WG U3000 p756 power board issues..Help!!

RealCheetahz

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Hi all,
I have a deluxe Cruis'n World cab with 30" monitor running using said chassis. I had a pin cushion issue, i i tried adjusting pin amp after trying the usual stuff and heard spark.. monitor DEAD. Recapped it, saw small cracks in flyback, replaced with new one. Fire it up and Crickets. Searched google read all post i could find and nothing has helped.

I dont get any volts to the p150 connector, all hut one of the diode show volts coming to them, up to 80 volts a piece. Q101 shows 167volts when measured. No reading at t101. I have a "working" u5000 chassis that i have taken parts from and put on power board tgat match. Some of the resistors were open so i swapped those, same with u101. Still nothing helps.

I am getting no readings at d107, it seems problem is on that side of board. I willbe replacing c106 today. Any and all thoughts would help greatly. I even printed big copies of schematics so i could go through it well.

All solder points and traces look good. Thanks in advance!!
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Oh the little black box does get warm if power left on for few min.
 
crickets while hooked up to the monitor board will probably signify a blown hot.
you may keep blowing it as it is doing so for a reason.

if you power that ps up without anything connected you may get a slight hiss. if you get crickets when not hooked up the monitor board then the problem is certainly in that ps pictured. I could repair, recondition and analyze both power board and main if you are interested.
GL
-Chad.
 
Thx for offer to help, but as i am want to do iften, i teach myself things like this. Because it can get lot more expensive if i send everything out for repair all the time. I'm 95% sure its problem with the power pcb.

Ill continue to work on it.. Goal is have it up and running again by Christmas.
 
You Should be able to attach a 60 Watt light bulb to the Power Supply Output for a load, then test voltage.

As part of the monitor cap kit there are caps for the power supply. I have a U3000 27" that had a dead power supply. it was the Switching transistor (on the heat-sync) that was faulty on mine. They do go bad easily.
 
You Should be able to attach a 60 Watt light bulb to the Power Supply Output for a load, then test voltage.

As part of the monitor cap kit there are caps for the power supply. I have a U3000 27" that had a dead power supply. it was the Switching transistor (on the heat-sync) that was faulty on mine. They do go bad easily.
Thx for the suggestions, I dont get any reading at the B+ pot on power board when connected to the main chassis, so it is the PB. QUESTION, the big brown Cap is 470uf 400 vw, can I put a 270uf 400v in its place? Hard to find the 470uf 400v. The temp switch is supposed to get warm when power is on correct?

I have power on first half of board, except for 1 diode on left side of board, and then no power at all past the divider.. i have power at transistor and then its like it disappears completely..
 
Thx for the suggestions, I dont get any reading at the B+ pot on power board when connected to the main chassis, so it is the PB. QUESTION, the big brown Cap is 470uf 400 vw, can I put a 270uf 400v in its place? Hard to find the 470uf 400v. The temp switch is supposed to get warm when power is on correct?

I have power on first half of board, except for 1 diode on left side of board, and then no power at all past the divider.. i have power at transistor and then its like it disappears completely..

as far as the cap goes, you can go up, but not down. if that's the big filter cap, I suppose you can do a dirty fix of running two 270 uf/400V caps in parallel (to get 540 uf) for testing purposes. otherwise I would hold out until you get a proper replacement.
 
yeah i stock them but they are definitely the most expensive filter caps i can think of. let me know if you need them
 
I now have volts coming throuhh entire board, however both leads on the p150 connector that goes to the main board show 70.1vdc. I believe i read somewhere and seems according to schematics that one should be 22vdc and other 119vdc.. granted 70+70=140.. i am now going over main board to make sure everything on that is good to go. Any thoughts on the vdc readings welcomed.
 
Was this ever resolved ? I have a dead u3000 on my hands now and would love to see those schematics you have
 
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