WG K7000 series dead. WWYD?

yeah, they arent cheap there at 'da shack

fyi if you plan on doing more and more monitor work in the future i suggest you buy your caps in bulk from bob..

i organized them all in 2 plastic organizer things, i try to keep 5 of each "in stock" at all times that way i got em..

hell, that reminds me... time to reorder....
 
I finally got in my Bob Roberts order, and am rebuilding this chassis slowly but surely. I only have time to do a few caps a night, so it is going to take a bit.

I did notice looking last night that the flyback has pretty long cracks stemming from the focus knob, and a few small ones stemming from the screen knob. I think it is a safe bet it is the culprit then, right?

I'm still going to replace everything before firing it back up. I'll keep all the other components (sans flyback) as backups for my other 2 K7000 monitors.
 
A cracked flyback really needs to be replaced, though you might be able to get some more life out of it by filling the crack with silicone. However, it sounds like your flyback is more severely cracked than any I have come across. I'd replace it.
 
Oryk Zinyo said:
A cracked flyback really needs to be replaced, though you might be able to get some more life out of it by filling the crack with silicone. However, it sounds like your flyback is more severely cracked than any I have come across. I'd replace it.
Click to expand...

I got a deluxe kit from Bob Roberts, so it is getting replaced. Bob was cool and shipped fast, but I must say I am a bit depressed that I didn't get any moon pies. Maybe it was because I was a first time buyer.
 
I committed myself to finishing this tonight, and got all the way to the HOT and regulator as the last things. Wouldn't you know that I can't find that dag gone tube of heat sink paste I bought a while back. Oh well, I'll get to it tommorrow after visiting rat shack.

I used the female molex pin idea for the red wire that connects to the neck board. Glad I read that tip here, because I would have had no clue what to do with that.

The big 2200uF - C35 I think - cap appeared to be leaking too, so that makes 2 caps that were busted and the flyback appeared busted. Hopefully this monitor turns out to be my best one once all is said and done.

P.S. Is it okay to reuse the mica insulators? Do I put heatsink paste on both sides? That is the way it was, but I just want to verify that is correct.
 
Last edited:
shardian said:
The big 2200uF - C35 I think - cap appeared to be leaking too, so that makes 2 caps that were busted
Click to expand...

If you are determining that because of some "goo" or something on the chassis next to the cap, that is an epoxy that was put there on purpose during manufacture...
 
Goo is one thing, oddball corrosion on the bottom of the cap and being slightly hollowed out around said corrosion I believe is another.

Anyways, I got it all back together yesterday and plugged it into the cab with power only. It fired right up to a blank screen! Woo hoo! There was one odd thing though: It occasionally change screen colors. It went from blue, to white, to red, etc. I thought it was supposed to stay white only when it had power only?

Later today I will replace the power supply, and put the monitor and board back in to test it completely.
 
This monitor runs absolutely beautifully now, just to close out the thread.

I do have one very minor issue though:
When the monitor fires up, the words at the bottom are not converged very well. After a while, they clear up fine. Any idea what might cause this delayed edge convergence?
 
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