WG K6100: Easy way to replace the anode cup?

Scott C

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Anyone know of an easy way to replace the rubber anode cup on a WG K6100 high-voltage transformer? I have a K6100 high-voltage transformer that I believe works, but rodents/insects ate the outer 1/3 of the rubber anode cup (not perfectly round, but round enough). Yes, I know I can replace the entire K6100 high-voltage transformer and I do have an NOS replacement on-hand, but would like to save this original if possible. In case anyone is wondering, the transformer is from a P329 HV unit.

Oh, I should note I do have an anode cup from another K6100 high-voltage transformer that died a horrible death, but the red anode wire was cut well above the transformer. I have been looking for an easy way to remove the metal pins from the end of the anode wire (under the cup), but to date have not been able to successfully remove it without causing damage).

Ideas? Thanks.

Scott C.
 
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You can just cut the tip off of the wire, swap cups, and re-strip and solder the prong clip to the wire.

The repro flybacks don't have the crimped metal tip on the anode wire. The center conductor is just soldered to the pronged clip. It's a little more flimsy, but it works fine. (And if the wire breaks, you can just resolder it.)

The cup can be slid down the wire (towards the transformer), to expose the end of the wire.
 
You can just cut the tip off of the wire, swap cups, and re-strip and solder the prong clip to the wire.

The repro flybacks don't have the crimped metal tip on the anode wire. The center conductor is just soldered to the pronged clip. It's a little more flimsy, but it works fine. (And if the wire breaks, you can just resolder it.)

The cup can be slid down the wire (towards the transformer), to expose the end of the wire.
Thank, Andy. Both the original transformer anode wire with the bad cup and the replacement anode wire and cup are originals (not reproductions), so both are crimped. Getting the original crimped prong clip off the anode wire has been my biggest challenge, since the crimp does not want to let go (on either the original or replacement).

Perhaps I am misunderstanding what you mean by "just cut the tip off the wire".

Scott C.
 
You don't really need to keep the crimped tip. The repro flybacks don't have them.

Just cut it off, pull the prong out, re-strip, then solder the center conductor to the pronged part (if you can't get it crimped back on). Lightly file the pronged part before soldering, to get the solder to stick to it easier.

You could try to keep the crimped part, if you can clean it out and bend it back into shape, and then re-crimp and/or solder it to the end of the wire. Might be tricky though. But it doesn't have to be pretty, it just needs to be electrically solid.
 
You don't really need to keep the crimped tip. The repro flybacks don't have them.

Just cut it off, pull the prong out, re-strip, then solder the center conductor to the pronged part (if you can't get it crimped back on). Lightly file the pronged part before soldering, to get the solder to stick to it easier.

You could try to keep the crimped part, if you can clean it out and bend it back into shape, and then re-crimp and/or solder it to the end of the wire. Might be tricky though. But it doesn't have to be pretty, it just needs to be electrically solid.
Thanks again and I'll try that.

Attached is a picture of what I'm working with.

Scott C.

1425786c76e6d437d4f9d6f9933edeff.jpg
 
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Yes. Cut the crimped tip off, maybe 1/4" below the end. Pull the bits of wire out of the tip using a needlenose pliers, and maybe a heat gun to soften the wire. Once the wire is out, you should be able to get the pronged part out.

You could also try bending the prongs straight, just temporarily, enough to be able to slide the rubber cup off the end of the wire, as the cups are flexible and will give a little. You can also lube them up with a thin film of silicone grease.

Then you can bend the prongs back into shape. However you need a couple of good fine pliers to do it without destroying the prongs. (I use beader/jewelers pliers, which are very pointy, with a flat face, so they don't mar up what you're grabbing like serrated ones will.)
 
You don't really need to keep the crimped tip. The repro flybacks don't have them.

Just cut it off, pull the prong out, re-strip, then solder the center conductor to the pronged part (if you can't get it crimped back on). Lightly file the pronged part before soldering, to get the solder to stick to it easier.

You could try to keep the crimped part, if you can clean it out and bend it back into shape, and then re-crimp and/or solder it to the end of the wire. Might be tricky though. But it doesn't have to be pretty, it just needs to be electrically solid.


not a single flyback model i stock has it only soldered. 100% of them have the cap crimped over them just like his originals, so not all repro flybacks are built the same.
 
not a single flyback model i stock has it only soldered. 100% of them have the cap crimped over them just like his originals, so not all repro flybacks are built the same.



Good to know. None of the repros I've purchased to date have had them crimped. (Not from you.) But they've all been fine. Ultimately it's really not a huge thing.
 
This repair was completed today and was easier than initially expected. I assumed the two pins that insert into the holes in the tube itself were soldered or somehow connected to the surrounding metal that was crimped onto the red HV wire. That was not the case and once I loosened the grip on the red HV wire, the two pins slid out with the remainder of the red HV wire. The HV wire was looped around the end of the pins a couple of times, but was not soldered to the pins.

When reinstalling everything, I did loop the HV wire around the two pins and soldered it for extra hold. I then slide the metal cap over the two pins and red HV wire, followed by re-crimping it to complete the install.

One original K6100 HV transformer saved!

Scott C.
 
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