WG K7193 ghost lines?

wonkizzle

New member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
52
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
Hey guys, I just had a cap kit and flyback replaced earlier this week on my MVS 4 Slot, and while the colors and picture look phenomenal now, I see an issue with the left side of the screen. These strange ghosting lines that go from top to bottom. Two of them are very prominent, and one that is too faint to care. Can someone help me to understand what might be happening here?

32ppOlh.jpg
 
Those are known as "jail bars" and are normally a sign of needing a cap kit. Did you replace ALL the caps or just the main ones?
 
Went through every single one of them. Bought a kit and went to town. You think one of them was bad, or installed incorrectly? I don't know which one it could possibly be, but I don't imagine its easy to determine?
 
Went through every single one of them. Bought a kit and went to town. You think one of them was bad, or installed incorrectly? I don't know which one it could possibly be, but I don't imagine its easy to determine?

Including the filter cap? I'm not sure off hand which one it would be. Have you done the proper flyback/color adjustments? Just curious.
 
Does your neckboard have C204 (4.7 mfd @ 160V)? For some reason the new flybacks are causing this with the chassis that don't have C204 on the neck board. If you do have a neck board that has C204 try changing the value a little bit.

If you don't have C204 try adding one. Positive side of C204 goes to the common point of R207. R208, and R209. Negative side goes to ground.
 
Last edited:
Here is a pic of the neckboard. What do I need to do here? I dont notice any burning or expansion or anything, so what needs to be replaced?

FlGSHv0.jpg
 
Take out the ceramic disk capacitor C204 and install an Electrolytic polarized capacitor. Should have been one in your cap kit. It would have been a 4.7 mfd@160 volt. If not get a 22 mfd@160 volt radial cap and install it where you took out the ceramic cap. Making sure the positive lead is common with the three resisitors and the negative lead goes to ground.

Ed
 
Ok, so I replaced that cap, and it has gotten a lot better, but its still there. Its so faint though, that you cant even tell unless you're looking for it, so im okay with leaving it be. Thanks for all the help guys! Much appreciated.
 
shit, you're supposed to get rid of the disc caps and put the electrolytics in?

I think I kept all those caps from my kits
 
Replacing ceramic cap c204 with a 22uf 160V worked for me as well on a 25" K7000 P538 chassis that came to me DOA. I found r103 cracked and reading open, two rectifier diodes shorted, shorted HOT, shorted VR and shorted C38. After I replaced all of the above and did a cap kit and new flyback it fired right up, but had horrible jail/shadow bars on the left side. Replacing c204 made them disappear! Thanks to whoever figured this out!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0425.jpg
    IMG_0425.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG_0426.jpg
    IMG_0426.jpg
    931.6 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_0427.jpg
    IMG_0427.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 12
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom