Wells Gardner K 8000 what am I missing here? Anybody have photos of what I need

I literally don't see any connection that could go to the P100 header on the power supply board. I also don't see any other place that power is getting to this monitor chassis. That leaves the question what's that transformer for and what board am I missing?
That is for input power. Dual voltage 120v and 24 volts. Never mind, covered already.
 
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I'm so happy to see this thread. I have 3 of these in a box plus a known good tube. I have 2 of them (working) in my 4 player Virtua Racing. My inability to test basic things like the bottlecap transistor keeps me from getting anywhere.
 
Looks like zenomorp's version has a different power supply board that has the 24v transformer on it. It's definitely a lot more than what's on my power supply boards.
yeah I haven't gotten around to watching that video yet lol

the SMPS from U3000 apparently drops right in on these too, as demonstrated by @arcadecup years ago

I have one of these and there's solder points labeled TP 1-2-3 where I added alligator clips. this is how I test all kinds of transistors, the less mess way. it was Randy Fromm's idea. lol
 
U3000 33" used in the US-built Sega Star Wars Racer (Pod Racer) is VGA and uses the same power supply as the K8000s used in Virtua Racing twins, Race Drivin sit down and the Microprose games (F-15 Strike Eagle, BOTTS, Tank).

U3000 and K8000 need the dual AC input voltages. Atari and Sega both used the power input cable with a "Universal Mate-N-Lok" connector that the guy above was asking about. All he needs is the power harness, it looks like.

I'd have to look at Zeno's post, but that monitor he has neat. it has a power supply that looks like it has a built-in switcher for the 24V. Never seen one of those and no idea which game uses it. It has U3000 remote board too. The usual K8000/U3000 supply is linear and needs the 2 input voltages.

To spin up any of these, just recap both boards and reflow all connectors. The chassis are pretty good; basically every failure I've ever seen is just related to cold solder joints and the PSU failing. I've seen the PSU's reg (MJE15103 or something, IIRC?) short a few times but it usually wasn't related to a chassis failure at all.

When everything is capped and reflowed: power up the PSU separately and make sure it's putting out 2 voltages, then plug in the chassis and fully power up. Not sure if Zeno's switcher type will power up without a load, but I'd guess it would.

Do not power up an unknown K8000 without a rebuild, or at least a reflow. Though this is true for nearly any monitor in my book these days...
 
yeah I haven't gotten around to watching that video yet lol

the SMPS from U3000 apparently drops right in on these too, as demonstrated by @arcadecup years ago

I have one of these and there's solder points labeled TP 1-2-3 where I added alligator clips. this is how I test all kinds of transistors, the less mess way. it was Randy Fromm's idea. lol

That looks pretty cool, but I don't really want to add a project to have a tester for another project. 😅 With how cheap and available things are from china, maybe I can find a prebuilt tester.

I think it's reasonable that I could get one full chassis working from the three. Especially with some guidance on basic things like transistor testing and how to properly mount the transistor, something I've always been unsure about. Might make a good winter project when I finish up a different project currently in that work space. It's always been hard to find much repair info on these K8's or find anyone other than Chad to work on them.

I got my MS-8 25" EGA working a year or two ago just by resoldering near a sensitive area after flexing the pcb. That got my game running while I waited for Chad to repair one of the K8's that blew up (he said bad flyback). Now that MS-8 is a spare on the shelf which feels great to have. Getting that thing working felt amazing - I was pumped!!
 
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yeah I haven't gotten around to watching that video yet lol

the SMPS from U3000 apparently drops right in on these too, as demonstrated by @arcadecup years ago

I have one of these and there's solder points labeled TP 1-2-3 where I added alligator clips. this is how I test all kinds of transistors, the less mess way. it was Randy Fromm's idea. lol
A lot of really cool electronic projects on there! I need try try a few of these.
 
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A lot of really cool electric projects on there! I need try try a few of these.
I needed it today working on a 6100. someone else put the 5886/5884 transistors in it... one of the 5884s failed open. he thought he was a resistor.
 
Pretty familiar with this monitor, repaired a couple of times. Last time was the RIFA type cap on the main board. Good advise on this page.
 
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