WG 9200? What is this crusty goo?

Humdinger

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I believe this to be a WG 9200 in an original Midway War Gods cabinet. Please correct me if I'm mistaken. It came from a building infested in rodents. Please tell me that the brown layer on this chassis is not crusty pee. If it is, might my best option be to dispose of it forthwith?
 

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It's crap. Sorry.

The best way to deal with this is remove the chassis from the game, set it on the ground, hit it with Simple Green, wait around 15 minutes, and then hit it with the spray nozzle on the garden hose.

Repeat until it's gone.

Rinse with DI water.

Leave in the sun 2 days to dry or so.
 
It's crap. Sorry.

The best way to deal with this is remove the chassis from the game, set it on the ground, hit it with Simple Green, wait around 15 minutes, and then hit it with the spray nozzle on the garden hose.

Repeat until it's gone.

Rinse with DI water.

Leave in the sun 2 days to dry or so.
That's my usual modus operandi, but since pee is corrosive, I didn't know if it would even be worth the trouble to try. I'll be delighted if it will clean up. I just hope it doesn't smell like a litter box when it heats up. 🤢
 
She cleaned up nice! I started to Lysol it too. Thank you Simple Green.
 

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that's a U5000

I'm a fan of that brand of Wells-Gardner terror. does it actually work?
 
Yeah man, don't just spray it, work that cleaner around several times with a paint brush and tooth brush. After several rounds, rinse with hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Let it bake outside in the hot sun for a few hours.

Jason
 
I am always amazed at how resilient this old technology is. It might need a little bit of help here and there but 40 year old technology is still chugging away like a champ and can clean it with a garden hose or in a kitchen sink, just make sure it is totally dry before powering on
 
that's a U5000

I'm a fan of that brand of Wells-Gardner terror. does it actually work?
Unknown at this point. I was about to ask y'all which chassis it was, as I have never seen one like it. It has apparently never been recapped, and some rodent chewed half the ribbon-esque cable apart, so repairs must be made before I can fire her up. The tube looked like it had never been used so maybe it's a low-hour unit.
I've never heard anything good about the U5000. Do I need to toss a K7500 in there instead?
 
Yeah man, don't just spray it, work that cleaner around several times with a paint brush and tooth brush. After several rounds, rinse with hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Let it bake outside in the hot sun for a few hours.

Jason
It got worked. It was foul.
 
Unknown at this point. I was about to ask y'all which chassis it was, as I have never seen one like it. It has apparently never been recapped, and some rodent chewed half the ribbon-esque cable apart, so repairs must be made before I can fire her up. The tube looked like it had never been used so maybe it's a low-hour unit.
I've never heard anything good about the U5000. Do I need to toss a K7500 in there instead?
K7500 label.jpg

this warning labels exists because the K7500's yoke is different than what was used with U5000, U2000, and K7400. so you can't swap a K7500 in.

read this page https://www.arcaderepair.net/wells-gardner-u5000/ then look at the NFL Blitz HOT kit PDF at the bottom. that's a list of the common failure parts that can kill the HOT. to test the HOT desolder it out and put your multimeter on diode check. red probe to the first base leg, then touch the black probe to the collector and emitter legs. if you get anything but approximately .450~ junction drops the HOT is bad, and dead shorts to either collector or emitter means it's bad.

if you've never run an isolated power supply light bulb test before this would be a good place to learn. lol the ceramic resistor in the corner R104 is rated at 10k ohm, if that's vastly out of spec then you could have other issues there. it's not the most user friendly monitor model to work on but not impossible. if you're not adept at the arts of monitor fixing there's no shame in sending it to someone else to fix.
 
Jesus! I gotta order and install the contents of all 3 of those service kits to make this POS work?? I don't mind doing it, but all those parts better make this thing last forever. Might have to break my own rule and throw a 26" Unico in there. 🤢
 
Jesus! I gotta order and install the contents of all 3 of those service kits to make this POS work?? I don't mind doing it, but all those parts better make this thing last forever. Might have to break my own rule and throw a 26" Unico in there. 🤢
if you have the resistor attached to the vertical IC heatsink or perhaps the side of the monitor tray with a plug that connects to the vertical IC +30V test point then you have the vertical sweep mod. if you're intent on running medium resolution it's not needed at all, it was intended to reduce the operating voltage for the vertical IC to prolong its life. (from 30V -> 25V, approximately) ... but it needs the full voltage for medium resolution, and I think you can damage it running it incorrectly.

the power supply kit is probably the least necessary, but I have had U5000s in the past where R108 failed. never MOSFET failures, but some U5000s the traces can break to the MOSFET which is an obvious sign when the monitor doesn't power up at all.

the HOT kit really was like a shotgun parts replacement deal to fix a dead U5000. just test Q703 (2SC2482), R760 (470 ohm 1/2W) (this is usually failed if Q708 shorts), R765 (33k ohm 1/2W), Q708 (2SC2482), and the HOT Q704 (2SC3686 originally). I know people swear by the FJL6920 as the HOT replacement part like it's indestructible but I can tell you if any of the aforementioned parts are bad those can short out and die too. do not buy 2SC3688s, for whatever reason the modern replacements are all prone to near instant failure and I don't understand why they're still being sold.

I encourage looking up videos at https://www.youtube.com/@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair to show how to light bulb test U5000 or U2000 but the same procedure works for K7400 and K7500 also except they have a fancier part for connecting the power supply to the deflection side. verifying the power supply is good is a key step because I'm starting to see failures of R120 and D107 (which I think is what kills R104 I mentioned above). the 10k 10W replacements have a longer resistor and getting the legs to connect with the holes is a little bit of a challenge but a higher wattage part here will last longer. these have been used for about 30 years now, I don't think we'll get another 30 out of them but it would definitely be something if we did. lol
 
I will follow your sage advice to the letter. Thanks! If I have any trouble out of this dog in the future, a yoke swap and a K7500 may be in order. The tube is just too nice.
 
This one has the vertical sweep mod but is running med res for War Gods. Reckon I ought to reverse it? Also, R728 cooked itself off the board, so I guess that's at least one reason why this thing was parked many years ago.
 
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