Wells Gardner 13K7803 With Some Quirks?

kingofpain79

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Hello again everyone! I just finished working on my Wells Gardner chassis for my Playchoice 10 Countertop. On the chassis, I replaced the old caps, filter cap, flyback, and the HOT. I verified that all parts were correct before I changed anything. Before this, the picture from the monitor was good, the only complaint was that it has wavy, I.E. looked like waves in a pool.

After the work, I hooked everything back up, dialed it in, and the waviness is still there. Also, there seems to be a momentary flashing between game transition screens, like someone is turning the brightness up and then dialing back down to correct levels. This also causes the screen to jump a bit, just enough to be noticeable, almost like vertical sync is temporarily lost.

I hooked my multimeter up to IC Pin 4 to check B+, and with the initial power up, voltage is around 124V. In the K7000 manual via a flow chart states B+ should be around 123V. I left the meter hooked up, and started a game, and the voltage jumps up to 131V during these transition screens, and then stays around the 128V range. The high range is when the screen brightness looks like it's been turned up temporarily. I can submit a video if anyone wants to see this.

Is this normal for this chassis? Can I adjust the B+ at all? The only voltage pot I can find on the chassis is labeled "SHUTDOWN". Any advice would be great. Thanks!!!
 
I don't know about those particular 13" monitors, but the 19" playchoice single monitor games came with 19" wells gardners in them, and had the same problem with the screen getting brighter between screens during attract mode. I've had several, and all of them had that same issue... so I think it's something related to the gameboard, or maybe the power supply for the monitor (haven't really looked into that)... or possibly, the little video converter board that the signal goes through before it goes to the 19" monitor.

Not sure if the 13" monitor uses that converter board...

You can't adjust the B+ on the K7000 monitors unfortunately... The reason the B+ goes up and down is bad voltage regulation in the chassis, which might be by design or might be the cheaper flybacks we're all putting in these chassis if it ends up being the monitor instead of the pcb/converter board/ac supply.

How bad is the 'wave' ? For that, I'd look at the ac voltage going into the monitor since you replaced the filter cap already. See if you've got a bad or dirty connection on the fuse for the monitor voltage, or a bad connection on however that ac is routed...
 
I don't know about those particular 13" monitors, but the 19" playchoice single monitor games came with 19" wells gardners in them, and had the same problem with the screen getting brighter between screens during attract mode. I've had several, and all of them had that same issue... so I think it's something related to the gameboard, or maybe the power supply for the monitor (haven't really looked into that)... or possibly, the little video converter board that the signal goes through before it goes to the 19" monitor.

Interesting. I have a single monitor PC10 upright too, but mine has a Sharp Monitor in it. The Wells in the Countertop does not need a converter board to display the signal properly. I read on here somewhere that the inversion is actually done on the monitor chassis itself.

I'm going to pull the chassis in the next day or so and check the power coming into the chassis, as well as check for cold/burned solder connections in the usual places. See if I can find any issues there. I'll report my findings.
 
Yes they can change a few values on the monitor pcb to invert the colors back...Nintendo probably ordered the 'inverted' monitors from Wells just for that cabinet. The upright 1 monitors that were dedicated I believe all had Wells monitors in them, but like I said it had a little converter board... is yours a 'dedicated' upright or was it a converted Nintendo cabinet like Donkey Kong or something?
 
Yes they can change a few values on the monitor pcb to invert the colors back...Nintendo probably ordered the 'inverted' monitors from Wells just for that cabinet. The upright 1 monitors that were dedicated I believe all had Wells monitors in them, but like I said it had a little converter board... is yours a 'dedicated' upright or was it a converted Nintendo cabinet like Donkey Kong or something?

Mine is a dedicated cab, not a conversion. I had a Red Tent once upon a time that had Sharp Monitors in it as well. The PC10 Countertop is the first time I've seen a Wells Gardner monitor in a Nintendo arcade cab. I have six Nintendo cabs in total, four of them being the first style they released, and all those monitors are Sanyos. The PC10 upright is a Sharp, and the Countertop is a Wells Gardner.
 
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the Nintendo bartops came stock with 13" Wells Gardner monitors in them already inverted on the chassis.
i own 2 Stock OEM Nintendo bartops and they are exactly the same.

the PC10 american cabs had mostly 19" Zenith K7000a's in them with the same inversion on the chassis.
there may have been a few exceptions out there, but i have never seen an example of one.

even the Euro and Australian PC10's had converted wells in them.

if you had a 19" PC10 one with an inverter PCB in it for the K7000, i would have to guess that it was swapped out sometime in it's life and the op or owner did not know how to invert the replacement chassis without the additional inverter board.

as far as the bounce from screen to screen, both of my bartops do the same thing.
i don't think it is a chassis issue, i think it is just how the PC10 blits the different images to the screen as it switches.

even my PC10's on 19" Sanyo's do this, they roll or bounce once in a wile when you switch off different screens in different games back to the menu.

the K7000a i just fixed out of a PC10 for someone did the exact same thing even with my TPG.

a video will help us see what your talking about and we can see if it looks normal or not.

Peace
Buffett
 
as far as the bounce from screen to screen, both of my bartops do the same thing.
i don't think it is a chassis issue, i think it is just how the PC10 blits the different images to the screen as it switches.

even my PC10's on 19" Sanyo's do this, they roll or bounce once in a wile when you switch off different screens in different games back to the menu.

the K7000a i just fixed out of a PC10 for someone did the exact same thing even with my TPG.

a video will help us see what your talking about and we can see if it looks normal or not.

To be fair, the monitor did the same thing before I rebuilt it, it just seems more intense after I completed my work if that makes any sense? The new components may be intensifying the effect that I had become used with the old parts on the chassis maybe? I'll try and get a vid posted tomorrow afternoon for you to see. From what I understand, there's an extra CPU on the PC10 motherboard that displays the selection menus, game hints, timer, etc. and the monitor has to sync back and forth between games and menus as they are selected. I can say that with the PC10 Upright with the Sharp monitor that I have, I don't notice any bouncing as you're switching back and forth. I am going to check it tomorrow as well just to see!
 
Video of Monitor in Action

Here's the video of the monitor running:

https://youtu.be/X4tsNBlfwyQ

Sorry if the quality is crap. I recorded in 1080P, but apparently YouTube didn't like it!

Also, the waviness that was in the picture has subsided quite a bit from a couple of days ago. Not entirely sure what's going on there.
 
that bounce in the beginning when you changed screens is the exact same bounce that i have on both of my bar-tops and my dual monitor setups.

i have notice with the new flyback crop, that after they burn in for a little wile some of the image problems folks are seeing settle down or go away.

they must just need a warm up and settle in period for some reason.

Peace
Buffett
 
that bounce in the beginning when you changed screens is the exact same bounce that i have on both of my bar-tops and my dual monitor setups.

i have notice with the new flyback crop, that after they burn in for a little wile some of the image problems folks are seeing settle down or go away.

they must just need a warm up and settle in period for some reason.

Peace
Buffett

Gotcha. When I was working on the chassis, I hadn't read the sticky about common K7000 issues (Because this is the first one I've dealt with! Lol), and I didn't check the common fail points for cold/burned solder joints. Should I do this before I wrap this project up? I'm not having any real issues that those points would cause, but for the sake of completeness, I feel I should. What are your thoughts Buffett?
 
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