wg 19v1000 dead, need help

cleverlyj

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so i just picked up a playing blind space invaders with a 19v1000 in it.

i'm getting no neck glow. measured 120v ac at the connector that plugs into the chassis. i tested test point 2 for 75v and am getting 0v there. i touched up a few solder points on the board itself that looked bad, and metered and checked the fuses. they all look good.

so, anyone have any idea what i should do next? the transformer (not sure if it is the fly) that is right next to the molex plug has some burnt crap under it around the metal chassis, so i'm not sure if that's the culprit or what, but wanted to mention it...
 
There's a 75 volt regulator (Q101)....I'd check it. It's a "bottle cap" style transistor mounted on top the metal pan beside the big "can" cap. I would back track from test point 2......R103 (180 ohm 10Watt), D101, D102, D103, D104, and R123 (3.9 ohm 3 watt). This is all part of that mess under the metal pan. Did you check the two fuses in the monitor? You're gonna need schematics...

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Wells Gardner 19V1001 19V1003 19in and 23in B&W.pdf

Edward
 
thanks, edward. i was looking at the scat earlier.

can you tell me how to test a transistor? i've never checked one before, and the how tos i was just looking at on a google search are kind of confusing.
 
also, are there newer updated parts that replaced/superceded the 1n444b diodes and 2n5632 transistor? i can't find those parts anywhere.
 
Also, your heater voltage comes off that big transformer. Look at page 3 of that manual pdf....T101 is that big transformer....you have a black, red/black, yellow/black, and yellow wires running into it. That's the input. This transformer has two output windings....one's around 100VAC, the other is around 6VAC. Red and red/green wires are the 100VAC output. This gets rectified down to the 75VDC line. The green and green/yellow wires are the 6VAC output. These go straight to the neck socket....this is your heater voltage. You can see they go through the chassis circuit board at points 17 and 14. You can check the heater voltage at those two points. This is AC voltage.

Do you have another black & white monitor? You could just swap the 75V regulator to see if it's good. I've had these test good with a meter unloaded, but actually be bad when hit with juice.

Edward
 
also, are there newer updated parts that replaced/superceded the 1n444b diodes and 2n5632 transistor? i can't find those parts anywhere.

2N5632 = NTE284
1N444B = NTE117/1N4007

Check out here...
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/
Punch your semiconductor into the seach box.....click the cross reference link towards the bottom. Excellent resource for finding substitutes. They list 68 subs for the 2N5632.

Edward
 
the transformer (not sure if it is the fly) that is right next to the molex plug has some burnt crap under it around the metal chassis, so i'm not sure if that's the culprit or what, but wanted to mention it...

Burnt crap raises a red flag to me - any way to get a pic?
 
Your flyback will have a "suction cup" on the end of it...like any other flyback. The other thing is a power transformer.....those always look like hell. There's no way around it....you're gonna have to flip that thing so you can access the bottom side and take some readings. Those old black & whites do suck to work on. I made myself an eight foot "jumper". One side mates with the games harness (the connector that usually plugs into the monitor)......the other end mates with the monitors input connector. Now I can fire up the monitor outside the cabinet, on my work bench.

Edward
 
to answer you're question orion, it was the power transformer. this is the first monitor i've worked on with a separate transformer and flyback on the chassis.

edward - i checked heater voltage last night. from what i can tell, i'm getting 0v. i'm not 100% sure how to test ac in a pcb setting as i usually just test for dc, but i tested on both points 17 and 14 to ground one at a time and with pos on 17 and neg on 14 after, either way i'm getting 0v.

also, i forgot to mention last night, when testing the fuses, i'm getting a reading of 1.5 ohms. is that resistance indicating any issues? i'd generally consider a fuse to be bad when it tests out of range, rather than 1.5 ohms...
 
i now know the issue.... bad transformer. it's got 120v going in but nothing coming out, no 100v and no 6v.

so, where can i get a transformer for this, assuming anyone makes one, or, does anyone have one for sale???
 
edward - i checked heater voltage last night. from what i can tell, i'm getting 0v. i'm not 100% sure how to test ac in a pcb setting as i usually just test for dc, but i tested on both points 17 and 14 to ground one at a time and with pos on 17 and neg on 14 after, either way i'm getting 0v.

also, i forgot to mention last night, when testing the fuses, i'm getting a reading of 1.5 ohms. is that resistance indicating any issues? i'd generally consider a fuse to be bad when it tests out of range, rather than 1.5 ohms...

