Wells Gardner 9K7704

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I got this Bartop arcade that has a 9" Samsung Tube with a Wells Gardner 9K7704 Chassis. Games play blind.

Previous owner said it was working fine, then one day it just went out.

There is no neck glow
I don't hear the static or high frequency whine you get when a monitor's usually on

I disconnected power to monitor via the Molex connector
Measured that it is in fact getting power to that point
Pulled the Chassis and checked the Fuse
It was blown
Replaced it

Tested
Still nothing
Fuse did not blow again.

I can solder if need be
This is the extent of my monitor knowledge

Can someone help me?
 
Last edited:
I've pulled the HOT and am waiting for a replacement for it.

But I'm wondering about the Bridge Rectifier, how do I test it?

Also if it checks out, could I get away with just replacing the HOT? Should I really replace the Flyback and Rectifier too?
 
I've pulled the HOT and am waiting for a replacement for it.

But I'm wondering about the Bridge Rectifier, how do I test it?

Also if it checks out, could I get away with just replacing the HOT? Should I really replace the Flyback and Rectifier too?

Did you test the HOT to make sure it needs replacing? You test a bridge rectifier in the same way - with a diode test.

By the way, if you ever need to know how to test a component with a meter, I've always found this site to be particularly helpful...
:D
 
Look on google was not the answer I was looking for.
As I posted above, I tested using the method in the youtube video I posted
Which I found by using google

Again I don't know electronics, I can solder. I need someone to walk me through.
 
I had two points:

1) If you are replacing the HOT, then you must know it is bad, right? Or are you just replacing it because you read somewhere it s probably the problem? If you tested the HOT and know it's bad, then you test the bridge rectifier the same way.

2) I pointed you to Google because you can find the answer out very easily and fast. For example, this is a bridge rectifier diagram:

4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg


As you can see, it is a simple 4-diode setup. Your bridge rectifier could just be four diodes, or it could be one component with 4 legs. Looking at the diagram shows the + and - corners, and your rectifier will have two legs marked the same way. Putting your meter on diode test and checking between each point with regard to which leg the black lead goes on (side with the stripe) will tell you whether it is good (measures between .400 and .700).
 
I tested according to the youtube video I posted, but I'm not entirely sure I did it right. He kept saying diode test and his beeps. I set mine to diode test, it doesn't beep. I don't know what I should be seeing on the multimeter's LCD.

I can't read electronics schematics let alone understand how they should work and how to test them.

I really need a step by step like this.

Your Hot has 3 pins
Place negarive terminal from multimeter here, place positive here
you should see this on the multimeter

And my bridge rectifier is 5 pins and has no markings on it other than the part number which is STR30130
 
So I found the datasheet for the Rectifier.

So I can ignore the 5th pin cause it's not used but pins 1-4
1. Common (-)
2. Base
3. Input
4. Output

I don't know where I need to put the red and black leads from my multimeter and what I should see on the lcd panel
 
put your black lead on one leg of the 4, then move the red lead to each of the other three. If you get a .000 reading (or close) on any of them, the rectifier is most likely bad, but it should be pulled and tested again. Then move the black lead to one of the other corners and repeat with the red lead. Keep doing that until you've checked them all in every combination.

Test the HOT in the same way.

A good transistor, rectifier, or diode will give a reading of between .400-.700 one way, and nothing (looks like a 1 or a lower-case L) the other way. A bad one will show nothing both ways, or zeroes/beeps both ways (not all meters have a beep function). Sometimes other parts can interfere with your readings, so if you get something that looks wrong, pull it and test it again...
 
When I do that, I get .661 between pins 2 and 4. Pins 3 and 1 are .0

So for the transistor, I do it from the middle pin thought right?
 
K, so I replaced the HOT, Voltage Regulator and Flyback anyway and still the same.
 
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