Wei-Ya CH825HR Install Help... PICS

ricepatrol

New member
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Texas
Hi Guys,
I've been lurking for the past few years, and decided to bite the bullet and get a project. I picked up a Turtles in Time at an auction, and here we are.

The monitor came without a chassis. I ordered the 825HR from Alva Amusements per Ken's suggestions on numerous threads. Like everything I've bought from Wei-Ya, it has no instructions or diagrams.

I've spent 7+ hours researching this monitor stuff alone, (Klov and arcadecontrols, Bob Roberts pages, arcarc, etc.) and I've reached a dead end in what I can decipher myself. I've attached pictures which characterize my current setup. I'm hoping that these will help illustrate what I have done, and help in answering my questions. If you see something wired incorrectly, please let me know!

Picture 1 shows the tube ribbon ground. I attached the included new plug onto the old ribbon. It plugs into the neck board as seen in Picture 2.

Picture 3 shows the AC wires coming out of the chassis.
How can I tell which one is hot and which one is neutral?
The wires aren't colored. On one wire is small white writing which lists the specs of the wire. There are no other indications on the wire or plug. I would guess that the wire with the writing would be neutral? I want to ensure that connect them to the corresponding correct position on the transformer.

Picture 4 shows the yoke plugs; the currently connected yoke plug, and the new included plug. I see no reason to use the new plug, however I've read that some Eygo (Wei-Ya) chassis require curring this plug, and changing it's position. A cursory glance would tell me that I need to switch the brown and yellow positions, such that they correspond with the new plug. Is that correct? Or do I leave it alone?

Picture 5 shows the pins where the yoke plugs into the chassis board. Upon reading a few of Ken's posts, it appears that having 2 spots is for mirroring the image. I'll try one spot, and if it doesn't work, I need to power down and switch to the other spot.

Picture 6 shows how I've earth grounded the monitor frame. After reading a ton of threads on grounding issues, I'm cautious. If I screw the monitor chassis onto the frame, and I have metal on metal contact, will this be okay? As far as I understand, I'll be earth grounding the chassis housing.

Picture 7 is a tough one. It shows an open slot on the chassis, where I believe the degaussing plug should go. I hadn't noticed it at first, because the dangling red wire to the right was plugged into the bottom (IIRC) pin. If I remove the red wire as shown in the picture, and plug the degaussing cable (orientation on this doesn't matter, since it isn't polarized; correct?) into this slot, what do I do with the dangling red wire?

Picture 8 displays the overal scene of what I'm working with.

I apologize for the barrage of questions; I'm beyond my expertise here. (I'm a mechanical and aerospace engineer by trade, so I've only had minor training in the EE field)
It appears to me that KLOV is the gathering place for some of the most knowledgeable people in the arcade field, period.

Thanks!!!

J.Michael
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    84.2 KB · Views: 52
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 43
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    87.5 KB · Views: 41
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    83.6 KB · Views: 45
  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    92.7 KB · Views: 46
Pictures 6-8
 

Attachments

  • 6.jpg
    6.jpg
    73.1 KB · Views: 29
  • 7.jpg
    7.jpg
    89.6 KB · Views: 40
  • 8.jpg
    8.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 35
Yoke plug will be ok to try like that, and I think your right the one connection on the board will mirror the image

Power cord, both are hot and polarity wont matter, the neutral comes from grounding the frame to the machine or wall socket

The chassis may need an Isolation transformer

The red wires are the degauss, no polarity either. Should be two wires going to the socket or plgin area on the board

The black wire is a ground for the focus wire


Your real close.. but I would figure out if it needs an ISO transformer first.
 
OK... I just powered it up... and it turned on!!!
The screen was flipped vertically, AND horizontally. I turned it back off, unplugged the yoke plug and moved it to the next slot. Powered it back up, and now the vertical orientation is correct, but it's still flipped horizontally. I broke apart the plug, and swapped the horizontal wires, and voila.

After messing with trying to tune the screen, I think I've got it to the best that it's gonna get. I played with the brightness and focus on the chassis board, the R, G, and B which are mounted on the board by the video inputs, the RGB on the neckboard, AND the remote tuning board.

Here are my observations:
-I was battling the top part of the screen to keep it from slanting left or right. I sort of found a happy medium.
-With the horizontal width turned all the way down, it's still too wide...
What can I do about that?
-I have absolutely no blue input. Blue is cranked all the way up on both the neck board and the chassis board.
Why would that be? Any ideas on how to fix it?

Attached are some screen shots. You can see that Donatello (who should be purple) is completely Red, and you can get an idea of what I'm working with.
 

Attachments

  • screen.jpg
    screen.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 31
  • color.jpg
    color.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 34
  • in game 1.jpg
    in game 1.jpg
    98.7 KB · Views: 36
  • in game 2.jpg
    in game 2.jpg
    94.8 KB · Views: 34
Is a rejuvenantor the only shot? Anything else as a substitute?
I don't have one, and it seems that they're pretty expensive.

I don't suppose someone in Houston has one...
 
Back
Top Bottom