WG 6100 help please...

CalifTom

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I am trying to get a friends WG6100 monitor up and running. I have attached a couple of photos of the problem areas. I have a working Tempest that I am using to test the monitor. When I plugged it in, I started to see smoke and red hot parts in the HV area. I have taken out all of the burnt parts (see photo). None of the fuses blew and I did check to make sure that they are correct. I also saw smoke coming from the deflection board near D902. I have a cap kit ordered and will be ordering the burnt parts. I would like to know what other parts and areas I should check before I test it again. Example what parts should I test. I am new to this so if you could be specific and try to write out the how to, I would appreciate it. Thanks for the help.

Also, there seems to be a mod on this deflection board. What is the mod for? Does it need to be there?
 

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That is an absolute crapload of parts to burn up like that, I've never seen one roast that many parts before. Shoot a picture of the bottom of the HV board and post it. I would bet you have solder bridges some where or possibly a flyback that's toast. Seriously wow.

When you say you ordered a cap kit - from who? They are not all the same. Zanen appears to be the most complete but a few of the items are better off upgraded.

Info called FAQS exist on the net that go into great detail on trouble shooting and recommended upgrade parts you should put in that dont; come with most kits. Google Wells Gardner K6100 FAQ

That's no MOD - it's called an input protection board

You have your hands full - bad enough to have an HV board melt down like that but to have a deflection board burn parts too? Yeesh

If it makes you feel any better I have one of these monitors that is kicking my ass .... they are evil.
 
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That is an absolute crapload of parts to burn up like that, I've never seen one roast that many parts before. Shoot a picture of the bottom of the HV board and post it. I would bet you have solder bridges some where or possibly a flyback that's toast. Seriously wow.

When you say you ordered a cap kit - from who? They are not all the same. Zanen appears to be the most complete but a few of the items are better off upgraded.


Here are a couple of pics from the HV PCB. I ordered the cap kit from Bob Roberts, plus the extra parts one.

I've checked for solder splash and cold solder joints. Everything looks good. I still need a few parts from Bob that did not come in the cap kit.
 

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The board as a whole looks decent enough - just reflow solder where it looks iffy.
Have you inspected the flyback for any cracks and/or melted areas?
When you turn it on for the first time after getting the parts installed, keep your hand on the on/off switch. These things will light up like a christmas tree when something wrong still/wrong. I wish you luck.
 
I've got some life back in this monitor, but it only displays what I think is called the spot killer. Where should I go from here? One of the parts that I did not replace was the flyback. Could this be caused by a bad flyback? Thanks for the help.
 

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You would not get the spot if the flyback was bad.

You need to see if your game board is putting out an x/y signal. If it is not, you'll only get a spot. Sometimes this is caused by a bad power brick, bad audio regulator board, or bad game board. Even if you can hear it playing, the X/Y output section could be bad.

If there is a problem with the connector to the monitor, you'll only get a spot. Sometimes the pins in that connector start backing out and don't connect properly. Sometimes a wire breaks loose.

If there is a problem with the deflection board, the connectors to it, the deflection transistors mounted to the frame (there are 6) or the wiring to them, you'll only get a spot.

And there are probably other things that would end with only a spot....
 
You need to see if your game board is putting out an x/y signal. If it is not, you'll only get a spot. Sometimes this is caused by a bad power brick, bad audio regulator board, or bad game board. Even if you can hear it playing, the X/Y output section could be bad.

In the spot I can see the colors change and I can see that the demo is playing.

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If there is a problem with the connector to the monitor, you'll only get a spot. Sometimes the pins in that connector start backing out and don't connect properly. Sometimes a wire breaks loose.

Double checked the connector and everything checks out Ok.

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If there is a problem with the deflection board, the connectors to it, the deflection transistors mounted to the frame (there are 6) or the wiring to them, you'll only get a spot.

I visually checked all 6 transistors and they look ok. Is there a specific check I can do with my DMM, to make sure they are wired correctly?

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more questions:

1. When I checked the voltages with the PCB connector off, the LED for the spot killer did not come on. It should have come on, correct?

2. On this 6100 there is a factory mod on the deflection board and it has two caps. Could these to caps cause my problems if they were bad? I think this mod has to do with the spot killer area, correct?
 
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the transistors can be measured with the power off. Put your meter on continuity test (or ohm test if you don't have a beep setting). Put the black lead on the frame, and touch the casing of each transistor with the red lead. If you get a beep or zero reading (indicating a short), then the transistor is bad and should be replaced.

Also, make sure all three wires are attached to the backside of each transistor, and reflow the solder to the pins that each of these connectors plugs into.

BTW - if you actually have a working Tempest there that you are hooking this monitor up to, you can swap this deflection board into that monitor and see if you get the same problem. If not, then you at least know that board is good. If so, then you know the problem lies on that board...
 
Also, make sure all three wires are attached to the backside of each transistor, and reflow the solder to the pins that each of these connectors plugs into.

BTW - if you actually have a working Tempest there that you are hooking this monitor up to, you can swap this deflection board into that monitor and see if you get the same problem. If not, then you at least know that board is good. If so, then you know the problem lies on that board...

I'll try these two suggestions tomorrow. Thanks so much for all the help...
 
I have some life in the monitor now. I measured the B+ at R912 and got 71.8v. Did I measure the B+ in the right area? If so, isn't the B+ supposed to be around 180v? What should I check if I have done everything correct? If not, where should I go from here. Thanks.
 
There is an orange wire that goes from the connector on the HV cage (pin 5 of P900) to the neckboard. Measure the B+ wear the orange wire connects to the neckboard...
 
There is an orange wire that goes from the connector on the HV cage (pin 5 of P900) to the neckboard. Measure the B+ wear the orange wire connects to the neckboard...

The voltage at the orange wire and the neckboard was the same 71.8v. What should I do next. Thanks.
 
I assume you measured it as DC voltage and had your red lead on the orange wire and your black lead on the monitor frame, correct?

Inside the HV cage is a pot. That is your HV pot. You should measure your B+ while turning this pot. You should be able to watch it adjust up to 180vdc.

Make sure to take the mesh cage off first, and use a long plastic screwdriver if possible. You don't want to accidentally slip and short something out. If you don't have the proper tools, just turn the game off, adjust the pot JUST A LITTLE then turn it back on and check your reading. Repeat until you have the setting you need.

If adjusting the pot doesn't help, or helps but not enough, report back. hell, report back anyway...
 
I assume you measured it as DC voltage and had your red lead on the orange wire and your black lead on the monitor frame, correct?

Inside the HV cage is a pot. That is your HV pot. You should measure your B+ while turning this pot. You should be able to watch it adjust up to 180vdc.

Make sure to take the mesh cage off first, and use a long plastic screwdriver if possible. You don't want to accidentally slip and short something out. If you don't have the proper tools, just turn the game off, adjust the pot JUST A LITTLE then turn it back on and check your reading. Repeat until you have the setting you need.

If adjusting the pot doesn't help, or helps but not enough, report back. hell, report back anyway...

Yes. DC voltage measured with red lead on orange wire and black to frame.

When I did the cap kit I also replaced the HV pot. When I try and adjust this pot it does nothing to the B+ voltage.
 
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