WG 25" 7194 Wavy Line Problem

Skinz

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Top of my monitor has a wavy line problem - the only pot I haven't turned is the one on the coil in one of these pics. My Manual says its the horizontal size pot and should be turned slowly. Should I touch it? if not any suggestions about the wavy line?
 

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sync

Look at your sync wire or wires and see if your sync wire is in the 10 position. if it is only in that pin then get a piece of wire and take sheething of the ends and jumper to pin 9 right next to it.
If it is in the 5 or 6 pin,then, move it to the 9and10 position and test.
 
Top of my monitor has a wavy line problem - the only pot I haven't turned is the one on the coil in one of these pics. My Manual says its the horizontal size pot and should be turned slowly. Should I touch it? if not any suggestions about the wavy line?

No need to turn that coil. That's your horizontal with coil, and it will make the whole image bigger or smaller horizontally, but not by much. Most of the time those width coils are siezed, and freeing them up takes more patience and time than most have. And you won' get much result out it anyway. The slug inside that little coil is ferrite and will break if you use anything metal (like an allen wrench, for example) to try and turn too hard. Even the proper plastic tools can damage it.

Your problem seems to be more related to the horizontal hold. Try fiddling with the horizontal hold pot to see if you can get the issue to resolve itself.

Other possible remedies: composite sync (already mentioned), cap kit needed, B+ voltage off (unlikely this, though)
 
Try the 50/60 hz pot.

Oh yeah, forgot about that. Nice call, Ken.

Here's what that pot looks like:

WG_25k7191_pot_close_up.JPG
 
50/60 doesn't fix it either - I don't believe any caps are going or that it needs a cap kit. I'll have to test- I thought it was the H-hold too but it kind of just moves around the wavy line.

I'll try a delicate dance between the h-hold and the 50/60 pots and see if I can get it out.

In the mean time if anyone has any other suggestions I'd appreciate it.

Could be the sync or ground too I suppose - I just feel I've tried it all - I'll keep you guys posted.
 
Make sure the monitor frame has a good earth ground first. Then try to get a satisfactory amount of straightness at the top by adjusting the horizontal position and the 50/60hz pot. You may need to even end up using the H-Pos jumper pin in a different spot in combination w/ the other settings. And you can also try pushing that disrortion up to the very top of the screen and even off of it a bit.

Neo Geo motherboards seem to have a tendency to do this w/ WG k7's. Mine did and it was a f-ing pain to get it looking normal. I have it adjusted good/high enough that you need a test screen to really see it. Keep trying, you'll get it.
 

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trouble

Unfortunately I wont be able to work on the monitor til this weekend - I'll keep you guys posted - thanks for the suggestions
 
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Unfortunately I wont be able to work on the monitor til this weekend - I'll keep you guys posted - thanks for the suggestions

Did you get this resolved? I have this problem on my NEO GEO and it's driving me MAD.
 
Has yours been capped?

I looked at one today that had this issue, and it needs to be capped. Don't know if the guy will have me do it, though, so I won't be able to cap it and say, "Yes, that fixed it..."
 
I'll try a delicate dance between the h-hold and the 50/60 pots and see if I can get it out.

I've seen that when the Contrast is outta whack too.
Set your contrast and brightness about halfway, set your SCREEN on the flyback just until the screen is nice and black with no video signal plugged in, then plug the video signal back in and fiddle with the brightness and contrast from there.

(just try it)

Along with the other suggested adjustments...... like you said, sometimes it's a dance of the adjustments.

And of course knowing it has fresh caps would be a good thing to eliminate potential problems.
 
Has yours been capped?

I looked at one today that had this issue, and it needs to be capped. Don't know if the guy will have me do it, though, so I won't be able to cap it and say, "Yes, that fixed it..."

Mode, I haven't capped my monitor. It has original caps. I should do this. However, I have searched and read numerous threads about this and a lot of people have said a cap kit didn't fix it.

I literally have this exact same issue. S-curve at the top 1" of the screen:

attachment.php
 
I know capping the monitor will take a bit of effort, but when you're troubleshooing electronics that are known for exhibiting all sorts of issues based on bad caps, it only makes sense to narrow the field of view by doing the cap kit. If you plan on keeping the game for any length of time it's well worth the investment of time and $10 in parts.
 
I know capping the monitor will take a bit of effort, but when you're troubleshooing electronics that are known for exhibiting all sorts of issues based on bad caps, it only makes sense to narrow the field of view by doing the cap kit. If you plan on keeping the game for any length of time it's well worth the investment of time and $10 in parts.

I don't disagree. I have the caps, I'll do it ASAP. I have capped almost all my games. Just haven't gotten to this one yet.
 
I've had a couple k7000s do the same thing.
The solution was jumpering the last two sync pins (-V and -H).

If the pins are already jumpered, then sometimes removing the jumper and connecting sync to -H only will solve it.

After the two pins are connected, if there is still an issue like this it can be adjusted out with the 50/60hz pot and the h-hold.
 
I've had a couple k7000s do the same thing.
The solution was jumpering the last two sync pins (-V and -H).

If the pins are already jumpered, then sometimes removing the jumper and connecting sync to -H only will solve it.

After the two pins are connected, if there is still an issue like this it can be adjusted out with the 50/60hz pot and the h-hold.

So, just connect a wire between -V and -H?? Right now I only have one wire going to -H.
 
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