Weird thing on G07 Recap

Peale

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I'm recapping a G07 CBO and I had the weirdest thing happen.

I was pulling caps when I encountered a 470uf 16V cap - obviously an original cap. Kids distracted me for a few minutes, and when I went back I couldn't find where it went - all the holes were filled, but NONE of them were a cap of this value.

Went over the cap list, and this value isn't even on there.

It is on there for a G07 CAO, but this isn't it.

Factory screw-up, or something else?

Also, I note for caps C517 and C518 they're supposed to be 25V caps, but for whatever reason there are 16V caps in the kit. Were the originals 16V? I'd look, except I already tossed them. The parts list in the manual seems to skip right over those two for some reason.
 
Yeah, the originals were 16v. If you have keystoning issues, you can make them both 220uf also.

As for the 470uf, I was working on a dead K7000 25" chassis today and found someone had removed a jumper wire and soldered a 100uf 35v cap from one spot of the jumper to a nearby resistor. As it wasn't done well, I pulled it off, put the jumper back in, completed my rebuild (and fixed all the bad solder) and it fired up with a perfect picture. I guess someone tried to mod it to fix some issue over the years rather than do it right...
 
It's the weirdest thing - it's clearly factory, and quite old. Looks like the monitor had one capkit in its lifetime (as evidenced by the old caps like that one and obviously newer caps).

I'm just going to chalk it up to "something strange" and move on. When I fire it up and it doesn't work, then I'll worry about it.
 
Yeah, the originals were 16v. If you have keystoning issues, you can make them both 220uf also.

As for the 470uf, I was working on a dead K7000 25" chassis today and found someone had removed a jumper wire and soldered a 100uf 35v cap from one spot of the jumper to a nearby resistor. As it wasn't done well, I pulled it off, put the jumper back in, completed my rebuild (and fixed all the bad solder) and it fired up with a perfect picture. I guess someone tried to mod it to fix some issue over the years rather than do it right...

Damn Mod....I just did a 25" K7000 yesterday.....with the exact same modification....(I assume) jumper wire cut and positive side of cap soldered in it.....negative side of cap going to R54. In my case I replaced this cap with a new one (while doing an entire cap kit)....mine fired up fine, also. I wonder if it was a factory hack? My chassis had been "heavily" modded....jumper wire, resistors, and crap added everywhere.

Edward
 
It's the weirdest thing - it's clearly factory, and quite old. Looks like the monitor had one capkit in its lifetime (as evidenced by the old caps like that one and obviously newer caps).

I'm just going to chalk it up to "something strange" and move on. When I fire it up and it doesn't work, then I'll worry about it.


I just had thid same thing happen a couple nights ago, the cap was in location C517
 
Okay...I went to fire this up, and F901 blew BLACK. No solder bridges that I can see, HOT seems to test okay...suggestions?
 
Still poking at this.

HOT is reading 7.5K ohms with black lead to frame and red to case. That says "high resistance" to me.

On another (working) unit it's reading in the mega-ohms. Clearly higher resistance.

Blown HOT?
 
I finally just swapped out the HOT. It's reading identical to the one I replaced. So it's a good HOT...what else can cause F901 to blow?
 
solder bridges, other shorted parts like resistors in the HV circuit, flyback....
 
No solder bridges, brand new flyback...I guess I'll just start testing for shorted parts and work my way across the board.
 
It was the HOT. It was testing fine, both in and out of circuit. Once it was replaced it fired right up.

I used the "lightbulb" trick on the fuse for the first time - neat tool! I was fully expecting a really bright bulb, but it came on nice and slow.
 
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