Wells Gardener 19K7901

rikitheshadow

Active member

Donor 2011
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
793
Reaction score
36
I'm just starting this thread because its my first time working on a monitor.
At this moment I have yet to test the monitor myself, but the original owner said it was not working with the game, but the game would power up otherwise. I think its mostly because the jerry rigged wiring in this sad excuse for a cabinet.

Here are pics of the chasis to get a good idea of what I'm looking at. All safely discharged!

DSC00198.jpg

DSC00201.jpg

DSC00204.jpg



Is this typical?


DSC00200.jpg




Just a closer look at the flyback area of the board, with the serial numbers and junk.

DSC00199.jpg




Now they had a black wire hanging off the neck board not connected to anything, but I figure this may be a ground considering how I've compared the wiring of my Konami cab's K7000. The degaussing coil was un-attached, the monitor was not isolated, but overall the caps look to be ok, no bursting or anything (i'm no expert though). When I finish with fixing up the power board with the isolation transformer I'll hook her back up and give it a try, see if I get some neck glow and maybe a picture.
 
I'm just starting this thread because its my first time working on a monitor.
At this moment I have yet to test the monitor myself, but the original owner said it was not working with the game, but the game would power up otherwise. I think its mostly because the jerry rigged wiring in this sad excuse for a cabinet.

Here are pics of the chasis to get a good idea of what I'm looking at. All safely discharged!

Looks like quite a bit of (normal) heat issues there in the middle. Before you power it up, go over that entire area for cold solder or detached pads.

Is this typical?

Not really, but I've seen it before on other models. Sometimes there is a CRT brightener installed there and then removed. I'd leave it alone for now.


Now they had a black wire hanging off the neck board not connected to anything, but I figure this may be a ground considering how I've compared the wiring of my Konami cab's K7000. The degaussing coil was un-attached, the monitor was not isolated, but overall the caps look to be ok, no bursting or anything (i'm no expert though). When I finish with fixing up the power board with the isolation transformer I'll hook her back up and give it a try, see if I get some neck glow and maybe a picture.

That black wire is probably the dag wire, and it MUST be attached before powering it up. If not, you'll possibly blow all kinds of stuff. If it was hooked up without isolation, then you'll probably find IC4 shorted, D20 and D21 shorted, and maybe R103 open. If you're lucky, that's it. The HOT may be shorted (test with black lead on center leg and red lead on others) from this, or from the DAG wire off. Check C36, C38, and D18 for shorts while looking it over. Also look around the flyback's knobs for small cracks. Obviously check the fuse, too.

Checking all this while it's out will tell you whether or not you may have a good chance of it working now. If you find issues that need repairing, might as well do the cap kit while it's out. Only about 17 caps...
 
Looks like quite a bit of (normal) heat issues there in the middle. Before you power it up, go over that entire area for cold solder or detached pads.



Not really, but I've seen it before on other models. Sometimes there is a CRT brightener installed there and then removed. I'd leave it alone for now.




That black wire is probably the dag wire, and it MUST be attached before powering it up. If not, you'll possibly blow all kinds of stuff. If it was hooked up without isolation, then you'll probably find IC4 shorted, D20 and D21 shorted, and maybe R103 open. If you're lucky, that's it. The HOT may be shorted (test with black lead on center leg and red lead on others) from this, or from the DAG wire off. Check C36, C38, and D18 for shorts while looking it over. Also look around the flyback's knobs for small cracks. Obviously check the fuse, too.

Checking all this while it's out will tell you whether or not you may have a good chance of it working now. If you find issues that need repairing, might as well do the cap kit while it's out. Only about 17 caps...


The question is lol, is how I go about testing this? Sorry, i'm not yet experienced with this.

But i checked all over the Flyback, no cracks.....just dirty like most old electronics.

Oh yes, and the fuse is fine.
 
Last edited:
Ok, I know for sure I do not know how to check IC4 I know my way around resistors and diodes. So heres the readings.

D20 .412
D21 .409

R103 was difficult to read because the aged connections, but it was mostly reading 2.7ohms

Just guide me from here and I shall follow! =P
 
Looking good so far. Check IC4 and the HOT with the diode test. Check the HOT the way I said. Check the VR (IC4) using the diode test. Just look for shorts on any combination of legs. Check C36, C38, and D18 the same way...
 
