WG 19V2000 help needed

jehuie

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First off, is there a troubleshooting flowchart out there for this thing? Anyone have one or know where to find one?

Second....I'm trying to get my Omega Race game working and just did a cap kit on this monitor. I get the same results in the Omega Race as I get when I plug it into my working Asteroids Deluxe. The neck glows. I don't hear any chatter at all or sense the HV kicking in (no static on the screen). And the spot-killer light is on.

I've checked all fuses and resoldered all the connectors. Any tips here? Thanks in advance guys!
 
First off, is there a troubleshooting flowchart out there for this thing? Anyone have one or know where to find one?

Second....I'm trying to get my Omega Race game working and just did a cap kit on this monitor. I get the same results in the Omega Race as I get when I plug it into my working Asteroids Deluxe. The neck glows. I don't hear any chatter at all or sense the HV kicking in (no static on the screen). And the spot-killer light is on.

I've checked all fuses and resoldered all the connectors. Any tips here? Thanks in advance guys!

If the high voltage diode is open, You would not see anything on the screen.
I wonder if the game not sending the right signal or the monitor has failed.
 
Edited to clarify: The spotkiller activates when no video signal is detected, and it shuts off HV when active. SK LED lit, no HV is consistent with having no video signal or a faulty component in the SK circuit.

Check continuity from P100 to the deflection board to make sure it's getting where it needs to.

Did you replace the chassis transistors? If not, check those for connectivity and shorts. They should be insulated from the frame, so any continuity from the case to the frame indicates a problem.

If all that looks good, it could be a fault in the spotkiller. Check Q500/501/502/503.
 
Thanks Ieure, I have all the transistors on order.

In the meantime, I'm stumped. All I want to do is measure the output voltages coming off the Omega Race P100 (12 pin) connector that goes to the monitor (19V2000) to see if they are in range but I can't because nothing matches what the schematics say. None of the wire colors match what the Omega Race monitor manual says they should be at all and pin 11 which is supposed to be "Ground" is missing entirely. So I looked at the 19V2000 manual and it has an entirely different color scheme and pin layout that ALSO does not match what I'm seeing here. Aaaaaaaand the B&W vector monitor FAQ has yet another pinout which ALSO does not match.

CRAP CRAP CRAP.

So here's my best shot at drawing and diagramming the 12 pin connector. It has 3 "D" shaped pins and the rest are all round so I'll draw them as so:

|1)(4)(7)(10)
(2)(5)(8)(11|
|3)(6)(9)(12)

1 - red
2 - orange
3 - green
4 - white
5 - white
6 - white
7 - red
8 - yellow
9 - black
10 - white
11 - no pin
12 - gray

Anyone have any idea what is what? Incidentally, the Omega Race manual indicates that there is an Electrohome monitor but this sucker has a 19V2000.
 
Thanks Ieure, I have all the transistors on order.

In the meantime, I'm stumped. All I want to do is measure the output voltages coming off the Omega Race P100 (12 pin) connector that goes to the monitor (19V2000) to see if they are in range but I can't because nothing matches what the schematics say. None of the wire colors match what the Omega Race monitor manual says they should be at all and pin 11 which is supposed to be "Ground" is missing entirely. So I looked at the 19V2000 manual and it has an entirely different color scheme and pin layout that ALSO does not match what I'm seeing here. Aaaaaaaand the B&W vector monitor FAQ has yet another pinout which ALSO does not match.

CRAP CRAP CRAP.

So here's my best shot at drawing and diagramming the 12 pin connector. It has 3 "D" shaped pins and the rest are all round so I'll draw them as so:

|1)(4)(7)(10)
(2)(5)(8)(11|
|3)(6)(9)(12)

1 - red
2 - orange
3 - green
4 - white
5 - white
6 - white
7 - red
8 - yellow
9 - black
10 - white
11 - no pin
12 - gray

Anyone have any idea what is what? Incidentally, the Omega Race manual indicates that there is an Electrohome monitor but this sucker has a 19V2000.

V2000/G05 are interchangeable. You can even swap deflection / HV boards between them.

This is from the V2000 manual —*it doesn't match what you see?
Dlr5U.png
 
Thanks, on the monitor side of the plug it does look like that. But on the Rip Off plug, pin 11 is missing. That's the ground I think. It doesn't look hacked though so I'm not sure how this is supposed to work.
 
