Wells Gardner K7000 problem; the screen is squished

pmagames

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Wells Gardner K7000 problem; the screen is squished

I had this problem on my Simpsons machine when I got it, I thought that a cap kit would fix it, but it stayed the same with about half the screen missing:

simpsonsscreen.jpg


Any ideas on what the problem is? Here's the chassis:

simpsonsboard-1.jpg
 
Well, first off, that's not really a K7000. It's a Kortek copy of one.

I've never worked on one, but the chassis is similar enough to a K7000 that the same troubleshooting should apply. You might want to look at the Vert IC. On a K7000 it would be IC3, but not sure how Kortek labeled things...
 
Awesome! Thanks guys. I should have looked harder in the stickied thread and saw that! The screen looks great now.

When I took the chassis out, I noticed that C40 was a little off, like the top had bulged out a bit, so I replaced it with a 35v 2200uf cap. Within a few minutes of being on, I noticed that the top of the new cap was starting to bulge and leak a bit of fluid! Any ideas on what would cause that?
 
you didn't install it backwards, did you?

I don't know about that monster you have, but a real K7000 has the POSITIVE sides marked on the chassis, not negative like most of the others.
 
I thought that maybe I had installed it backwards, but didn't think I would mess up like that twice in a row. I'll have to order some more of those caps and try it again.
 
well yeah, reverse polarity can mess it up 1235728057 times lol :)

it's ok, I've fucked up and installed caps wrong before too. you should probably cap the entire thing though.
 
I actually did a cap kit on it before posting this thread, put the negative posts with the marked holes, and only this one cap is having problems. I would think that more caps would be going out if they were all backwards, and the old caps I took out were seated the same way.

Is it possible that this one spot on the chassis is mislabeled, and would it damage something else if I were to put in a cap the other way?
 
I think there have been instances of mislabeled cap locations, and it wouldn't surprise me in the least with that knockoff one you got. lol

that's particularly why you make note if which way the polarities are faced when you take the old caps out, but if it was backwards to begin with or there's some other issue in the circuitry there, it's not going to matter much.

look further back in the circuit for like a resistor that could've gone open or a diode that went bad or something I guess.
 
Simple check would be to do a continuity test from the negative lead of the cap (or what you assume is the hole for the negative lead) to ground.
 
Okay, well I'm not getting continuity from either of the holes at C40, so I don't know what the deal is. I bought some replacement caps and they haven't arrived yet, so I haven't tested it with a cap in the opposite way yet.
 
Okay, well I'm not getting continuity from either of the holes at C40, so I don't know what the deal is. I bought some replacement caps and they haven't arrived yet, so I haven't tested it with a cap in the opposite way yet.

Why would you get continuity from two holes? A hole would be the very reason why you wouldn't get continuity, am I missing something here?
 
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