Wells Gardner 27D9204 No picture

KevinSin

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Hey guys,

Just picked up a Madden NFL football with a Wells Garder 27D9204 monitor with no picture. There is neck glow but absolutely no picture comes up. I hooked up an LCD monitor and the game is fine but the wells monitor is a no go. Where do I begin to troubleshoot this? Should I start with a cap kit? I'm assuming the flyback is ok since there is neck glow....thoughts.
 
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No picture No High Voltage

https://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Schematics/D9204_D9205_Schematics.pdf

Heater or filament voltage doesn't come
from the flyback..in this chassis..
Comes from the power supply the 8v's dc
Do you have High Voltage can you hear it? unplug it and
discharge the tube and plug it in listen at power up for the high voltage.
Did you turn the G2 screen control clockwise to see a white raster?
your digital remote board must be lit is it green,yellow?
Let us know
 
Do you see the "No Signal" on the screen when powered up with no video signal connected? If not, listen to see if it's make a faint clicking sound. If so, check the HOT. If not, check the fuse.

D9200 are notorious for developing corrupted CMOS over time, and sometimes get "stuck" in one resolution mode and will not show a picture when connected to a different resolution input. Many times a different resolution input will make the "No Signal" screen go away, but just leave it blank.

In order to resolve this, you need to connect different resolution modes to it until you get a stable enough image to access the menu via the remote. Once that happens, hold the DOWN and SEL buttons on the remote at the same time. This will access the Factory Menu Then turn up all the brightness and color settings, adjust picture size, and the choose RE to save and exit. After that, you can adjust brightness, colors, and size in the normal menu. Once you exit, you should now be able to get other resolutions to work.

I recently worked on a D9200 that would only show a distorted pic in EGA (medium-res) mode, but it was enough to access the menu and reset it. After that, I was able to get the nice stable VGA image that I was looking for.

Hope you don't have to cap it. I'm an expert and it still takes me a couple hours to go through one...
 
your digital remote board must be lit is it green,yellow?
Let us know

I'm not sure the remotes have a light on them. I thought that was for the D9400's. I just fixed a D9200 and didn't see any light on the remote...
 
I'm not sure the remotes have a light on them. I thought that was for the D9400's. I just fixed a D9200 and didn't see any light on the remote...

nope no led lights on this remote board
that's correct.

More Tip's with this chassis.

All 9200's that have original caps needs a cap kit
but not all the caps go bad..Its takes about hour and 45 mintues
to install all caps for me.
Not just caps fail on the chassis either there are semiconductors
fail too.
Unless work with the chassis much you should do a cap
kit first and then work from there.
I have a list i find bad every repair and i replace those first
and test the chasiss.

Could also be vertical collapse and when you turn up
the screen control you see a horizontal line
then you will know you have high voltage too.
If you dont see a raster then you wont see a menu..

I replace the eprom when it gets corrupted
at a cost of $2.50 not reinitialize it only to learn i didn't
complete the repair because the chip is bad and needs replacing
And when you reinitialize it it goes to a factory settings'
which are not the correct values!
Still need to readjust advance settings for geometry and RGB
because trap,side pin etc all get changed of coarse if you just want to
guess at it you can but should do it with test patterns, game companys
dont set this up the monitor company preset them with factory test patterns.
the data value are different which is a very common procedure
when dealing with eprom to copy down them first so they can
be reintered back in..Blindly resetting this is not a good idea unless
it needs it then i would just replace the chip then re'enter the data values.
Try copying them down next time and then you'll see they are different
after you blindly reset them.
Very common on tvs that been using eproms for decade's to copy them first!

I find that when the mosfets for different resolutions are bad
that the driver circuits can't lock in and part of trouble shooting
could be to find a resolution that works will give you and idea whats happening too.
The mosfets would be mostly likely because they are high current switching parts
and more likely to fail.. and of coarse if you found a defective mosfet then
you just wasted the time resetting the eprom and now added more adjustments
to the repair..to each thier own as they say..just dont add problems..

I think your'll just adding problems by doing the reset unless its needed
need to replace the chip then adjust to correct values.
From my experience with eprom you can get the values and re-enter them
for the best picture. and bring it back to the correct picture.
I see it as a EPROM 24c02 not a CMOS which is different component.
 
Checked the fuse and its ok. Turned up the G2 pot all the way and nothing is on the screen. Ill bring my discharger to work on Monday so I can pull the chassis and get a better look at it.

https://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Schematics/D9204_D9205_Schematics.pdf

Heater or filament voltage doesn't come
from the flyback..in this chassis..
Comes from the power supply the 8v's dc
Do you have High Voltage can you hear it? unplug it and
discharge the tube and plug it in listen at power up for the high voltage.
Did you turn the G2 screen control clockwise to see a white raster?
your digital remote board must be lit is it green,yellow?
Let us know
 
Tried changing the resolutions and absolutely nothing on the screen. Its weird, I get a clicking sound occasionally. Fuse seems fine. This will be my first vga repair.

