WG 6100 convergence help

knight rider

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Hello, need some help and info. I have a tempest with a WG6100 in it, I can get the color lines to line up vertical, but I can't get them to line up horizontal. Is there an adjustment for it? I can't seem to find the adjustment in the manual. Any help or info would be great


Thanks john
 
Having an incorrectly adjusted purity ring and/or mal-adjusted yoke can cause such issues.
Start with the purity ring. Run a marker across the purity ring and the next closest ring so you know where your starting point was if it doesn't correct the issue.
 
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That my good man is all covered in the K6100 manual ;)
The short version - Vectors are a complete pain in the ass to converge. Chances are you'll never get that 100% but 95% is doable.
 
Hello, need some help and info. I have a tempest with a WG6100 in it, I can get the color lines to line up vertical, but I can't get them to line up horizontal. Is there an adjustment for it? I can't seem to find the adjustment in the manual. Any help or info would be great


Thanks john

Static convergence is basically the same for all types of monitors, and I will explain how to do it here.

There are 3 sets of rings, typically. The set closest to the front of the tube will be Set #1, the middle set will be Set #2, and the set closest to the neckboard will be Set #3. Start with a test grid if at all possible. Loosen the rings. Mark their starting positions with a sharpie (draw a line across them) so you can put them back to their starting point if you have problems.

First we will adjust the vertical lines. We will be using Set #2. Move the two tabs closer together or farther apart until the blue and red have merged perfectly to create purple. Then move both tabs together (keeping the same distance) until it lines up with green and creates white.

Now we will adjust the horizontal. We will be using Set #3. Move the two tabs closer together or farther apart until the blue and red have merged perfectly to create purple. Then move both tabs together (keeping the same distance) until it lines up with green and creates white.

Make sure that when moving Set #3, Set #2 isn't turning, otherwise you will have to repeat the process.

Once you have the horizontal and vertical adjusted properly, you can adjust Set #1 if necessary to center the picture as much as possible. Usually both tabs will move together as you center.

Retighten the rings when you are finished.

EDIT - since it got mentioned recently, I should point out that centering using Set #1 is for vector monitors only. On raster monitors, set #1 is for purity adjustments....
 
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thanks for the info, That helps out alot. The manual doesnt describe it like that, thanks!!!

On the rings, you said Retighten the rings when you are finished. I am confused, I was able to turn the middle set no problem. I want to ask becasue I dont know and dont want to mess anything up. Is that the screw at the very end near the pcb board on the shaft?

Thanks John
 
yeah, but that just holds them in place. sometimes the rings will turn anyway, and need some hot glue across them to keep them in place...
 
Mod, I have yet to see such a simple, yet informative post on how to converge a monitor. Easy to read, easy to do. You sir, should have WRITTEN the manual. Bravo.

:thumbs_up:
 
We definitely need an online step-by-step guide with pictures covering all of the adjustments together - including the 6 trim pots on the game board. I plan to do this over Thanksgiving break. I just converged and white-balanced all of mine. There are a LOT of adjustments, about 20 in all. Fortunately they don't all interact.

The manual isn't easy to follow, but it does tell you everything you need to know. The 6100 FAQ is more concise, but again...pictures or animated GIFs would really help.
 
A mentor of mine (now retired) once said "better can be the enemy of good." That's definitely true here. It's easy to make the convergence and color purity worse if you start messing around with the yoke and the rubber wedges. I'd recommend NOT adjusting the yoke unless your dynamic convergence (near the edges of the screen) is really off. Learn from my fail. :)

The short version - Vectors are a complete pain in the ass to converge. Chances are you'll never get that 100% but 95% is doable.
 
We definitely need an online step-by-step guide with pictures covering all of the adjustments together - including the 6 trim pots on the game board. I plan to do this over Thanksgiving break. I just converged and white-balanced all of mine. There are a LOT of adjustments, about 20 in all. Fortunately they don't all interact.

The manual isn't easy to follow, but it does tell you everything you need to know. The 6100 FAQ is more concise, but again...pictures or animated GIFs would really help.

I sooooooo agree and I hope you actually do that. It will be an invaluable resource!
 
A mentor of mine (now retired) once said "better can be the enemy of good." That's definitely true here. It's easy to make the convergence and color purity worse if you start messing around with the yoke and the rubber wedges. I'd recommend NOT adjusting the yoke unless your dynamic convergence (near the edges of the screen) is really off. Learn from my fail. :)

This is what I'm wrestling with. I also have a Tempest with a 6100. I just don't want to screw it up. The horizontal lines look good, but in some spots it looks kind of like wood grain (lines sit atop one another rather than one bright, straight line across the screen) and in some spots the lines nearly fade into the black background. I surmised this was due to yoke roll and rotated it so that it was at it's best, but it's still not perfect. Then there's the convergenece problems, especially around the edges of the monitor. Convergence is better than before, but I only moved the red & blue magnets. Weird that they're no where near where they were originally with the glue still intact. I also have trouble with the BIP settings. I can get it so that the crosshatch and crosshair are good, but on the main test screen the coin mech and bonus characters are way off. If I get those properly aligned, the crosshair is way off. And then I found out about the screen collapse on certain tubes when the Y-size is maxed. Fun stuff. Looking forward to your write up.
 
Any advice on yoke placement on a vector? I have to remount an Amp yoke (came to me loose and twisted) and THEN converge it. Not looking forward to it!
 
The K6100 manual covers this. If I recall correctly, the procedure is something like this:

1. Display an all-green test pattern (ideally a grid).
2. Push the yoke on until the display is mostly green.
3. Push the yoke forward and back along the neck to find the 2 extremes where color purity fails (i.e. you see all 3 colors).
4. Put the yoke midway between these 2 extreme points.

I also found that the yoke needs to be close enough to the tube for the rubber strips to go in without falling out. I think it's more important to get this part right, than to get the yoke in the exact right place on the neck.
 
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