Wells U2000 width coil problem

KiCsi

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Does anybody know where I could buy a new or undamaged width coil for a Wells 25k2193 / P717 ?
Mine is broken and the picture is too wide. I will clean it aswell ;)

Thanks!
 

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they should be the same as a u5000, 7400, 7500. see if you can rob one off of one of them.

if not then check with chad at arcadecup.com

he has them in stock i think.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thanks Buffett!

I found it at arcadecup, 9A2838-002, "original WG" I think thats the right one.
Somebody can help me identify it on a P717? Cause the white plastic is broken down on mine, can't see the number on it.
 
Somebody can help me out with this coil? No prob if used, but working fine.
Can't reach Chad :( I found it at SuzoHapp too, but no answer from them either.

I live in Hungary, I hope shipping is no problem.

Thanks in advance!
 
I don't know if you need this or it helps.......I just checked a couple of my U2000 chassis' width coils.....the part number on them is #9A2970-002.

Edward
 
Thanks for the correction, that's the right one!
Anybody with a spare 9A2970-002? :)
 
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What if I just change the width capacitor? Would it be a bad idea, if the coil is not working right?
Which cap should I look for?
 
What if I just change the width capacitor? Would it be a bad idea, if the coil is not working right?
Which cap should I look for?

A coil causing to much width? Location L701
i dought it..
if its adjusted wrong it will make picture to wide
now c724 and or d708
will cause to much width.
it will check shorted if its shorted.
Some parts to check,just put some electrical
tape around coil to hold in place just enough to get around it
and hold it together.then check these other parts.
 
A coil causing to much width? Location L701
i dought it..
if its adjusted wrong it will make picture to wide
now c724 and or d708
will cause to much width.
it will check shorted if its shorted.
Some parts to check,just put some electrical
tape around coil to hold in place just enough to get around it
and hold it together.then check these other parts.

Thanks for the info, I'll look around c724. So thats the width cap?

You're right, L703 whats broken. What is Pincushion coil doing?

The main problem is, if I lowering the W pot on the remote board from max, it narrows the screen a little, then from around halfway it does nothing.
 
isn't that the part # for the pincushion coil?
L703

Oops, you're correct.....just doubled checked the game again.....It had two stickers on it (i didnt catch it the first time I looked). Looks like the one peeled off the pincoushion coil, and someone stuck it onto the width coil.

Sorry for the confusion!

Edward
 
Oops, you're correct.....just doubled checked the game again.....It had two stickers on it (i didnt catch it the first time I looked). Looks like the one peeled off the pincoushion coil, and someone stuck it onto the width coil.

Sorry for the confusion!

Edward

No problem, mine is broken anyway. I will replace it, to be sure :)
 
Reopening this old thread because I am having the same issue. So far I've recapped the monitor, replaced width coil, looked at d708 and c724 and replaced with a 27 nf poly instead of the 15 nf poly cap...but no change. I'm thinking of looking at the width pot on the control board as it has very little effect. I'm in the area of the schematic where I think the issue may lie...but I'm reaching out to ask if there's something I'm overlooking? Any other suggestions? Thank you
 

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I have one that spontaneously lost all width control and it's maxed out. is this the problem you have?
 
I have zero width adjustment. I can never remember the parts locations, but I replaced the 3rd transistor and the one you have to add a heatsink to on the edge and it didn't make a difference. :p

it's also a 27" U2000, the 220 uf cap was replaced with a 10/50 BP, and that made no difference either. (I only recently got bipolars from Mouser to replace that)
 
I have zero width adjustment. I can never remember the parts locations, but I replaced the 3rd transistor and the one you have to add a heatsink to on the edge and it didn't make a difference. :p

it's also a 27" U2000, the 220 uf cap was replaced with a 10/50 BP, and that made no difference either. (I only recently got bipolars from Mouser to replace that)

What's the location of that cap BTW? Did yours have a weird cap on the neckboard pins on the main chassis? Mine had some weird cap with one leg on the negative side of a diode, the other on a leg of a transistor? Just wondering if that's factory? Also, where do you check b+ on this monitor and what voltage should the b+ be? Thanks!
 
the neckboard mods are undocumented. they'll vary. the good U5000 I have has a few caps added.

B+ is measured at TP202, which is in the middle of the deflection board near the B+ adjustment pot. contrary to what KLOV is passing these days it should be between 117-118V. there's a likelihood you won't be able to bust the epoxy off without destroying the pot, so I encourage you get new B+ and shutdown pots. I measure the ohm values on the old ones and set the new ones to the same values just as a baseline.

caps alone should get your B+ where it needs to be though I would think.
 
B+ measures at 116.1v...should I bump it up to 117v or leave it alone? Would it even make a difference?

the neckboard mods are undocumented. they'll vary. the good U5000 I have has a few caps added.

B+ is measured at TP202, which is in the middle of the deflection board near the B+ adjustment pot. contrary to what KLOV is passing these days it should be between 117-118V. there's a likelihood you won't be able to bust the epoxy off without destroying the pot, so I encourage you get new B+ and shutdown pots. I measure the ohm values on the old ones and set the new ones to the same values just as a baseline.

caps alone should get your B+ where it needs to be though I would think.
 
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