I drew something up to show what test readings I could get from IC4
The last lead I couldn't get any readings, some of them gave some readings and stayed put, and one of them would ramp up and then disappear.

I haven't checked anything else at the moment, and I'm still confused on the Hot lolz
 

Attachments

  • IC4 Tests.JPG
    IC4 Tests.JPG
    57.4 KB · Views: 27
What about from the middle leg to the two right legs, or the two right legs together?
 
BTW - this is how I test it for shorts:

Black lead = B
Red Lead = R
X = No Lead

Pins:
5 4 3 2 1
B R R R R
X B R R R
X X B R R
X X X B R

If you have a short, it will show up that way. Real quick way to test it. Just look for zeroes or beeps. If you get one, pull the part and check it again...
 
What about from the middle leg to the two right legs, or the two right legs together?

Ok, testing the right pins together will ramp up to .97 and then disappear.
Testing the Middle lead to the 4th pin (on the right) gets a reading of .131
The 5th lead on the right still gives nothing, even when tested to the 4th lead.
 
I'll flow the solder and see if I can order me a ISO transformer to get the wiring done. This has been fun lol. Although I'm confused........but I'll learn.
 
Uhm, ok so I know why the Deguassing coil was not attached to the chasis, the connector doesn't fit. Which brings me to question if the Tube will be compatible with the board.......???

The tube is not marked by a manufacturer but the Tube type is a 19" A48AAB36X
 
Last edited:
Uhm, ok so I know why the Deguassing coil was not attached to the chasis, the connector doesn't fit. Which brings me to question if the Tube will be compatible with the board.......???

The tube is not marked by a manufacturer but the Tube type is a 19" A48AAB36X

That tube has a CR-23 neck. Check your neckboard to see if it has a CR-23 socket (10-pin) or CR-31 socket (8-pin)...
 
Heres some pictures of the Neckboard, at least of the labeling. I'm not sure if it is CR-23

But heres the deal, the Tube has 8 pins (minus the 1 for the Flyback), and the neckboard seems to only use 8 pins (minus the 1 for the flyback), the other pin slots are empty or not soldered to anything on the neckboard.


DSC00212.jpg

DSC00216.jpg


The neckboard matches the chasis for sure, they both are labeled KS-10, but is that compatible with the tube?
 
Your tube's fine. It'll fit.

Can you post a pic of the degauss connector and the pins on the chassis?

Heres the pictures, it was the only thing that was un-connected on the monitor when I got it. There was actually 2 Dag wires, one to the braided cable strapped to the tube, and one to the ground plate that surrounds the flyback and acts as the heat sync for IC4.

DSC00222.jpg

DSC00224.jpg


Anyways, it won't fit, the actual connector is to small for the pins on the chasis, I know degaussing coils can be changed, not surgically attached to the tube.
 
Yeah, you have a cr-23 neck socket.

You don't have to change the degaussing coil, just the connector. If you can find one that fits those pins, cut the other connector off and attach the connector that fits...
 
Well I just got my ISO transformer from TwistedQuarter today and I just need to re-wire the cabinet switch and cord into it and I'll run a test on the monitor as soon as possible. Still working on the degaussing coil connector though.....
 
New Updates!

Finally got her hooked up and running and she runs great! Might of been their improper wiring before or because the damage on the original game board. Well when he told me he thought the monitor was not working with the game.......

DSC00234.jpg



Been tweaking the color for a while now, no adjustments to the convergence...that looks fine so that saves me a lot of time. At first the brightness was too low for the screen to be seen and on top of that the switching power supply that came in this rig is faulty. The +5v is reading 4.21, and the +12v was like 10.09 or something......too low (even though +5v could be adjusted) so I was getting garbage on the screen first, swapped it out with my good one and BAM! It works just fine.

Except for 2 minor issues.

- Degaussing Coil is still unplugged so there is a little bending near the bottom you can see on the white brightness bar in the picture. And I don't have a manual degaussing wand. So hopefully that will work out fine when I get that adjusted.

- The X-Position adjustment pot is at it's max to have the screen lowered, and there is still just a tad bit of the top being chopped off. Could just be the game, my good final fight board, causing this issue or something else?
 
Shrink your horizontal size and it should be fine. And if you adjust the +5 on that power supply to 5v the +12 will probably be in the right range as well.
 
Back
Top Bottom