WG V1001 capping, how exactly do you remove the chassis??

mecha

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WG V1001 capping, how exactly do you remove the chassis??

ok, I figured out removing the pushpins, those were easy, but all those weird headers with wires soldered underneath, what's the best way to pop those out? I only ask because there's ONE (of 7 total right?) cap that I can't get to because the metal frame is in the way.

probably going to need some assistance later hooking everything back up... this Space Invaders Deluxe cab I got last year had everything disconnected on the monitor.
 
caps

i did one of these earlier this year and as i recall the bob roberts cap kit had one cap that mounted under the chassis frame, but there is actually two so i went to radio shack and replaced the other one also since i was underneath there. i had a seam on the cocktail cabinet that needed to be reglued and clamped so i took the top off with the monitor attached at the hinges and tipped it upside down and replaced them. i desoldered and rewire wrapped all the components on the post then resoldered them all. after doing all that work next time i think i would cut the component out and retwist and resolder i think would be much quicker and easier as long as you are putting all new solder on the joint. i have a working original si cocktail if you need any pictures or help connecting stuff. hope this helps
 
I think you're asking how to remove the PCB from the chassis. if thats the case then you just have to gently lift the pcb away from the chassis and those pins will slip out of the sockets. I use a flathead screwdriver to get under there and then lift it as evenly as possible so I do not twist the board to much.
 

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ah ok I wasn't sure, that's what I was leaning towards, cause I got it to lift a little bit, I just didn't know what those pins were made of. does the contact between the header pins and those other ends mounted to the PCB ever really go bad? I gave the whole thing a simple green bath last night, just letting it sit for a couple more days after I dried 97% of it out.

nexxt hurdle's going to be what connects where. I got 4 wires, like a green a black a red and something else and I don't know where they all go. lol
 
I haven't had any monitors where the pin connectors were bad but I guess they could. I'd say it's unlikely that's going to be your issue.

The wires sound like the four that connect to the yoke, red, green, black and yellow. There should be a corresponding color dot on the yoke that tells you what wire goes where.
 
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going to pull one of these out soon, do you have to separate the board from the metal to access the caps and other parts?
 
going to pull one of these out soon, do you have to separate the board from the metal to access the caps and other parts?

yeah, there's a cap or two in a spot that the PCB overlaps the metal. I might get around to trying this later, it's seriously like 8 caps in total lol.

I'm guessing those are yoke wires yeah, I'd have to look at the tube, might pull that next just to give it a bath. cab's pretty solid, I heard it play, but nothing out of the monitor cause everything was disconnected. I hope nothing was damaged from the previous owner powering it up like that.
 
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