WG k4500 Help needed

[modessitt]

Ah yes. That's what the service button does. Your test switch slides and is usually right next to it. You might need to put it in test mode first...

 

[ManiN]

Hmmm... That's missing too. There really is not circuit for testing including both the switch or the button. All I have identified on the pinout is the test switch, I'll look again, but didn't see any criteria for any other 'test' circuit stuff. Just "Service Sw" on the connector diagram, and "Test Mode" on the dip switch table. See attached.

Connector Diag:

Dip Switch Table:

 

[Dokert]

Set dip switch #3 to on, and that will put you into test. Dip bank A

 

[ManiN]

Got it. I think it didn't work before cause my black level was all whacked with that disconnected wire. Well now that I have a proper grid, I'll have a better chance at convergence. this one doesn't have a full grid, there are color bars in the center. Is there a proper procedure for center magnet convergence with those? I have a guide for full grid adjustments, but not where the center is thick color bars. Just line em up in the middle? They seem to be to the left side of the 'box' in the center in a horizontal direction. Any advice? Thanks!

 

[ManiN]

I managed to converge the screen pretty well, but noticed that the coils are difficult to adjust and several of the pots seem to adjust more than indicated on the guide. Either way, it's coming together, but a royal PITA it is for sure... After all this, I'll still be in search of a replacement as the tube has nasty burn-in... Just want a filler for now. Does smoked plastic screens help disguise burn in?

 

[Dokert]

yes it does

 

[docfrankie]

man i give yo alot of credit
those 4500 are a beast to work on
io had one and went though hell
and just like yours i replaced it due to the tube with alot of screen burn.
your looks nice but wait till you get a new one
good job i am impressed
by the way the manual on how to do the convergence and stuuf is in the galaxian manual,

 

[ManiN]

man i give yo alot of credit
those 4500 are a beast to work on
io had one and went though hell
and just like yours i replaced it due to the tube with alot of screen burn.
your looks nice but wait till you get a new one
good job i am impressed
by the way the manual on how to do the convergence and stuuf is in the galaxian manual,

yeah, I used the galaxian manual for convergence & purity.

Thanks for the kudos, it's a pain, but a real catalyist for learning.

I'll post a more recent pic of the screen tonight to show the progress. I know what you mean on new monitor vs a dino, my Arkanoid has a healthy one in it and it's so sexy compared to the old k4500.

Anybody know of a cross reference list out there for TV tube replacements i.e. this television contains this tube etc...? I know of the short one from midway for compatable tubes, but any others?

 

[docfrankie]

i would never attemp a tube swap on a 4500

the yolk is like bonded on i think

and the tube from what i remember is like very diff from GO7, 4600, 4900

 

[ManiN]

i would never attemp a tube swap on a 4500

the yolk is like bonded on i think

and the tube from what i remember is like very diff from GO7, 4600, 4900

Isn't bonded from what I can tell. But nonetheless, would probably not be worth the suck of re-converging etc.

What's most recommended source for a newer monitor? So far I'm feeling value wise would be through a project game purchase that has a good monitor in it. Seems like folks jack up the price when it's by itself. Also people don't let them go either, keep em as spares.

 

[docfrankie]

well now that happs dosnt have any more sales due to lack of tubes.
you can either
1) wait and maybe more tubes will come over and be made and cost might go down (prob wont happen)
2) buy one when your ready financially 180 plus shipping

in my opinion just do #2 ASAP, dont blow the money on another project game.
Mainly because when this tube goes you will have to get one and it will prob not be any cheaper. and even if it does the shipping will be alot higher.

 

[Robomayhem]

You have at least 3 problems that I can see from your pics.

1. Your black level needs to be adjusted. It is the blue pot on the 3rd pic.
2. Your brightness on your neck board needs to be turned down.
3. Your H Hold needs to be tweaked a hair to straighten the picture.

Digging up an old one, but I am messing with one of these K4500s, only because there is no burn on the tube.
It is going to need capped for sure, but the pic right now is really dark. So I tucked in there (Galaxian cab) to look for the "blue pot" to try to adjust it, and come to find there isn't one there! You can see where it was though. Happen to know what pot I can use to replace it?

 

[ManiN]

I'd just pick up a cap kit from Bob Roberts and slap it on there. I believe it comes with the pot and a transistor. Not expensive at all.

If you need to adjust the purity or convergence, find the galaxian manual and follow their steps to the T. It is not as easy as rotating a few rings like in newer designs...