the HV board or neck board.

I have noticed that the neck board is a little more loose fitting than the one on the k4600 monitor I have in my Centipede so ideally I'd wanna try a different neck board/CR24 connector to verify.
 
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Update to this, I got a Vector Labs reproduction neck board and transferred my CRT connector over to it. After getting everything hooked up and turning it on I didn't notice the blob but I also saw that the image was slowly getting bigger evenly in both the X & Y directions. Turned off the monitor, tried powering on again after a few minutes and no picture. +B measured about 30V. So sent the HV cage off to andrewb for a rebuild.

I did see that C902 was bulged before I sent it off, which from what I've read usually is a deflection board problem so still gotta do some testing on that part now to verify it won't kill the HV when it gets back.

20240803_092022.jpg
 
Alright so update, I sent my boards off to andrewB after my HV board died. Still waiting on the deflection and neckboard but @andrewb reported that he didn't see the color blob I was seeing during his testing. So I guess we'll see when they get back to me.
 
Alright, got my deflection and neck board back from @andrewb and I have vectors!
20241015_202732.jpg

Unfortunately the color blob is still there, though I did notice it got less visible as I was running it to calibrate the color guns, to the point it's not really visible at all during gameplay unless you're really looking for.

So at this point I think I'm just living with the issue. I think the theory of it being some debris in the focus grid is credible since the blob was affected by putting the screen really out of focus but since the solution I can see for that is giving the neck a good whack I'm not sure it's worth the risk of necking the tube, lol.
 
Not really an update but I had some time and took the monitor out to try giving the neck a whack if it is debris in the neck. Put the monitor face down and gave the neck a few whacks with a wooden spoon. Didn't neck the monitor but also no change.

I have noticed that the blob tends to fade after the monitor is turned on for about twenty minutes. Still there, but not really noticeable through the smoked glass.

While heading to Tennessee this weekend I did manage to find a Zenith Space Command from 1979 on Facebook marketplace, model number SL1961W9. Opened it up and the tube is a 100 degree 19VJNP22. Not planning on doing a tube swap anytime soon, since the number of tubes is only dwindling I think it's important to use every tube to the fullest now, but feels better to have a back up on hand.

20241201_193209.jpg20241201_193707.jpg

20241201_193653.jpg
 
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Are you sure the 19VNJP22 is 100 degree?

Not disagreeing. I just wasn't aware. I've seen 19VNJP22 discussed as a swap for Amplifones, so I assumed it was 90 degree. So just looking to clarify.
 
andrewb said:
Are you sure the 19VNJP22 is 100 degree?

Not disagreeing. I just wasn't aware. I've seen 19VNJP22 discussed as a swap for Amplifones, so I assumed it was 90 degree. So just looking to clarify.
Click to expand...
Hmm, I had seen it on a list of 100 degree tubes but I see the posts where it's listed as a 90 degree for an Amplifone.

I did see this post where it's the same tube used in K6400 monitors which apparently were 90 degree.

Anyone seen this vector monitor before?

Yesterday, Kalan and I picked up this monitor from an operator. We sent pictures to a couple people and they identified it as a Wells Gardner K6400. The K6400 looks roughly similar to the K6100 but the large deflection transistor have been doubled up and have their own heat sinks instead of...
forums.arcade-museum.com

So guess I thought it looked a bit shallower than it actually was, lol. Bit of a bummer but I guess I'll just keep an eye out for another one and keep this one around, still a nice set and has a tube good for an Amplifone monitor.

Might get back into and take the shield off, just verify what's printed on the glass.
 
Ok the one in the 6400 is 19VNJP22 but my set has a 19VJNP22.

So one letter off, but there is another post where a user was asking about using this tube in a 6100 swap

Wells Gardner 6100 tube swap question

I found a tube that I think might work, but I am looking for a little help as it is a little different. I picked up an old Zenith TV with the following 100 degree tube in it: 19VJNP22 The B&K rejuvinator CR guide says it uses 6.3V at the heater and CR adapter 20. I know the normal WG tube...
forums.arcade-museum.com

It's not a drop in with the connector but does look like my tube is a 100 degree.
 
Ah, my bad. I was looking at VNJP on the Amp replacement list, but you have VJNP. You're correct.

It would be nice if someone made a neck connector adapter PCB for those (that you could use to solder the VNJP neck socket to a stock 6100 neck board.)

However I'm sure if you took a junk 6100 neckboard, you could modify it manually to make the other neck connector fit. Just drill any extra holes as needed, to make it physically fit, and then modify the traces manually as needed.
 
i did not read through the thread but incase anyone has not figured it out this is ash on the focus grid.
 
with a razor blade and alcohol you can gently remove the tube connector and swap it for the original connector to make it plug and play
 
ArcadeJason said:
with a razor blade and alcohol you can gently remove the tube connector and swap it for the original connector to make it plug and play
Click to expand...
I'd have to check that cause the pin out might be slightly different. I know there was a whole thread where @dezbaz was making adapters for tubes like this.

ArcadeJason said:
i did not read through the thread but incase anyone has not figured it out this is ash on the focus grid.
Click to expand...
I think that's basically all it could be at this point. Though from what I've read I thought that's usually more of an issue with cocktail monitors that have been facing up for 40 years. Guess it could have happened when I was moving the machine around. Definitely in there pretty well, my attempt to knock it out didn't work.
 
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