In the meantime, I'm stumped. All I want to do is measure the output voltages coming off the Omega Race P100 (12 pin) connector that goes to the monitor (19V2000) to see if they are in range but I can't because nothing matches what the schematics say.
You can measure the X, Y, Z outputs from the test points on your Omega Race main board, or the edge connector:
http://www.gauck.com/arcade/reprOR/edge.png

So here's my best shot at drawing and diagramming the 12 pin connector. It has 3 "D" shaped pins and the rest are all round so I'll draw them as so:

|1)(4)(7)(10)
(2)(5)(8)(11|
|3)(6)(9)(12)

1 - red
2 - orange
3 - green
4 - white
5 - white
6 - white
7 - red
8 - yellow
9 - black
10 - white
11 - no pin
12 - gray

Note that you may be looking at it wrong - the numbering looking into the female connector will be mirrored when looking into the male. Some connectors have tiny nearly invisible pin numbers molded into the plastic near the housing holes. Look at the male from the side the wires go in - essentially it flips:

|3)(6)(9)(12)
(2)(5)(8)(11|
|1)(4)(7)(10)

1 - green
2 - orange
3 - red
4 - white
5 - white
6 - white
7 - black
8 - yellow
9 - red
10 - gray
11 - no pin
12 - white

So now pins match much better. The manual says wire to pin 5 should be brown but on my OR cockpit it's white (and 4,5,6 are all ground anyway). Pin 9 should be orange - maybe it is? And I never noticed it before but my cockpit has no wire to pin 11 either - it has four other grounds so it works.

You can get X deflection readings by measuring between pin 3 and ground (pin 4,5 or 6), Y from pin 2 to ground and Z from pin 1 to ground. Meter should be on AC and you should get between 4 and 6 volts for X and Y and a half to 1.5 for Z. If you don't get fluctuating AC voltage on all three, your game board is not working right.

Since you tried the monitor in your Asteroids and it didn't work, you know it (also?) has a problem. The B&W Vector Monitor FAQ has detailed steps for diagnosing and repairing the monitor. Cap kit and reflow is a good start - next is chassis bottlecap transistors and/or the MPSU07/U57 (heatsinked) ones on the board. Spot killer would be further down the list as it rarely makes trouble (although I just a G05 with a leaky LED).
 
Thanks guys, great info. And just in time for the weekend....maybe I'll be able to find time to check it out again! I really appreciate the tips.
 
Thanks, on the monitor side of the plug it does look like that. But on the Rip Off plug, pin 11 is missing. That's the ground I think. It doesn't look hacked though so I'm not sure how this is supposed to work.

All the grounds tie together, so I'd expect it to work as long as one of them is connected.
uPcmv.png
 
Thanks for all your help. It looks like bad news and I don't even know where to start. My Omega Race game isn't putting out the right voltages on the X,Y or Z pins. I know I'm supposed to be getting AC readings but they are all reading zero. But.....if I measure them with DC I'm getting about 14 volts for the X and 12 volts for the Y. I think this is bad. The Z is putting out zero for both AC and DC.
 
Thanks for all your help. It looks like bad news and I don't even know where to start. My Omega Race game isn't putting out the right voltages on the X,Y or Z pins. I know I'm supposed to be getting AC readings but they are all reading zero. But.....if I measure them with DC I'm getting about 14 volts for the X and 12 volts for the Y. I think this is bad. The Z is putting out zero for both AC and DC.

Bummer. :(
 
Thanks for all your help. It looks like bad news and I don't even know where to start. My Omega Race game isn't putting out the right voltages on the X,Y or Z pins. I know I'm supposed to be getting AC readings but they are all reading zero. But.....if I measure them with DC I'm getting about 14 volts for the X and 12 volts for the Y. I think this is bad. The Z is putting out zero for both AC and DC.

Yeah, that's bad. Unless you want to learn how to repair vector boards (which most people find tough) you should send it out for repair. You can fix your monitor (deflection board) yourself by using the FAQ and your known-good Asteroids Deluxe.

If you do want to try, the first thing is to measure (very carefully!) the DC output pins on the voltage regulators on the OR main board. If you short across pins it will hurt the board more. Connect your meter's black lead to a ground and then for each VREG you should get one leg with +/- 24 volts, another leg is ground (0v) and the other -15v (for the 7915), +5v (for the 7805), +12v (7812), and +15v (7815).
 
I believe this one is going to be outside of my skill range. I'd love to have it repaired. No acid damage which is nice! :)

Know of anyone who works on these things?
 
Know of anyone who works on these things?

I do. Hearing it play means the program side is running (good) but the vector side is not... either the vector logic or the analog vector output stages. You can try measuring the regulators as a first step but I'd guess it's the TL081 or TL082 (the eight pin chips near the size pots) or the 4016 switches. Although that doesn't explain the lack of Z out. If you measured from the edge connector note that you need to skip a pin. Or there's a labeled test pad on the board around D6.
 
If you want i can send you a fully working deflection board for your monitor to rule it out. I have a couple and can help a friend out. Let me know Ill just send it and send it back in a week. If i dont get it back ill drive to your house and install the worst arcade game ever made in your living room. Yeah thats right a great working Birdie King.
 
If you want i can send you a fully working deflection board for your monitor to rule it out. I have a couple and can help a friend out. Let me know Ill just send it and send it back in a week. If i dont get it back ill drive to your house and install the worst arcade game ever made in your living room. Yeah thats right a great working Birdie King.

Hey I appreciate the offer. I'm expecting some parts in the mail soon so I'm going to try some troubleshooting and parts replacement first but if I get stuck I may take you up on that. And the Birdie King thing has put the fear in me so I'd send it back for sure!
 
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