Well that was dumb......

adams_arcade

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Donor 2012, 2023
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Repaired chassis worked great ... placed in game hooked everything up ... left game a few sec ... plugged it in and zap zap zap.... Yah forgot to connect the damn anode cap.....Dead monitor....^&%&^%&^%%*&

No idea how tough of a fix this one is.....
 
anode was laying on top of chassis and shot towards chassis....I see no damage so I guess the fly and hot might be dead. no neck glow. How the fuse is still good ... kills me
 
Is it safe to say i probably blew out the flyback?
 
Thats the thing I see no scorch anywhere...Everything looks fine.
 
Man that sucks. I did it once, with the back door off. IT WAS LIKE STAR WARS. The fucking anode cap was actually moving around in the air, while a huge 1/2" thick light saber of electron whatever the hell that is moved around in the air, like a snake, about a foot long and shorted itself into the power supply. Unbelieveably it didn't fry anything on mine, but I agree with the others, whatever it was hitting was probably what got fried.
 
Man that sucks. I did it once, with the back door off. IT WAS LIKE STAR WARS. The fucking anode cap was actually moving around in the air, while a huge 1/2" thick light saber of electron whatever the hell that is moved around in the air, like a snake, about a foot long and shorted itself into the power supply. Unbelieveably it didn't fry anything on mine, but I agree with the others, whatever it was hitting was probably what got fried.

Now that is funny....I don't care who you are ..........

Thanks for the laugh need it today!
 
I did this too, and my star wars survived, but the cap was far away from everything

Electrically, the spark will head to the lowest point IE: Gng or -24V if applic

Not that there is much difference between -24V and +24V when it comes to 25,000+ Volts anyway
 
Hot?

Did you get it going again?

Does Q703 check good?
even with a shorted hot the
power led and micro should still work.
Unless the power supply isn't working.


Is the Power Led lit on the control board?
Does the degausser relay click when
pluged in?

In normal operation the voltages from the power supply
for the systems control circuits like the control baord and micro
get the 5'vs for micro and 12vs for the degausser relay rl501 at plugin
the 12vs is at the relay and the micro send a pulse to the base of the
relay driver transistor in turn closing the relay and a click can be heard.
This happens very quick then the micro switchs off the relay after a quick
degauss for the tube.

Things to think about with newer or multi resolution models and will help
to decide what circuits do work during trouble shooting.
Micros are not in standard/dual res monitors and don't have deguasser relays.
The multi res models have a different electical flow.
To work on them you need to understand how they work.
If you have power led and hear the relay click.

This would indicate that you have some
if not all secondary voltages, Like the 12vs and 5v's.
And B+ because they come from the power supply.
The color or changing colors of the led can tell you
something about the circuits.

Any faint ticking from power supply?
This would indicate that the power supply B+ is drawing to much current
and need to clear a short.
Odds are the flyback is still good.
Good Luck!
 
Based on what you wrote and our checking things over ...
We agree the hot and fly check out good and strongly suspect the power supply is dead.
 
Current Limiting Resistor?

Based on what you wrote and our checking things over ...
We agree the hot and fly check out good and strongly suspect the power supply is dead.

Ok, If no primary drive in SMPS or no secondary voltages
then I would suspect
R526 a very low ohm resistor .15 ohm a 2 watt resistor
less then a half of a ohm
off the mosfet q504 or both have failed..
Pull the resistor, ohm it out of circuit and inspect the body
of resistor for any damage.
Its important to be a certain ohm..to high or open is a issue.
Zero your ohm meter read the ohms when you short the
probes together..this is your ohm meter resistance..
this will show in the readings and needs to be subtracted
from the ohm of the part being tested, to get the true ohms of the part.
If no drive pulse then i would suspect these parts first
and the fuse is good.
 
Had a k7000 that someone did the same thing to.. Both chips needed to be replaced, and hot.. Good luck man, its a pain to track down.
 
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