WG 7200 Series Monitor Help

spoonelli

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Turning my attention to the monitor in my new-to-me dynamo cab as part of a full re-wire...hopefully you guys can assist on a few things.

This is a WGE1972-H0GS39L.

- Thanks mecha/buffett Cabinet still has isolation transformer attached - I was under the impression this monitor doesn't need it...should I remove that from the power circuit?

- Thanks security0001 White gunk on board i believe is adhesive and not caps - monitor is working fine albeit a bit on the dark side - slight burn in tube but only because I'm paying attention. Haven't played with pots yet.

- Thanks security0001 Series ID: WG's SN website isn't working for me - can you guys tell me which monitor I have in the series? SN is WG6094001, manf. date Jun 2003. Flyback has black pots. Took a board pic to hopefully help.

- Found on 7203 schematics - ordered parts from mouser and will adjust pinouts to map appropriate -vsyncs Molex connector from a standard Jamma harness kit doesn't seem to match what's wired up currently. see pic. most harnesses run a single five-wire molex. Is there a converter available I should look out for? Can't seem to ID one but maybe i'm looking in the wrong places...

There's nothing "wrong" right now with it - the green is driving a little hot after i swapped a namco classics board for a new 60-in-1 for testing, but not sure if it's the board voltage or the pots (I'll get to fiddling with that soon, though - reason i haven't was getting popping noise out of the cabinet when i try to do a voltage test on the board and there are a bunch of severed grounds in the cab... until i do a re-wire I want to be careful...) Also it's a bit dim under a slight tinted glass, but again, being careful about poking until i have confidence in the wiring being safe.
 

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i think you have a typo on your number and its a K7201 chassis.
This is a WGE19782-H0GS39L. is what you typed but it probably should be WGE1972-H0GS39L which is a 19inch K7201.
 
down to the last few items on the iso transformer and caps!
 
there was a make of tubes on the 7200 that were pretty crappy. I wanna say the Chungwah? or maybe Orion?

the green can be high. if the chassis wasn't capped or whoever had the monitor before you putzed around with the adjustments, it can just be high. if you find your color emissions aren't satisfactory, you can try turning each color up until it develops a tint of red, green or blue, and then back off until the tint goes away. you should achieve decent white balance this way. I suggest doing it against a black background. then turn the brightness up until you see grey dots in the black background and turn it back down until it's absolute black. lastly, you can dial the contrast up until it starts to smear, you back off until the smearing goes away. if it's one color smearing, you turn that color down at the neckboard until it goes away. if this doesn't help you will probably need the tube rejuvenated.

this model came with a switching mode power supply, meaning it takes straight AC for power. the isolation transformer isn't necessary. I'm sure an expert like Buffett will encourage you keep it, I personally don't think it'll make any difference. worst case scenario is you get a ghosting effect in the image; you can eliminate this by bridging the logic and earth grounds at the power supply. while on that subject, read the PSU guide in my signature.

and lastly, the white gunk was used for tacking the capacitors in place. there was an exact explanation for this, I don't remember what now though. it was probably for transporting them, so the caps don't wobble around and accidentally break off.
 
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there was a make of tubes on the 7200 that were pretty crappy. I wanna say the Chungwah? or maybe Orion?

the green can be high. if the chassis wasn't capped or whoever had the monitor before you putzed around with the adjustments, it can just be high. if you find your color emissions aren't satisfactory, you can try turning each color up until it develops a tint of red, green or blue, and then back off until the tint goes away. you should achieve decent white balance this way. I suggest doing it against a black background. then turn the brightness up until you see grey dots in the black background and turn it back down until it's absolute black. lastly, you can dial the contrast up until it starts to smear, you back off until the smearing goes away. if it's one color smearing, you turn that color down at the neckboard until it goes away. if this doesn't help you will probably need the tube rejuvenated.

this model came with a switching mode power supply, meaning it takes straight AC for power. the isolation transformer isn't necessary. I'm sure an expert like Buffett will encourage you keep it, I personally don't think it'll make any difference. worst case scenario is you get a ghosting effect in the image; you can eliminate this by bridging the logic and earth grounds at the power supply. while on that subject, read the PSU guide in my signature.

and lastly, the white gunk was used for tacking the capacitors in place. there was an exact explanation for this, I don't remember what now though. it was probably for transporting them, so the caps don't wobble around and accidentally break off.


FYI: the factory i worked for way back had a wave soldering table and all large components like those caps were glued down to keep them upright and not tipping while going through the wave soldering table so i assume the same with WG holds true here.
 
as for the ISO in the cab,

i would leave it in there, you never know, you could change the monitor one day that needs one.

it also will not hurt to have the monitor isolated from the rest of the power.
this way if your marquee or something else shorts, it will not take out the monitor.

Peace
Buffett
 
as for the ISO in the cab,

i would leave it in there, you never know, you could change the monitor one day that needs one.

it also will not hurt to have the monitor isolated from the rest of the power.
this way if your marquee or something else shorts, it will not take out the monitor.

Peace
Buffett

How does a marquee light shorting take out the monitor?
 
as for the ISO in the cab,

i would leave it in there, you never know, you could change the monitor one day that needs one.

thx! - seems to be no harm in having it in - was more concerned of it being an issue if there were two ISOs in the circuit.
 
there was a make of tubes on the 7200 that were pretty crappy. I wanna say the Chungwah? or maybe Orion?

I've got the Orion tube. Color reproduction isn't terrible overall - would love to get a bit more boost out of it given that it's behind a tint and i think if i get the green drive down i can push it to where it wants to be. A rejuve is out of my skill set right now and (unless there's someone local to southeastern PA that wouldn't mind a house call?), it's probably not worth the effort to ship it out given that it's more than good enough for now...

as i drive more brightness i get the green bleed, which wasn't an apparent issue on the old namco board. I have some voltage investigations to still perform - i know the sound pitch was a bit odd/high on the namco classic collection vol 2 board compared to the expectations of the orginal games (pacman and dig dug sounds appeared pitched up but not sure what they are supposed to be on that board) I'll get to fiddling with it once I'm confident in the cab wiring - new harness is on its way, now all i need is a rainy day!

Thanks!
 
How does a marquee light shorting take out the monitor?

a power spike threw the cab.

i have see it many times.

sometimes your lucky and it just hits the fuse and is an easy fix.

other times it takes out more parts.

some chassis types are more prone to it than others.

most times it is because people wire the marquee light on the same output side of the ISO witch leads to the monitor.

this is WAY more common than you would think.

it is heavily done in conversions when an operator would rip out NON JAMMA wiring harness and install a JAMMA harness with a switching power supply.

Peace
Buffett
 
Ok - one more question:

Monitor chassis ground - do i need to connect this or NOT connect this given this monitor has its own isolation transformer? Looks like there was one at one point but it was snipped off.
 
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