Wells Gardner 25K7193 Vertical Shake

Cold solder is not a likely culprit, more likely you need to check your B+ and do a cap kit. The fast transitions can cause temporary drops in the high voltage, if it is already marginal then the drop will be seen. Electrolytic capacitors are often used as a temporary reserve to keep the power stable, old caps often have trouble keeping up.
 
Cold solder is not a likely culprit, more likely you need to check your B+ and do a cap kit. The fast transitions can cause temporary drops in the high voltage, if it is already marginal then the drop will be seen. Electrolytic capacitors are often used as a temporary reserve to keep the power stable, old caps often have trouble keeping up.

Just did a Bob Roberts Cap Kit.
 
Did you have the problem before and after the cap kit? Did you replace anything else? What does your B+ read? Does it vary significantly (greater than one volt) when the screen changes?
 
Did you have the problem before and after the cap kit? Did you replace anything else? What does your B+ read? Does it vary significantly (greater than one volt) when the screen changes?

Yes, had it before the kit. Nothing else replaced. What's the correct way to measure B+?
 
Check it at the large white ceramic resistor hanging off of the side of the chassis. I believe it is the side with the blue wire, and it should read 130vdc. If you have the ability to clip your leads into place you can watch the meter for any fluctuations during the screen changes.
 
Check it at the large white ceramic resistor hanging off of the side of the chassis. I believe it is the side with the blue wire, and it should read 130vdc. If you have the ability to clip your leads into place you can watch the meter for any fluctuations during the screen changes.

Finally got around to this. It reads 130VDC on the B+. For 25", that's the correct value, right? What else might cause the shake?
 
possible that the filter cap is on its way out.
try replacing that along with the 3 bipolar caps.

Peace
Buffett
 
no they are not you have to order them separate.

3 10uf 25v bp
1 560uf 200v.

also update your profile with a location and maby some one local to you can come and look at it as well.

Peace
Buffett
 
no they are not you have to order them separate.

3 10uf 25v bp
1 560uf 200v.

also update your profile with a location and maby some one local to you can come and look at it as well.

Peace
Buffett

thanks for your help. anything else it could be? meaning any more parts i should order assuming everything else is original?

also, bob only lists "10uf50volt BP High Frequency Radial Cap". will that work?
 
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yes they will work.

i cannot think of any thing else that would cause it at the moment. other than turning down the contrast and brightness pots and the screen nob on the fly you may be over driving it a little.

Peace
Buffett
 
alot of the k700s do this, worse ont he newer games like xmen where the screen is always changing and super bright..

what you see is typically referred to as "blooming" and is generally caused by bad b+ regulation. A prime culprit is caps and the MAIN FILTER CAP. However i do own one monitor in particular that has had the whole damn gauntlet done to it and it still blooms. Ive lived with it. Its been runing that way for over two years now.

You could always replace the monitor and save it for an older game where it wont be as noticable etc..

Also would not hurt to check all the damn solder joints, k7000s and solder seem to not mix well after 20 years.
 
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