WG D9200 Help Needed - Horizontal Width Issue

act420

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I need some help diagnosing the monitor in my GT Complete. It is a WG D9200. The picture is only about 5 inches wide and will not fill the screen. I have attached a pic. I do not want to replace all the caps. Can someone please point me in the direction of what could be causing this(specifc caps that could cause this so I only have to replace a couple). Also, could the horizontal output transistor or the horizontal width coil possibly cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If it is a simple fix I would like to repair it, but if it's going to be a lot of work I will probably just buy a used chassis.
 

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I know you don't want to hear it... but you need to bust out a cap kit on that. Bob Roberts kit includes like 12-14 of the main caps... or you can go to Zanen and they'll send you 69 caps... which STILL isn't all of them.

No one will work on a D9200. I know this from experience. The caps WG used were garbage... and often times there are IC problems, etc. Since you get a picture, I'm fairly confident a cap kit will rectify your issue.
 
I agree. (there are like 74 caps btw). You could always pay me about $75 + shipping to replace them for you (labor + caps), but I can't test it before I send it back....
 
most people try to adjust the pic by the sattelite board for width....but I believe there is a pot in the middle of the board that adjusts the width as well....give it a try
 
I have the same problem after a repair...
It was dead (faint click)
R804 was open (replaced)
It turned into a clicker

These were replaced
D417
D424
Q413
R462
R854
It now powers fine with a 5 inch horizontal.... everything else is fine

Any thoughts?

Q411 OR IC404... are they suspects?
Thanks!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
I have the same problem after a repair...
It was dead (faint click)
R804 was open (replaced)
It turned into a clicker

These were replaced
D417
D424
Q413
R462
R854
It now powers fine with a 5 inch horizontal.... everything else is fine

Any thoughts?

Q411 OR IC404... are they suspects?
Thanks!!!!!!

And this is after capping it? Remember, Wells used absolute crap el cheapo capacitors in this model and quite a few of them are probably bad.
 
I have the same problem after a repair...
It was dead (faint click)
R804 was open (replaced)
It turned into a clicker

These were replaced
D417
D424
Q413
R462
R854
It now powers fine with a 5 inch horizontal.... everything else is fine

Any thoughts?

Q411 OR IC404... are they suspects?
Thanks!!!!!!

Ic404 would be not q411.

Measure the voltages on Ic404
Heres voltages of a working ic;
Ic404 needs to output @ pin 6, A square wave @ 18v's P~P voltage.
Ic 404 pin1; 2.4v DC pin2; 2.5v pin3; .2 pin4; 1.8v pin5; 0. ground pin6; 7.7v pin7; 20v pin8; 5.v
Things to check;
adding to your list,Check connections on C438,check or change Q418,R424 are good
Q404,D426,check R415,Check C472,replace Q414
And those 1 watt resistors R478,R479,R480 solder in good.
Vr402 Horizontal width sub pot,confirm it has a good ground on pot.
Did you find r462 open?
Whats the B+ voltage 170?
HV correct? if you got a HV probe

Heres a small cap list
C828 2200/25v
C823 470/25V
C827 470/ 50V
C847 470/25V
C820 10/50V
C806 1/50V
C814 10/ 50V
C813 10/ 50V
C810 220/35V
C844 4.7 /400V
C838 220/16V
C839 10/250V
C834 100/16V
C832 100/16V
C329 100/16V
C423 4.7/ 400V
C417 22/250V
C447 10/250V
C415 1000/16V
C414 220/16V
C904 47/50V
C901 10/50V
C907 100/ 50V
C452 47/ 50V
C445 47/ 50V
C415 1000/16V
C466 470/ 25V
C451 10/250V
C314 2200/16V
C306 2200/ 25V
C308 220/ 50V
compare to list what you remove from chassis is the same
voltage may change to higher in some case's.
A recommended list just to be up and running.
A complete restore list consist of a few more caps etc.
If you don't want to tackle it send it to me for 100 or less and i will just fix it
or send it back unrepaired then you can try someone else,if you like.
Just pm me for details.
 
It lives..... (the evil d9200 was defeated!) Thanks for everyone's help.... I'll post the log tomorrow as I am beat right now....
 
Here's the log:
1.) It was dead (faint click)<<< must have been degauss relay not fully powering
2.) checked the following items: (and replaced JUST in case)
(REPLACED)Q401 TRSTR NPN KSC1845-F 086X0385-001
(REPLACED)Q425 TRSTR NPN 2SC4770 086X0392-001 NTE2324
(REPLACED)Q418 TRSTR NPN 2SC5144 (TOSHIBA)
(REPLACED)413 FET IRF644A
(REPLACED)414 FET 2N7000
(REPLACED)d424 DIODE 1N4148
3.) Checked power supply and found R804 to be open and replaced it
3.) Set then powered on for a sec and when into protection (click, click, click)
4.) Realized I forgot to check D417
5.) D417 was shorted so I replaced it.
6.) I found that powering the set with D417 shorted and R804 replaced caused R854, R462 and Q413 to be damaged.
7.) After replacing the above the set powered on with a 5 inch horizontal...
8.) After going over the unit again I decided to pull Q414 and compare with a new and found it to be bad as well.
9.) After replacing Q414 again...set then powers on fine.
I have learned a lot from this repair and expect WHEN it happens next time to cut the repair time in half and hopefully replace only the parts needed.

I also bought a capkit but have not used it yet... I did check a few caps here and there as per the suggestions but found nothing close to bad... This makes sense as the set has less than 50 hours on it..
The other thing that made this difficult is I did not remove the tube from the cabinet as it is a royal pain to do so and I am lazy.... I basically troubleshooted it un-powered... I fully realize this is NOT the best and most efficient way to do it but hey... I got lucky!

Thanks for the help!
 
Here's the log:
1.) It was dead (faint click)<<< must have been degauss relay not fully powering
2.) checked the following items: (and replaced JUST in case)
(REPLACED)Q401 TRSTR NPN KSC1845-F 086X0385-001
(REPLACED)Q425 TRSTR NPN 2SC4770 086X0392-001 NTE2324
(REPLACED)Q418 TRSTR NPN 2SC5144 (TOSHIBA)
(REPLACED)413 FET IRF644A
(REPLACED)414 FET 2N7000
(REPLACED)d424 DIODE 1N4148
3.) Checked power supply and found R804 to be open and replaced it
3.) Set then powered on for a sec and when into protection (click, click, click)
4.) Realized I forgot to check D417
5.) D417 was shorted so I replaced it.
6.) I found that powering the set with D417 shorted and R804 replaced caused R854, R462 and Q413 to be damaged.
7.) After replacing the above the set powered on with a 5 inch horizontal...
8.) After going over the unit again I decided to pull Q414 and compare with a new and found it to be bad as well.
9.) After replacing Q414 again...set then powers on fine.
I have learned a lot from this repair and expect WHEN it happens next time to cut the repair time in half and hopefully replace only the parts needed.

I also bought a capkit but have not used it yet... I did check a few caps here and there as per the suggestions but found nothing close to bad... This makes sense as the set has less than 50 hours on it..
The other thing that made this difficult is I did not remove the tube from the cabinet as it is a royal pain to do so and I am lazy.... I basically troubleshooted it un-powered... I fully realize this is NOT the best and most efficient way to do it but hey... I got lucky!

Thanks for the help!

Good Job!
Maybe you could wait for the next repair
to replace any caps. If it looks good.
 
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