wg 7000 wont come on

Talsivar

Well-known member

Donor 2012, 2024
Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Messages
2,126
Reaction score
2,446
Location
Tigard, Oregon
it was working fine in my tekken cab, i took it out and put it in another cab the picture was grainy and had some lines. i put the tekken board in and same thing. so i pulled the chassis and put another one in and it wouldn't power on no neck glow, i checked the power going in and the fuse both are good. i tried a second chassis and same thing no power. i then put the original back in and it now has no power also. what else would make it not power on? 3 different chassis don't work so it has to be something else.
 
if you fuse is good then check your B+, you might have a cold solder joint from moving it around. check the big resistors and the yoke for cold solder., but check B+ first, that will tell you what direction to go.
 
next question.

did you have an iso transformer in the second cab?

looks as you do in your tekken cab, but what about the other.

other wise i would suspect cold solder joints if you have not rebuilt the chassis.

Peace
Buffett
 
thanks for the replies ,where is the b+? yes i have an iso transformer. when i first turn it on i can hear the static sound for a second but that's it no glow.
 
your B+ is can be tested at the big white resistor hanging off the side of the the chassis, one side is unregulated and the other shloud be 123vdc for 19inchers and 130vdc for 25inchers. if it powers up then shuts right off I would put my money on the volatage regulator being bad.
 
have theses chassis been rebuilt. new fly and caps??

i have seen many a K7000 in HV shutdown because of a cold solder joint.

usually R101 is the culprit IIRC.

hardly do i see one out cause of a blown VR. it happens but i see it far less then cold solder joints being the cause.

but you never know till it is checked.

Peace
Buffett
 
have theses chassis been rebuilt. new fly and caps??

i have seen many a K7000 in HV shutdown because of a cold solder joint.

usually R101 is the culprit IIRC.

hardly do i see one out cause of a blown VR. it happens but i see it far less then cold solder joints being the cause.

but you never know till it is checked.

Peace
Buffett

good point, I always assume caps have been done prior to posting a question. they will cause your monitor to turn on then shut right off. 47uf 160v is the one that causes that IIRC, I always up that one to 47uf 250v.
 
The K7000 requires operation from an isolation transformer. Be sure both cabinets have one and that it is wired correctly. What was the other cabinet? Some NBA Jam cabinets had the isolation transformer wired wrong.

The K7000 monitor chassis first came out in 1986 and was manufactured up till 1992. So you have 20 to 25 year old capacitors that need to be replaced. This could be the cause of the shutdown.
 
Good point. I always assume caps have been done prior to posting a question. They will cause your monitor to turn on then shut right off. Capacitor C57, 47uf 160v is the one that causes that IIRC, I always up that one to 47uf 250v.

I assume that fresh capacitors have been installed and the chassis inspected for cold solder joints, especially at R101.
 
your B+ is can be tested at the big white resistor hanging off the side of the the chassis, one side is unregulated and the other shloud be 123vdc for 19inchers and 130vdc for 25inchers. if it powers up then shuts right off I would put my money on the volatage regulator being bad.

What is the actual term for this resistor (chassis location)?
 
k7000r301.png



Peace
Buffett
 
R301 is the biggest wite resister on on the chassis and is on the left side of the chassis hanging on the outside and is where you test your B+

R103 is the smaller wite resister on the rite side of the chassis by the filter cap and is in the power supply section.
and is not where you test your B+

k7000bchart.png


sorry for the crude drawings i am no artist.

hope this helps explain what we are talking about.

Peace
Buffett
 
Well, I am still unclear about something and I just want to make sure we are on the same page.

You posted " ok the reading at R103 is not your B+. sorry if i misled you about that." and I am not sure how R103 was brought up and if I missed something in that post. Just a clarification because that chassis is kicking my ass. Thanks Buffett.

Talsivar, see this thread if you are still unsure about how to test the B+.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=249651
 
Back
Top Bottom