Wells Gardner 7300 (WG1973)

ArcadeDanger

Well-known member

Donor 2013, 2015
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
2,968
Reaction score
283
Location
Sunnyvale, California
I've a chassis that I'm doing a tube swap on - I believe it to be a WG7300 type, similar to my Vision Pro monitor chassis.

The replacement tube has the yoke wires without the connector, so I'm concerned about wiring it incorrectly (and frying the monitor). Which of the 4 yoke wires goes where? There's a gap in between the first 2 pins, think o<gap>o o o. Can't seem to find a manual for these online.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Wire Colors should match up. But best bet is to read the ohms on the old tube and new tube and move the pairs of wires appropriately.
 
Sorry I wasn't clear; I'm asking which wire color goes to which pin on the chassis. The tube has them all loose/single.
 
Seems like different chassis do different combinations (Look at G07 vs Wells Gardner): "Unlike the staggered wiring of the GO7 yoke, other yokes kept the windings' pins side-by-side usually, and with a wider gap/spacing between the H winding pins to prevent you from plugging up to the wrong winding."

Was hoping to identify the one for the WG1973 specifically. If I had to guess with current information, it would be:

(RED H) <gap> (BLUE H) (YELLOW V) (GREEN V)

Can someone confirm this for me? Perhaps I should find a source for these connectors to not have to figure it out again in the future.
 
Last edited:
Seems like different chassis do different combinations (Look at G07 vs Wells Gardner): "Unlike the staggered wiring of the GO7 yoke, other yokes kept the windings' pins side-by-side usually, and with a wider gap/spacing between the H winding pins to prevent you from plugging up to the wrong winding."

Was hoping to identify the one for the WG1973 specifically. If I had to guess with current information, it would be:

(RED H) <gap> (BLUE H) (YELLOW V) (GREEN V)

Can someone confirm this for me? Perhaps I should find a source for these connectors to not have to figure it out again in the future.

yes horizontal is usually where the gap is and usual colors are the red/blue and the vertical is usually the last two on the connector and are usually yellow/green. looks like it should be good. i hope that is what you were asking.
 
Wired up as above, had the screen flipped vertical, so I had to do:

(RED H) <gap> (BLUE H) (GREEN V) (YELLOW V)

Which worked. Picture looks nice. Has similar over saturation problems as on the burned in tube, so it's something about the chassis that overdrives the color?

Now I have a width issue due to the yoke being slightly higher resistance than the original. Is there a cap I could swap out on this chassis to get more width? See pics. The H POS adjusts the image within a restricted rectangle that's off to the side, curling the image at the edges, same with the board pots.
 

Attachments

  • TurboOutrun-WG7300-Width1.jpg
    TurboOutrun-WG7300-Width1.jpg
    209.6 KB · Views: 13
  • TurboOutrun-WG7300-Width2.jpg
    TurboOutrun-WG7300-Width2.jpg
    204.4 KB · Views: 11
I played with the drive and cutoff knobs some, I think the colors improved a bit.

Worked some of the pots on the board (H width, H osc) and was able to make it wider horizontally, but the picture was still folding over (as if shifted to left too much). I adjusted it a bit but still notice the folding, or missing a good chunk of the left side of the display if I adjust H POS the other way. Any suggestions?

Attaching pics of the chassis board - clicking that toggle shifted it even more to the left. Is there something else to try to better center things horizontally?

The board is from yr 2000, I imagine its never had a cap kit performed to it. Does anyone make cap kits for these?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2822.jpg
    IMG_2822.jpg
    170.7 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2819.jpg
    IMG_2819.jpg
    192.1 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_2816.jpg
    IMG_2816.jpg
    199 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_2815.jpg
    IMG_2815.jpg
    185.1 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_2818.jpg
    IMG_2818.jpg
    198.9 KB · Views: 12
Back
Top Bottom