WG6100 monitor problem again

pintech

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I have been looking for threads for this and not start another, but this is what I got.
I recapped it, replaced all frame transistors and sockets, installed LV2000 and a few other parts and got it up and running. Picture looked great. It was on around a hour yesrerday and went black.
No blown fuses, and can't find anything bad. Turned up the screen can't see anything.
It does have neck glow and the spot killer is on.
Any help is appreciated, Scott
 
It's not uncommon for vector games to fail again shortly after getting them running, if you do not overhaul all of the boards (monitor and game boards) at the same time, as once it gets running fully, any additional marginal parts can blow within several hours or days. This is especially true for boards that have not been running in a while (e.g., years).

Spot killer means deflection isn't happening, which can be either due to no signal(s) coming from the game board, and/or issues with the deflection circuits (any transistors or other active components on the deflection board, and/or the frame transistors).

Also note that anything you checked (like the frame transistors) should be checked again, as any secondary components can blow when there's a failure (i.e., just because a part is blown, it doesn't necessarily mean it was the cause of failure, and could be a byproduct). Also, it's very likely you have an issue with the game board, and it isn't putting out valid signals (which can then blow the monitor).

I have written an installation guide for setting up 6100s. It's not a troubleshooting guide, but does contain some info for how to test certain things along the way, as you power each of the boards up. You might want to check it out and go through the steps, as it might give you more info and/or insight about where the issue could be. Download here:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=404600
 
Thanks Andy,
I always appreciate your help!
Yes, Andy is right-on with his thoughts. If you have a scope or another working boardset, then that should help with boardset troubleshooting / eliminating the boardset as the problem.

What version is your deflection board? If it's a P314, does it have an Input Protection board (the little satellite board). If your boardset is bad, that IP board may have saved your monitor. That said, you still need to start with the basics to begin troubleshooting.

Scott C.
 
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Hey Andy,
If you check the voltage on these transistors
Q102 Q103 Q605 Q606 Q706 Q706
what should they be?
 
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I never measure the voltages at the transistors. I measure the LV supply voltages, and test the transistors with a DMM. Measuring things in-circuit while powered on is generally a last resort for most troubleshooting I do, if I can't find the bad component(s) with everything powered off (which I never need to do with 6100's). That's just how I do it, as its less risk than probing around a live, connected chassis, and an unobtainium (and explosive) tube.

The voltages at various points on the boards are listed in the schematics. And I think there is a table in the FAQ as well. Links to the newest versions of both are in my guide.
 
P900 I am getting
pin 1 = 25.6V
pin 5 = 24V
pin 7 = 10.8V
Voltage on the X and Y output on the pcb looks good. It looks good on the scope.
 
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What, if any, work or repairs did you do on the HV PCB? There are several common failures that can give that response (lack of 180v, as Andy noted).

Scott C.
 
I rebuilt it with the HV kit from Ian Kellogg along with the rest of the monitor kit. LV2000 installed with all new frame transistors and sockets. It was working fine for a few hours. I am going back over the HV board tomorrow.
 
The first few hours are the most critical when testing a rebuilt monitor, as that's often how long it can take for new parts to burn up and fail, if something isn't right to begin with. It's also when old parts can give out, if they were still technically working before the rebuild, but then fail under the stress of being powered up at full blast again.

You'll want to check your work to make sure you put all of the parts in all of the proper places, and with the proper orientations. People often mix up D902 and ZD902, and other parts in the HV cage, where it can be easy to misread the component numbers (e.g., just because the number is next to a part, that doesn't always mean it corresponds to that part.) Sometimes you need to also look at the direction that the printing is in (relative to the part), and what other nearby parts the numbers could correspond to. If there is any uncertainty, you can always cross-check with the parts list in the manual.
 
It likely won't look suspect. Zener diodes (of which there are a few in the HV cage) often don't give any measurable indication of failure, aside from them just not working.

They can measure ok as diodes (e.g., with a diode test on a DMM), but the Zener function can still be failed, which you can't test unless you build a custom circuit to do so. It's easiest to just replace them.
 
Ok,
Thanks Andy I'll replace it and try again.

Andy is right about the zener diodes. Also, look at the resistors around T901, such as R917 and R920. I also recommend pulling T901 and measuring ohms for both windings. These can often look fine or even test well enough in circuit.

Scott C.
 
Can I get the B+ voltage not having the correct voltage at pin 7 on J900? I have voltage on pin 1 at 26V, but pin 7 is about 10V.
 
Can I get the B+ voltage not having the correct voltage at pin 7 on J900? I have voltage on pin 1 at 26V, but pin 7 is about 10V.



No, but it's hard to tell what's happening if you're measuring pin 7 with the HV cage connected.

You want to test the deflection board's LV section without the HV cage attached first, to see if the LV section is putting out insufficient voltage, or if the voltage is being dragged down by something in the HV cage once it's connected.

See the 'Testing your work' section of the LV2000 manual for instructions on how to test the LV section separately:

http://vector-repair.com/lv2000is.pdf
 
FIXXED !!!!! Thanks for the guidance.
It was the leg of the diode on the LV2000 board.
The leg didn't pick up the solder to connect it to the board to carry the -26 volts to pin 6.
It worked fine when I installed it, but lost connection.
Thanks Again.
 
Yeah, that's not uncommon. The solder often doesn't like to stick to those diode legs, as well as that solid core wire that comes with the LV2000s. It helps if you scuff up the ends with a file or sandpaper before soldering, to get it to stick better. I actually replace the wires with stranded silicone wire, which has less of a tendency to pull out of the joints.

Anyway, congrats on the fix.
 
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