You tested your AC wrong. Set your meter to AC volts....one lead on point 17 (with AC it doesn't matter which lead you use, black or red).....the other lead on point 14. I bet you get 6 volts now (give or take).

You'll test for the 100VAC the same way. You need to find both ends of the wave. If you can see where the red and red/green wires go to...off the transformer...that's your 100VAC.

In both these case, you're not using "ground" as a reference. In your earlier readings, you used the DC circuits ground as a reference.....which is totally separate and isolated from the AC circuits.

Your fuses sound good. Did you remove them to test?...or in circuit? I'd pull them and test.
Edward
 
You tested your AC wrong.

i did test with one lead on 17 and the other on 14 as well. i tried it the other way to ground too just cause i wasn't getting anything. but retested this morning just to be sure and i'm getting 0v.

and the same on the output wiring. if i put one lead to the 100v red and the other to the 100v red/green, 0v. and the same if i check the 6v lines in that fashion as well.
 
Fuses shouldn't read 1.5 ohms - should be 0 ohms. Could have just been dirty but try replacing the fuse anyway. I've seen ones that look perfectly good yet were actually blown.
 
i did test with one lead on 17 and the other on 14 as well. i tried it the other way to ground too just cause i wasn't getting anything. but retested this morning just to be sure and i'm getting 0v.

and the same on the output wiring. if i put one lead to the 100v red and the other to the 100v red/green, 0v. and the same if i check the 6v lines in that fashion as well.

Oooops, sorry. There's not much left....maybe make sure the transformer has voltage going in. On the bottom of the pan, follow the white wire that exits the input connector...it runs over to a junction pin where it meets with a yellow wire. This yellow wire is one-half of the 120VAC input to the transformer. One meter probe will go here. The other half of the 120VAC wave is under the cardboard like protector on top of the pan....beside the transformer. Remove the screws that secure the protector. Under that is the AC input selector. There should be three lugs...100V, 120V, and 230V....and a purple jumper wire. The pruple jumper should be connected to the center lug (120V). A red/black wire is connected to the bottom of the 120V lug. This wires is the other half of the 120VAC input. It runs into the transformer. The bottom of this lug is the other test point. Probing these two points with your meter should read 120VAC. If you've got 120VAC here....your transformer is bad. If you don't have 120VAC here.....you're looosing juice somewhere (and your transformer is probably good).

Edward
 
alright ed, just tested that. i've got 120vac there. so, bad transformer. next question, does anyone still make these or do i have to try and get lucky and find a chassis with a working one?
 
alright ed, just tested that. i've got 120vac there. so, bad transformer. next question, does anyone still make these or do i have to try and get lucky and find a chassis with a working one?

Well, you are the unlucky soul of a bad transformer. Honestly, I've lost track of how many of these I've fixed (and the Motorola equivalents)....I've never had a bad transformer. Hell, I think I've only ever had....maybe two....bad transformers of any kind....in ALL video games/pinball machines I've worked on over the years.

As far as replacements....any modern transformer with the same input/output....and rated at enough amps....will work. It will probably be a difficult (if not impossible) search to find something modern....with the same specs. An easier solution, rob one from a junk chassis.

I might have some NOS one in my "black & white" stash. I'll have to dig out my stuff and check part numbers.

Edward
 
if you find one, edward, let me know. otherwise, i'm kind of leaning in the direction of finding a real cheap color monitor and doing brent's color mod. kind of thinking it's gonna be a cold day in hell before i can find another v1000 chassis for it.
 
Well, seeing that that monitor was in EVERY space invaders out there, that makes them pretty common overall. I didn't have any problems finding an extra chassis on ebay when I was looking.

I have a parts chassis I can rob it off for you, it is at my parents house and may be a few days before I can get to it.
 
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