WG K7500 Question

Mupes

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Just picked up a Golden Tee 2005 Fore playing blind. Thing has been HUO nearly its whole life. Probably the cleanest game I've ever seen - inside and out.

Has 27" monitor - chassis is a 7500. No visible neck glow. Seems to be a faint ticking sound when powered (freq of ticking about 2x/sec) - faster and not a loud as when my Polo was in power supply shutdown, but somewhat similar. I see there's no iso xformer. 120V is getting to the chassis, but I noticed the green ground pin in one of the 3-pin Molex (L, gnd, N) connectors feeding it is not connected. Was this done on purpose and could this be related? Is there one of those cool step-by-step t-shooting charts for this chassis? Recommended next steps hereby solicited! Thanks in advance...
 
your H.O.T is probably bad check it.
and look for cracks on your fly if it has any replace it.

black lead on the center pin and red to both out side legs.
if you get a short its bad replace it and try again.

also cap it wile you have it out. the caps on those chassis are crap.

also the 7500 does not need an iso.

Peace
Buffett
 
Replace the fly also.. As its as crappy as the caps!
Just remember to take pictures of how the black wire is wrapped around the fly. You may need to wrap it differently when u replace it. I used an alligator clip instead of soldering it down, easier to move the wire around to test it. Pm me if you have questions. As I just fixed one of these
 
ticking symtom on those means your power supply is drawing more current than it was made to provide to the entire chassis. sometimes the problem is directly in the power supply section, sometimes its something shorted outside of it like the HOT.
good luck!
-Chad.
 
Thanks for the replies. I kinda suspected the HOT (only because I swapped the HOT and the flyback on my Polo and that did the trick). I'm kinda surprised to hear the cap kit recommendation - sounds like the "standard party line." This monitor is only 7 or 8 years old and the chassis barely has a spec of dust on it having been HUO. I've got (2) tube TVs older than this thing. Would the caps really be bad?

BTW, what's the part on HOT? Anybody have a flowchart w/out violating copyrights? Thx
 
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yea those models got a bad batch of caps. they were the cheapest wells could get at the time.

everyone i repaired had allot of bad caps on the chassis and they all looked new.

i wont repair one without doing a full cap out.

do it now and you wont have to worry about it later.

Peace
Buffett
 
you should yes.
but if you get ant snow/interference/feedback in the image you may need to disconnect it.

Peace
Buffett
 
The HOT is C3688, which crosses to an NTE 2354...

EDIT - For repair, check my signature...
 
The HOT is C3688, which crosses to an NTE 2354...

EDIT - For repair, check my signature...

I've never heard of a transistor with "C" ref des. Is the manual I found bogus? There's no transistor (or cap for that matter) listed as C3688.

Where on the chassis is it located? This chassis may end up coming your way :)

EDIT: Per the manual, the HOT ref des IS Q704 - the parts listed is 2SC3688 - that helps de-mystify things a bit!
 
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I've never heard of a transistor with "C" ref des. Is the manual I found bogus? There's no transistor (or cap for that matter) listed as C3688.

Where on the chassis is it located? This chassis may end up coming your way :)

EDIT: Per the manual, the HOT ref des IS Q704 - the parts listed is 2SC3688 - that helps de-mystify things a bit!

yes, the full part number is 2SC3688, although the actual part usually just has C3688 on it...
 
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