Weird cap issue with 15v2000...

Zennmaster

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Hi All -

Tonight I sat down to re-cap the monitor in my Battlezone Cabaret, which is a WG 15v2000.

As I was waiting for my iron to warm up, I opened up the excellent Ian Kellogg cap kit that I had ordered for the project and started to look at the map of the deflection board. This monitor is the version that has the contrast pot right in the middle, so it was a bit different from the version that Ian has diagrammed, but that was not really a big deal. What got my attention, and is currently giving me pause, is that it looks like at some point in the past, someone recapped the monitor, but didn't use electrolytic caps!


Here is the layout of the deflection board:

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In this image are caps C500, 502, and 503, which are specified to be electrolytic caps in the WG manual, but sure don't look like electrolytics to me. 504 is here also, and looks fine.

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Here's what came in the cap kit, which matches what I have seen in the other 15V2000 that I have recapped recently.

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Before I rip them out and put the right ones in, I am very curious if anyone has seen this before? Is this some weird mod that I don't know about? My concern, of course, is that I will put the cap kit in and then the thing won't work. My further concern is that this thing has somehow made it this far, but is about to explode.

So am I safe installing the correct caps from the kit?

Thanks very much!
 

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The originals on the G05, v2000, as well as the 6100's were typically tantalum caps, which is what those are.

They're replaced with electrolytics in kits today. In some cases they may also be upgraded in size. I believe the stock ones in the v2000 are 0.47uF/35V, and the recommended upgrade is 1uF/50V. (I think this is the case for the 6100 as well.) Not sure what Ian is supplying, but I think that's what is recommended in the FAQ.
 
Also, while you're upgrading that board, you should remove the two large resistors at the top (R100, R101), and replace them with straight pieces of wire. They were removed from later versions of the design, and do little more than pump off a boatload of heat, which cooks the other components around them. (See my recent thread about this, post #33 on.)


http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=356350&page=4
 
The originals on the G05, v2000, as well as the 6100's were typically tantalum caps, which is what those are.

They're replaced with electrolytics in kits today. In some cases they may also be upgraded in size. I believe the stock ones in the v2000 are 0.47uF/35V, and the recommended upgrade is 1uF/50V. (I think this is the case for the 6100 as well.) Not sure what Ian is supplying, but I think that's what is recommended in the FAQ.

All of that is exactly what I am seeing. 0.47uF/35V, and Ian's replacements are 1uF/50V.

Thanks so much, as always! (The reason I'm doing this, of course, is because BZ is running so well, it deserves to finally be rid of those little monitor issues! ;) )
 
Also, while you're upgrading that board, you should remove the two large resistors at the top (R100, R101), and replace them with straight pieces of wire. They were removed from later versions of the design, and do little more than pump off a boatload of heat, which cooks the other components around them. (See my recent thread about this, post #33 on.)


http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=356350&page=4

Will do, thanks again!
 
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