WG6100 spot killer on after complete rebuild

ifkz

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The spot killer is on after an LV2000, bob's cap kit, and bob's extra parts kit. I have high voltage, I have neck glow, I have vector chatter. All of the frame mounted transistors were changed. All of the transistors that I can easily get to are measuring fine betwee +/- 25 to 30V DC. Spent a week rebuilding this :( Picture attached.
 

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Check the outputs from the game PCB. Also make sure none of the pins backed out from the molex connector to the monitor.

Usually when I have had spot killer, it has been a issue with the monitor not getting proper output from the game.
 
I rebuilt the power section before all of this, so the voltages to the PCB are fine. I reflowed the header connections on the PCBs, I cleaned the edge connectors, and I tried to adjust the x/y size and length with the monitor powered. No change. If I do have PCB problems, I'm in a world of hurt... :( It does play blind though, and I can see movement as the game plays through the spot killer. The vertical line moves around a little.
 
I had a 6100 look like that after a rebuild (from the dead). I skipped replacing the MPSU07 / MPSU57 transistors on the deflection board trying to save them for another project. Swapped 'em out and it worked. Looks like you already did the extra parts kit though.

Double check the frame transistor aren't shorted to the frame and check that any wires did not become detached from the sockets, that will manifest the same as bad transistors.
 
I just did one of my new Tempests this afternoon and it was ok before the rebuild. Then spot killer after rebuild. Turned out to be bad input from the board. Went though all the connectors and reseated them and it is fine now.
 
I skipped replacing the MPSU07 / MPSU57 transistors on the deflection board

I did the kit without these, so maybe that will be my next step. I didn't think they were needed, but now....
 
Err...no, I took them out and they're in the trash before I powered up...deflection PCB locations c603 & c703. Was there something I should have done?
 
No. Like I said before, they can be taken out and it will work without them (although you may have to turn the brightness up some afterwards). I just figured that if you took a part off and it didn't work properly, you may try putting them back on to see if it made any difference.

Have you tried adjusting the pots on the Tempest PCB? It's possible that the image is all scrunched up because the pots are off, but that shouldn't make your spot killer light.

What is your B+ reading?
 
I don't know how to measure B+ on this monitor yet...
Here's a picture of the chicklets, the burned one is from C603
 

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B+=167VDC should be 180VDC. Time to remove the hv cage cover...
 
Are you getting voltage swing on the X-OUT and Y-OUT tabs on the game PCB? Check with both DC and AC. The voltage should change a few volts as you measure it. Your X (horizontal) seems to be there, but not your vertical...
 
Yep, X and Y are both jumping around between positive and negative territory.
 
Sounds like you may need to bring your deflection board over just so we can verify it's working...
 
It was a fuse....a damned fuse......Damned weak fuse holder and a fuse that split in two when I touched it. I made a quick scamble through my fuse collection and found a matching 3A 250 one in slow blow. See the pic from the test mode!!!!!!!!!!

Now, why is the text tilted? The yoke is centered. The size and position pots were adjusted, but everything else is sealed with hot glue from Atari.
 

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Figured it out, some of the pots were no longer frozen with hot glue and I adjusted them to get a better picture.

Things I noticed:
The frame gets hot!
The vector chatter is almost as noisy as my Vectrex
The high voltage cage sounds like I'm sizzling bacon
 
HV cage shouldn't be that loud. Check that the wires on the back of the focus and brightness pots are pushed in all the way (they aren't soldered but plugged). Turn out the lights and make sure there is no arcing.

Yeah, Tempest monitors do give off a lot of heat...
 
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