WG 6100 HV repair - P316

Pimpbot5000

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Documenting this here in case it's helpful to anyone. All my info is from the 6100 FAQ and scouring other repair threads.

I bought this 6100 HV unit non-working from Komodo. Upon power up there was no HV, and after a few minutes R925 smoked.

Looking more closely, T901 was swollen and leaking.
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For these symptoms, the 6100 FAQ points to Q905. I pulled that transistor. I think this is an MJE 171? If so it's the wrong part, as Q905 should be a 2N6557 NPN transistor.
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I installed an MJE340 at Q905, modifying it to accommodate the board's CBE layout, as described in a repair thread by Level42.
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I installed a reproduction T901 from Dezbaz. In addition, I added a 250ma Pico fuse in-line with R917 to hopefully protect T901 in the future. While I was at it I installed a socket and new 555 at IC901.
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I fired it up and HV was restored.
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Thanks for the great information.
I'm also restoring a failed K6100 HV unit and this info was helpful.

Happy gaming.

Scott C.
 
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Well written thread. Very well documented. I just did the very same repair to a Klov member's page. Pulled a transistor off a parts board. Sorry the transformer was bad. Did it not work?
 
Pimpbot5000, do you have the technical specs for that 250ma Pico online fuse? I'd like to add these to my rebuilds and am finding lots of specifications variance when looking for 250ma Pico online fuses. Thanks.

Scott C.
 
Instead of using a one-time-blow fuse, I install a polyfuse, which is self-resetting. It is a special type of PTC intended for applications just like this. I've been using them for almost 15 years. If you are troubleshooting the box and the polyfuse feels very warm then it is in the faulted state (it has a high resistance) and is limiting the current to a safe low level. If the polyfuse is cool then it is conducting normally (it has a low resistance).

The polyfuse (or polyswitch) that I install in the wg6100 HV box is RXEF030. This is available from many distributors such as Digikey RXEF030HF-ND.

I modified the OP's photo (hope you don't mind) to show where I mount the polyfuse. I cut the trace (under the topside jumper) shown by the red line. I then scrape off the green soldermask on the bottom to form two pads and then drill the holes using a 0.031" bit and dremel tool. The location of the holes is shown by the two red dots. The polyfuse then inserts into the two new holes from the top side and is soldered on the bottom at the new pads. This mod allows R917 to be mounted normally so it's difficult to even notice that anything has changed. The polyfuse will protect T901 very well in the event of a 555 timer failure or driver transistor failure. The advantages of the polyfuse are that it's easy to tell if it is tripped (it's warm or the voltage across it is high) and as soon as you replace the faulty 555 chip or transistor, it's good to go. You won't ever have to replace a fuse.

I would have just taken a photo of one of my modified HV boxes but they all have covers on them and I didn't want to have to take one off.

Bill B.
 

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Pimpbot5000, do you have the technical specs for that 250ma Pico online fuse? I'd like to add these to my rebuilds and am finding lots of specifications variance when looking for 250ma Pico online fuses. Thanks.

Scott C.

You should probably go with Bill's suggestion, as he is the guru, but I used this part from Digi-Key.
 
You should probably go with Bill's suggestion, as he is the guru, but I used this part from Digi-Key.
Yes, Bill's solution looks more elegant and a long-term fix. That said, I wonder if that part comes with an LED to denote normal or excessive voltage. Also seems like a traditional push button fuse (of the correct size) would also work.

Lastly, Pimpbot5000 your solution looks like what ArcadeShop offers, except their solution adds fuses for R901 and R907.

Scott C.
 
I wonder if that part (the polyfuse) comes with an LED to denote normal or excessive voltage.
Scott C.

No, polyfuses do not include LED models. However, there's nothing stopping you from adding an LED with small series resistor wired across the polyfuse. The resistor would have to be about 4700 ohm, 0.5W. Any generic 3mm red LED would suffice.

Bill B.
 

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Inquiring minds want to know. Did you try the transformer before replacing it? Many transformers I have in cages over the years look as bad or worse and still work. I have no way of testing them other than trying them in circuit. As they are difficult to source other than Dez, I try to use them if they still work.
 
Instead of using a one-time-blow fuse, I install a polyfuse, which is self-resetting. It is a special type of PTC intended for applications just like this. I've been using them for almost 15 years. If you are troubleshooting the box and the polyfuse feels very warm then it is in the faulted state (it has a high resistance) and is limiting the current to a safe low level. If the polyfuse is cool then it is conducting normally (it has a low resistance).

The polyfuse (or polyswitch) that I install in the wg6100 HV box is RXEF030. This is available from many distributors such as Digikey RXEF030HF-ND.

I modified the OP's photo (hope you don't mind) to show where I mount the polyfuse. I cut the trace (under the topside jumper) shown by the red line. I then scrape off the green soldermask on the bottom to form two pads and then drill the holes using a 0.031" bit and dremel tool. The location of the holes is shown by the two red dots. The polyfuse then inserts into the two new holes from the top side and is soldered on the bottom at the new pads. This mod allows R917 to be mounted normally so it's difficult to even notice that anything has changed. The polyfuse will protect T901 very well in the event of a 555 timer failure or driver transistor failure. The advantages of the polyfuse are that it's easy to tell if it is tripped (it's warm or the voltage across it is high) and as soon as you replace the faulty 555 chip or transistor, it's good to go. You won't ever have to replace a fuse.

I would have just taken a photo of one of my modified HV boxes but they all have covers on them and I didn't want to have to take one off.

Bill B.
Bill,

Do you have any pics of this mod in a P329 revision 6100 HV PCB? In reviewing a P329 last night, it appears WG did some moving around of these parts, so I'm wondering if this mod is still needed? I haven't reviewed the schematics yet to see if anything truly changed (electronically), but plan to shortly.

Thanks for the great info.

Scott C.
 
Inquiring minds want to know. Did you try the transformer before replacing it? Many transformers I have in cages over the years look as bad or worse and still work. I have no way of testing them other than trying them in circuit. As they are difficult to source other than Dez, I try to use them if they still work.
I was told the primary windings should measure around 18 ohms in circuit. The T901 on my P329 HV PCB measured around 15.7 ohms both in and out of circuit, so I replaced it. Hopefully that helps.

Oh, the new T901 from Dezbaz measures around 21 ohm out of circuit (I need to retest with it in circuit).

Scott C.
 
I was told the primary windings should measure around 18 ohms in circuit. The T901 on my P329 HV PCB measured around 15.7 ohms both in and out of circuit, so I replaced it. Hopefully that helps.

Oh, the new T901 from Dezbaz measures around 21 ohm out of circuit (I need to retest with it in circuit).

Scott C.



Thanks. I'll start tracking values on the ones I fix

Pat
 
Measuring inductance instead of just resistance would be a better idea.
 
UPDATE: It turns out the MJE340 transistor I used at Q905 is NOT a suitable replacement for the original 2N6557. I was having a problem in which R901 and R907 were getting WAY too hot. After a while the picture would bloom; HV was dropping out.

After spraying various components with freeze spray I realized that Q905 was getting overheated, after which it would start failing and the HV would plummet. I tried adding a heat sink to it, but that just made it last a little longer before it started failing.

In the end I used an MPSW42G, and that has worked great.
 
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