Weld or Bondo? Advice Request

csnow

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I have a Super Pac-Man control panel that I am replacing the overlay. This panel had two overlays on it. One was a base black overlay that provided a survace to cover these indentions that hold the studs for the controller with the standard overlay laid on top. My replacement overlay is too thin for this CP the way it is. Would you use bondo on these areas or take it to a welder to get these holes filled and ground flat?
 

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Scuff and clean them good then bondo and sand flat.
I would even prime the panel before placing the overlay.
 
Fill it with lead!

(I'm guessing that no old school car/body shop people are here. Lead was the pre-bondo fix.)
 
Use JB Weld instead.

It will fill and flow/flatten better. (Put tape over the hole to contain it if needed). Sands easily, and will be more durable in the end.

I like Bondo for wood repair/filling, but for metal CP/coin door repairs, JB Weld all the way. (And for bigger repairs, you can JB Weld pieces of metal over holes to patch them, then fill and sand any remaining depressions, etc.)
 
Use JB Weld instead.

It will fill and flow/flatten better. (Put tape over the hole to contain it if needed). Sands easily, and will be more durable in the end.

I like Bondo for wood repair/filling, but for metal CP/coin door repairs, JB Weld all the way. (And for bigger repairs, you can JB Weld pieces of metal over holes to patch them, then fill and sand any remaining depressions, etc.)

For something like that bondo is just fine. There is no structural stress involved.
JB weld was never used in bodywork and bondo,if done right is fine.
My Gramps was a bodyman and used lead when he first started in the trade.
Bondo by the way was developed to adhere to and repair metal.
 
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Use JB Weld instead.

It will fill and flow/flatten better. (Put tape over the hole to contain it if needed). Sands easily, and will be more durable in the end.

I like Bondo for wood repair/filling, but for metal CP/coin door repairs, JB Weld all the way. (And for bigger repairs, you can JB Weld pieces of metal over holes to patch them, then fill and sand any remaining depressions, etc.)

I'm with ya 100% on this. It's also MACHINABLE once it hardens which is nice. (Bondo can be sanded but try to drill/mill it and it will likely crack/chip)
 
My preference is for the JB Weld. I've used it for similar repairs and it's so much easier to work with, especially on CP's.
 
For something like that bondo is just fine. There is no structural stress involved.
JB weld was never used in bodywork and bondo,if done right is fine.
My Gramps was a bodyman and used lead when he first started in the trade.
Bondo by the way was developed to adhere to and repair metal.


Mind you I'm not saying Bondo can't work. But having used both, for small holes and repairs on CP's and coin doors, I just like JB Weld better.

For filling large voids and shaping surfaces (e.g., on something like a car, or a cab repair, etc), Bondo is definitely better.


Also kspiff, good point on using a welder for powder coated parts. That's definitely important.
 
I have a Super Pac-Man control panel that I am replacing the overlay. This panel had two overlays on it. One was a base black overlay that provided a survace to cover these indentions that hold the studs for the controller with the standard overlay laid on top. My replacement overlay is too thin for this CP the way it is. Would you use bondo on these areas or take it to a welder to get these holes filled and ground flat?

I guess I'm missing something here. If you fill in the "holes" where the stud sits you are still going to have little bumps in the CP for each of the studs. The way I read your description the black base overlay was used to "level up" the CP so that when the actual game overlay was placed on top the CP would be smooth. I.e. the black base overlay had cutouts for each of the bumps and acted as a leveling compound.

Is your plan to bondo over the entire CP so that it is smooth?
 
I guess I'm missing something here. If you fill in the "holes" where the stud sits you are still going to have little bumps in the CP for each of the studs. The way I read your description the black base overlay was used to "level up" the CP so that when the actual game overlay was placed on top the CP would be smooth. I.e. the black base overlay had cutouts for each of the bumps and acted as a leveling compound.

Is your plan to bondo over the entire CP so that it is smooth?

No, the studs are sunk into the CP. There is nothing sticking up. I will try the JB weld. I would have never thought of that.
 
No, the studs are sunk into the CP. There is nothing sticking up.

Ha! funny, I didn't see it that way until you pointed that out and then my brain adjusted to depress them into the plate.

Are the studs tack welded to the CP? Would hate to bump them afterward and pop out the filler.
 
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