WG D9200 Help

DogP

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Hey,

I've got a D9200 in my Police 911 2... right now it's basically dead, but it's had its ups and downs, and since I'm not too familiar with that model, I'm gonna see if I can get everything to fix all the problems at once. To start with, it was working intermittently, and going from full screen to half screen... but I pulled the chassis and found tons of bad solder joints (the flyback was barely still soldered in :p), and replaced a couple bad caps and a burnt resistor.

But now the current problems. First, it's dead... I know the flyback is bad, since it was working with just a few minor issues, and when I went to adjust the screen control, it shocked me and then went dead. So, I plan on ordering a new flyback, but unlike the older monitors I'm used to, when I turn it on, it still has neck glow, and it almost sounds like it's still doing raster. Is it likely that the HOT died as well? I checked the HV w/ my HV probe, and it looks to be putting out about 2kV... not sure if this means anything about the rest of the components.

Also, when it was working, the picture was kinda wavy... not like the hum bar wave, but the whole screen would kinda wobble, almost like the degaussing coil was stuck on or something. I'll probably order a cap kit for it when I fix everything else, but does that sound like a cap problem, or is there something else that causes that?

A couple minor problems are that the picture seemed slightly rotated, with the trapezoid adjustment I could get the top or bottom straight, but not both. The width also seemed slightly too big... with the H Width adjusted to 0, the picture was just slightly smaller than the tube in most places, except for the tip from the trapezoid. Are there any rotate adjustments, or width adjustments besides in the menu?

Thanks,
DogP
 
Get a flyback and capkit for this thing for sure.

If you later discover it doesn't remember it's programmable settings then the IC103 is bad and should be replaced. Jameco Electronics # 108839 (generic # 24C02P serial eeprom) is only 29 cents and get an 8 pin IC socket for it too (Jameco # 112206).
 
If everything else is basically good and the HOT is bad, you'll usually hear it "ticking". If you're replacing the flyback and caps anyway, replace the HOT, too....
 
Do a cap kit for shure, Check for shorted HOT (Q418) If shorted check (D417) if shorted check for open (R854)1.2 OHM 1W And (R462) 1.0 OHM 1/2w If either of those resistors are open, replace (Q413) (D424) & (Q411)
Q413 TENDS TO FAIL OFTEN REPLACE WITH A MORE ROBUST (NTE2379)

Hope this helps
 
Thanks guys... I'll pull the board today and try to see what's bad. I appreciate the insight into what to check. I hate ordering parts, then replace that and find something else bad, so if I can just order it all at once, that'd be great (although I guess I can just order the flyback, since I doubt Mouser, Digikey or MCM will have that :p).

Thanks,
DogP
 
I pulled the board and the HOT tests fine... I just ordered a new flyback, so I guess I'll see if that's the only problem. Seems kinda odd that the flyback shocking me would kill the flyback... I figured it would have taken something else out with it, but I couldn't find anything else bad, so I guess I'll just replace this and go from there.

DogP
 
Hmm... I got my replacement flyback and installed it today, but it still acts the same... everything seems pretty normal, but no HV (but there is neck glow). Any ideas?

Thanks,
DogP
 
Bump... any thoughts? Any recommended next steps for troubleshooting? Are there some voltages I should check (and where)?

Like I said... it was flakey, I fixed a bunch of solder joints, everything was good but needed an adjustment, I went to adjust the flyback, it zapped me, and now it's dead (no HV), but has neck glow and sounds pretty normal. I dunno if I zapped something else when it zapped me, or if the zap just caused something else to fry.

So... if it was in shutdown, would there still be neck glow, and in shutdown, how rapid is the clicking? I'm used to clicking at ~1 Hz or so for shutdown modes, but is that what a D9200 sounds like? I hear a slight clicking, but it's much more rapid, like the deflection chatter kinda clicking.

I'll be pulling the entire monitor shortly and bringing it to my workbench, I'm just looking for a nudge in the right direction, since I'm not very familiar with this model.

Thanks,
DogP
 
You can isolate your power supply by lifting one leg of R854 (I believe its the leg pointing towards the FBT of the monitor but I could be wrong) and put a 60W light bulb in series to ground. If the light bulb lights up check your supply voltage. Your power supply should read 170VDC.
 
Cool... thanks. I did a few things tonight. First, I got set up so I can actually work on it, with my scope, meter, and chassis pulled out and exposed :) . Looking at the schematics, I tested a bunch of test points, and like I said before, everything really seems to be working except HV.

Looking at the HV section, I found one point that should be -170V, which is only -10V, so I'm gonna look closely at that section... but I gotta get a cap kit before I dig too much farther. I've tested a lot of caps, and lots of them are still good, but there's quite a few marginal ones, and I don't feel like fighting multiple problems right now. Unfortunately, I've only seen cap kits available directly from WG, and they have a minimum order of $25, and although the D9200 kit is only $10, their other cap kits are a rip off (K7000 for $35!). So, it looks like I'll be buying 3 D9200 kits, since I don't feel like making my own kit on Digikey.

Anyway, I'm heading out of town for a few days, but if anyone has any more input, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
DogP
 
Happ should have kits for D9200s. though I'm kinda skeptical with their kits now... the K7500 kit I got had a couple wrong caps, was a nightmare comparing the ratings on each one one by one and being extremely thorough about it, and one of the caps actually blew. there were no blown caps before, and I had jailbars and all kinds of bizarre shit that are gone post-capkit, so maybe they use inferior caps. I don't know. but just a thought.

I have to recap one of my D9200s, that's gonna be a bitch. :(
 
I think I'm just gonna build my own kit... I was gonna order one from WG ( http://www.wellsgardner.com/products/details.asp?iCat=4&iSubCat=45 ), but looking at the pic, I think it's actually a pic of the kit, not just a generic image... which is why it's cheaper than the rest (notice the rest have different pics, and the expensive ones have more caps). So, there's no way I'm paying $10 for 4 caps. I've got some other stuff I've gotta order anyway, so I guess I'll just order it now.

DogP
 
Hey,

I just wanted to update this thread that I finally got this monitor working. I replaced all the caps, but there was no change. Here's a breakdown of the problems I encountered since the last update: When the flyback shocked me, that took out the HOT for the HV (Q425)... I didn't have the correct replacement, but I had one that was good enough, so I popped that in, and it worked! So, I ordered the correct replacement according to the schematic (2SC4770), as well as a cross for the one I pulled (pulled: 2SC3896, cross: 2SC3687).

When they arrived, I decided to install the 2SC4770, since it was what the schematic called for, and in the similar plastic case (the other had a metal tab, and I didn't have a mica insulator handy). So I installed that, it powered up for a second, then started clicking and HV went down... ARGH!!! I pulled it, and that had blown... it had to have just been defective, but putting the other back in didn't fix it, so it blew something else >_< . That ended up being R854 that blew. Once again, I had something similar, but not exact, so I tried replacing it, and this time installed the 2SC3687 with a mica insulator, and it came up perfectly again. So, I ordered that resistor (gotta love $2.41 First Class mail shipping from Digikey), popped it in today, and EVERYTHING WORKED!

Of course it had to get a couple last jabs in... the monitor needed to be degaussed BIG TIME when I put it back in the cab, and when I was adjusting the monitor, the red went out, but only in the video... it was still there in the menu, so I wiggled the input connector and it went and came back. So, I pulled the interface board and resoldered the connectors, and everything's working again! Man... they had some of the worst solder joints on this chassis.

Anyway.......... WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!

DogP
 
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