WG 6100 question

luke9511

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ok so i just finished recapping my 6100 and was wondering if anyone had pictures of how all the wires connected? thanks
 
never mind, i got it hooked up correctly but blew a cap when i pluged in the power :( is there anyone close to tennessee who can stop by and take a look?
 
Normally a cap won't blow unless it was in backwards or the wrong value...
 
Normally a cap won't blow unless it was in backwards or the wrong value...

Well it wasn't in backwards but maybe I should put the stripe on the cap facing the + symbol on the board, it was on the hv board it was a 100uf 50v cap I think, I just hope I have a extra
 
No, the two 100u 50v caps face the same direction.

Check the 6100 FAQ. It has scenarios for certain parts blowing up...
 
ok it is a 100uf 5v cap at C902 on the HV board and its the only one that blew everything else is fine and it was in the right way, could i have but the metal transistor on the metal part of the HV cage on upside down or something? would that have even cause it to blow?
 
ok i think i might know what the problem is, there is 3 holes in c902 but which ones do i put the cap in? i think this whats causing it but not sure, its the only one that is going out the faq didnt really answer my problem its just really confusing
 
If you look at the bottom of the chassis, you'll see two of the holes are connected by a trace. The reason there are three holes is for whether you put in a large cap (with wide leg spacing) or small cap (with narrow leg spacing). You want the legs of your cap to be on two holes that are NOT connected underneath....
 
well thats the way i got it so i guess its something else but what else could it be, maybe i should have traded it for something easier to work on lol but im learning to much :)
 
Well, the HV board isn't too complicated. That's the input line for the -25 volts from the low-voltage supply on the deflection board. Make sure that voltage isn't lower than about -32vdc.

If you're blowing C902 every time you power up, then the first part I would check would be R907 (2.2-ohm 2-watt). If that looks okay (and there are no solder bridges underneath from any of you rebuild work), then move on down the traces to XD901, Q902, Q901, Q903, and Q900. Also, look for any resistors that look dark in the middle and check them for shorts or opens. If all those look fine, start testing all the other transistors and diodes.

If there is an open down the line, then that could shunt more voltage through that cap then is expected, blowing that cap...
 
Well, the HV board isn't too complicated. That's the input line for the -25 volts from the low-voltage supply on the deflection board. Make sure that voltage isn't lower than about -32vdc.

If you're blowing C902 every time you power up, then the first part I would check would be R907 (2.2-ohm 2-watt). If that looks okay (and there are no solder bridges underneath from any of you rebuild work), then move on down the traces to XD901, Q902, Q901, Q903, and Q900. Also, look for any resistors that look dark in the middle and check them for shorts or opens. If all those look fine, start testing all the other transistors and diodes.

If there is an open down the line, then that could shunt more voltage through that cap then is expected, blowing that cap...

i replaced R907 and its fine, but could this be the problem? i didnt know which lead on that little white box was + and which was - so maybe if i have it the wrong way it could be causing problems?
 
could this be the problem? i didnt know which lead on that little white box was + and which was - so maybe if i have it the wrong way it could be causing problems?

Okay, that is a problem.

That "white box" is a fireproof resistor. However, it shouldn't be there. That is supposed to be C905 - a 33uF 150v axial cap (You can use radial if you don't have an axial).

Since that cap is in a parallel circuit to the C902 your are blowing, the resistor that is in there now is changing the circuit, and is probably why the cap is blowing.

BTW - that 2.2-ohm 5-watt resistor (white box) that is in that location should actually be placed in R907 (that blue resistor seen to the right just above the connector) as an upgrade....
 
Okay, that is a problem.

That "white box" is a fireproof resistor. However, it shouldn't be there. That is supposed to be C905 - a 33uF 150v axial cap (You can use radial if you don't have an axial).

Since that cap is in a parallel circuit to the C902 your are blowing, the resistor that is in there now is changing the circuit, and is probably why the cap is blowing.

BTW - that 2.2-ohm 5-watt resistor (white box) that is in that location should actually be placed in R907 (that blue resistor seen to the right just above the connector) as an upgrade....

i remember why i put it there cause the 33uf caps i got from bob roberts the leads werent long enough but the old one that was there looks like its still good so im going to solder it back on and im going to put in my last 100uf cap i hope this works and thanks for all your help mod :)

EDIT: update, i recaped with right parts and c902 is no longer going out however there is no picture at all, when the cap first went there was a loud pop and then smoke coming out of the top of the cab through the vents, could i have completely messed up the tube to where it no longer works?
 
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i remember why i put it there cause the 33uf caps i got from bob roberts the leads werent long enough but the old one that was there looks like its still good so im going to solder it back on and im going to put in my last 100uf cap i hope this works and thanks for all your help mod :)

EDIT: update, i recaped with right parts and c902 is no longer going out however there is no picture at all, when the cap first went there was a loud pop and then smoke coming out of the top of the cab through the vents, could i have completely messed up the tube to where it no longer works?

What is your B+ reading right now? Measure it where the orange wire connects to the neckboard from the HV connector. it should be +180vdc. If it's not there, or is the wrong (or right) value, that will tell us what to look at next...
 
What is your B+ reading right now? Measure it where the orange wire connects to the neckboard from the HV connector. it should be +180vdc. If it's not there, or is the wrong (or right) value, that will tell us what to look at next...

i will have to wait til tomorrow to check it as the game is in the garage right now and theres no lights in there, also i have a digital volt meter but what setting would i use?
 
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