WG D9200 with horizontal collapse

Keeleon

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I just picked up an Arctic Thunder cabinet that I have no real idea the status of. It does power on with lots of leds but no sound and a faint purple line down the screen.

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The chassis has a tag on it that says WG 2792 and it does appear to match that, but also online Ive seen this game came with a WG 9200 that also looks like it. Are those just variations on the same thing? What is the difference?

I did a brief visual inspection and noticed at least this is broken, but I'll do a more thorough inspection of the back tommorrow.
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So I found a parts list and it looks like the broken part is this

L402 COIL LINEARITY (20.5T) 009A3043-001

Does someone know what that is, what it does, or where I can find one? Is it fixable?
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Also when pulling it apart I noticed some burning on the video connector.
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But the board seems fine. Altho, the big blocky piece does look like it maybe has a broken bit at the base?
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What does this do and where do I get a replacement?
 
you probably already have the yoke plugs i sell from my website in your shopping cart..
putting a new yoke plug on if you are splicing it make sure you go heavy or properly insulate that on the horizontal portion. red/blue wires. otherwise you can cut away the old one right at the yoke terminals and solder it in whole.
ill get a coil ready and put that in stock too in a bit... you are welcome to order offsite too we can build it up through email / pms whatever.
 
Ok thats on the website now too under width coils.
known good pull

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Circled below are the parts I had to replace to regain horizontal deflection on my D9200.
 

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Circled below are the parts I had to replace to regain horizontal deflection on my D9200.
Thanks, Ill take a look at those! What is the part you have circled that just says "1 (5W)"?

Also, I found this troubleshooting sheet, and it says to check R424 and R462, but I dont even see them on this parts list.
 
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It's a 5W resistor, I think the vertical ceramic one near the flyback, Not sure why it doesn't have an R designation on the schematic.
 
I was replacing T403 (the big yellow block), and it seems that one of the pins doesn't have a pad or trace to solder to. Is this to be expected? It had solder on it when I removed it.

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Also this ceramic resistor on the neckboard cracked. Will it still work this way? I'll probably replace it anyway, I just want to make sure it looking like this won't hurt something.
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If there's no trace then it's not used. I would definitely replace the resistor on the neckboard. I don't believe it would change the resistance but it's going to have trouble dissipating heat evenly.
 
I was replacing T403 (the big yellow block), and it seems that one of the pins doesn't have a pad or trace to solder to. Is this to be expected? It had solder on it when I removed it.
View attachment 803350

Also this ceramic resistor on the neckboard cracked. Will it still work this way? I'll probably replace it anyway, I just want to make sure it looking like this won't hurt something.
View attachment 803351
what solder are you using? either it's not flowing right or you're not flowing it right.
 
So I replaced a bunch of parts I got from @arcadecup and fired it up and actually got a full screen red image that said "no signal". I realized I forgot to plug in the cable to the vga input. I powered it down plugged it all in, then when I powered it up I heard a "pop" and smelled a bit of smoke and had no image at all, not even a collapsed horizontal :( So at least Im close!

what solder are you using? either it's not flowing right or you're not flowing it right.
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This is what Im using. It seems to work fine and flow on everything else, Ive used it on a dozen fixes so far. Im guessing that part jsut doesnt have a trace? Altho I have been having some problems with pads coming up on this board and it looks like the previous person did as well. Doesnt seem very well made :/
 
So I went back through and found that I actually hadnt finished soldering a diode >.< I finished that but it still now has nothing on the screen and no neck glow and no static on the tube. Does this mean maybe the flyback is what popped? How do I test for voltage where on this?
 
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