WG 6100 no picture

docfrankie

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my 6100 has no picture
i see neck glow
the spot killer comes on for 1 sec and then goes off (this is normal)
the fuses were blown at F100 and F101
replaced them and they are fine now.
went though flowchart (not all the way need to order parts i think. lol)
flowchart attached

but my question is i dont have the spot killler on and game plays blind (known working game) it cannot be any of the frame transisitors right or the HV so the prob has to be on the deflection board.
now one resistor is testing open (was not pulled from the deflection board) but is measuring the proper ohms (how can this be too)
 

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i thought i did last night but i just checked the manual again and i didnt.
the brightness is on the neck board and i didnt touch anything on the neck board.
i touched the 2 on the hv / flyback , basicly focus and screen ones i believe.

will check on it tonight and will report back.
 
You should unplug all of the chassis mount transistor cables form the deflection PCB and test them with a multi-meter set on the diode function. It is really easy to test them this way since you can just put the probe tips on the little bit of metal that you can see exposed on the side of the connector that attaches them to the PCB.

If you get any out of the ordinary readings, you will need to check the mounting of the transistor or swap them out.



NPN (2N3716) Test on connector at Pin positions 1, 3, 4 of J100, J600, J700
===========================================================================

Test #1
-------------------
Red -> Pin 3
Black -> Pin 4

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #2
-------------------
Red -> Pin 3
Black -> Pin 1

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #3
-------------------
Red -> Pin 4
Black -> Pin 3

Result: Open

Test #4
-------------------
Red -> Pin 1
Black -> Pin 3

Result: Open

Test #5
-------------------
Red -> Pin 1
Black -> Pin 4

Result: Open

Test #6
-------------------
Red -> Pin 4
Black -> Pin 1

Result: Open



PNP (2N3792) Test on connector at Pin positions 5, 6, 7 of J100, J600, J700
===========================================================================

Test #1
-------------------
Red -> Pin 6
Black -> Pin 5

Result: Open

Test #2
-------------------
Red -> Pin 6
Black -> Pin 7

Result: Open

Test #3
-------------------
Red -> Pin 5
Black -> Pin 6

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #4
-------------------
Red -> Pin 7
Black -> Pin 6

Result: .45v to .9v

Test #5
-------------------
Red -> Pin 7
Black -> Pin 5

Result: Open

Test #6
-------------------
Red -> Pin 5
Black -> Pin 7

Result: Open
 
At this point you need to go back to the flow chart. The part on the left that starts with Check for Q102/3 collector short to chassis.

If this monitor isn't all burned to hell and worth salvaging I'd suggest rebuilding this thing with a Zanen rebuild kit and while you're at it add an LV2000.

Also look into adding a fan or two to the HV cage.
 
i already checked the shorts to chassis
there are none.

there are no burn marks anywhere.

there is like no room to put any extra fans in the cocktail cab.

and yes i will be doing a full cap kit and lv2000 to this. But with the chassis looking like new with the exception for alot of dust. i was just trying to go thgough the flowchart and see if i could at least get a picture.

thanks for the info vectorjunkie i will check them out tommorrow.

i will report back later
 
vector junkie
everything checks out perfectly within specs or is open

Next step is to check for cold solder joints on all of the header pins on the deflection board. It seems like there is almost always some of these on a non-working monitor. :)
 
i found R100 with some burn mark on it.
also R102 tests open in circuit, but it still also tests at 330 ohm too. (How is that possible)
i also found 2 headder pins with cold solder joints,
pin #1 on P100
pin #1 on P600
i will fix those asap. and touch them all while i am at it.
 
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i found R100 with some burn mark on it.
also R102 tests open in circuit, but it still also tests at 330 ohm too. (How is that possible)
i also found 2 headder pins with cold solder joints,
pin #1 on P100
pin #1 on P600
i will fix those asap. and touch them all while i am at it.

If R100 is burned, you need to go ahead and drop the LV2000 in there. No point in dropping more components in there to fail. If the mark is on the PCB and the resistor is fine, it is from a previous event. R100 is frequently burned on the boards I get that are dead.

I don't understand the open in circuit and also at 330 ohm comment for R102. Is the 330 out of circuit? or is it intermittent? Is the battery good in your meter?

Either way, I recommend just dropping the LV2000 in there. It makes it easier to fix the rest of the chassis since it will shutdown the LV output if there is a problem somewhere else on the board and help prevent more damage.

Here is a nice example... R100 toast, and R102 even got burned from R100.

IMG_0220.jpg


Removed components for LV2000 install.

IMG_0231.jpg


With the LV2000.

IMG_0233.jpg
 
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Just to get back to this thread.

I just tonight got my parts and had an hour to do some work on this.

I did Bob Roberts cap kit (without frame transistors, because eveything check out fine from Vector Junkies tests)

Placed LV2000

And it works perfectly in my working Star Wars.

This monitor is for my newly acquired Tempest cocktail, i put it in there and check it out but it seems there are some grafix probs but that is for another day and thread.

Thanks alot Vector Junkie and Moddest
You guys are awesome.

i will take some pics tommorrow and post them of the final product.

frank
 
Just to get back to this thread.

I just tonight got my parts and had an hour to do some work on this.

I did Bob Roberts cap kit (without frame transistors, because eveything check out fine from Vector Junkies tests)

Placed LV2000

And it works perfectly in my working Star Wars.

This monitor is for my newly acquired Tempest cocktail, i put it in there and check it out but it seems there are some grafix probs but that is for another day and thread.

Thanks alot Vector Junkie and Moddest
You guys are awesome.

i will take some pics tommorrow and post them of the final product.

frank

Awesome! Congrats on getting the monitor working... (In the Star Wars at least) :)

Good luck with the Tempest fix!
 
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