Do you see the "No Signal" on the screen when powered up with no video signal connected? If not, listen to see if it's make a faint clicking sound. If so, check the HOT. If not, check the fuse.

D9200 are notorious for developing corrupted CMOS over time, and sometimes get "stuck" in one resolution mode and will not show a picture when connected to a different resolution input. Many times a different resolution input will make the "No Signal" screen go away, but just leave it blank.

In order to resolve this, you need to connect different resolution modes to it until you get a stable enough image to access the menu via the remote. Once that happens, hold the DOWN and SEL buttons on the remote at the same time. This will access the Factory Menu Then turn up all the brightness and color settings, adjust picture size, and the choose RE to save and exit. After that, you can adjust brightness, colors, and size in the normal menu. Once you exit, you should now be able to get other resolutions to work.

I recently worked on a D9200 that would only show a distorted pic in EGA (medium-res) mode, but it was enough to access the menu and reset it. After that, I was able to get the nice stable VGA image that I was looking for.

Hope you don't have to cap it. I'm an expert and it still takes me a couple hours to go through one...
 
check resistors

Checked the fuse and its ok. Turned up the G2 pot all the way and nothing is on the screen. Ill bring my discharger to work on Monday so I can pull the chassis and get a better look at it.



Is R462 off q413 or R854 on the secondary of the power supply

are they open?

when either are open you will have more parts bads..

odds are you have no high voltage!
 
I finally got some time to dig into this and was able to pull the board out (what a pain i might add). I'm pretty sure I have no high voltage since I didn't hear any noise when i tried to discharge the monitor. R462 is right next to Q413 and they seem fine. What are the odds that the flyback is bad? I guess l can do a cap kit and replace the flyback and see if that fixes it.

Is R462 off q413 or R854 on the secondary of the power supply

are they open?

when either are open you will have more parts bads..

odds are you have no high voltage!
 
I finally got some time to dig into this and was able to pull the board out (what a pain i might add). I'm pretty sure I have no high voltage since I didn't hear any noise when i tried to discharge the monitor. R462 is right next to Q413 and they seem fine. What are the odds that the flyback is bad? I guess l can do a cap kit and replace the flyback and see if that fixes it.


Ok you need to check R854..a 1.2 ohm 1 watt ,the 170 volt B+
its used for the Flyback..Check Q425 HOT and Q427 the mosfet for short..
I'v never found any issues with the flyback in this model
and look for transistor and Ics to go bad and some caps..
If the caps are original then i would do a cap kit..
you might check my list and replace those first and see
I dont see every cap going bad but its your call..
This is not a simple K7000 model its cover's alot of resolutions
and well worth fixing..Iv had only two chassis i didnt fix and it had to
do with a drive transformer and a Sync Decoder board parts were NLA
all others were fixed.

Neck glow means you do have some dc coming from the power supply
any one voltage that comes from the ps means you have a few more
take some check points you might find you need more then a cap kit..
Some test points are clearly mark on the schematic...
if your relay clicks at plugin that means you have 12vs to the relay
and 5vs to the Mirco..
Dont make multiple orders think about what you really need then make
a order..

Good Luck!
 
I'm pretty sure I have no high voltage since I didn't hear any noise when i tried to discharge the monitor.

While it's possible you may have no high voltage due to shutdown, getting spark while discharging is not an indicator of this. Newer monitors like the D9200 have built-in discharge circuits to bleed off any charge in the tube, and you'll only get a spark if there is a major failure in that circuit...
 
Gonna piggyback on this a bit...

I have one of these that doesn't do anything when I hold down down and select. Any ideas?
 
Gonna piggyback on this a bit...

I have one of these that doesn't do anything when I hold down down and select. Any ideas?

needs some kind of signal in order to get that to pop up. unless you get the regular menu to come up.
 
yeah. I wonder if OP switched the little cable on the signal board over when he changed resolutions.
 
New question -

I got it working, but the picture is blurry. If I adjust the focus knob all the way to one extreme, it gets better but not all the way. New flyback?


Edit: I should add that it looks just fine when it show the no signal screen, sharp and clear. It's only blurry when Gauntlet has booted.
 
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isn't there 2 focus pots on there? there was 2 of something on those, I can't remember exactly though.
 
There are 3 knobs on the flyback, but one of them isn't used for anything. It's shown on the diagram here.

I guess I need to hook it up to something else to confirm that it's the monitor that's the problem...
 
Made some progress...

I ruled out the Gauntlet Legends stuff by hooking up my laptop via VGA. It was blurry that way too, so at least I know it's the monitor that's screwy.

Anyone know what to replace (flyback?) or someone who repairs this model?
 
I would re-set the focus wire. maybe it slipped out. the holder is easily lifted up with a small flathead and the wire slides in and out. not like the older ones where there was a clip you tucked the focus wire under to keep it from moving.
 
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