Weak knocker

LongJohns

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Ok, it is working but one can hardly hear it. Currently it is using a N-26-1000 coil and seems to be free moving - could I use say a N-26-850 or is this not recommended.

Thanks
 
Maybe one of the vets can correct me here if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that be a weaker coil? Or is it backwards, and more turns = less power?

If nothing else, if your machine has a solenoid test, can always use that to look at how it's actually working, see if maybe the linkages are getting snagged on something not obvious. Oddly enough, both machines I've bought had them compeltely disconnected by the owners! Space Shuttle the wires looked like they were torn off the bell solenoid (No knocker..) and Pinbot's were clearly cut. Fixed Space Shuttle after finding a way to quiet down the bell (it's still pretty loud), and have tested pinbot by holding the wire up to it...works fine, just needs to be re-attached.
 
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The quieter the better as far as I'm concerned. I once had a star wars that would make you shit your pants when it went off. No thank you
 
Ok, it is working but one can hardly hear it. Currently it is using a N-26-1000 coil and seems to be free moving - could I use say a N-26-850 or is this not recommended.

Thanks

The middle number is the gauge of wire (26 in both cases), the last number is the # of turns around the coil. The higher the number of turns, the more resistance, and that means less power.

Step 1: Look up the correct solenoid in the manual (what game is it?). Change if necessary.
Step 2: Check the mechanics of the knocker. How is the coil sleeve? Can it be removed?
Step 3: Is there supposed a strike plate for the knocker to hit and you are missing it?
 
The quieter the better as far as I'm concerned. I once had a star wars that would make you shit your pants when it went off. No thank you

I actually laughed out loud reading that... I have had machines with some stupid loud knockers (sega's) and some with really weak/goofy sounding knockers (gottlieb)
 
Walked in a bar to repair a machine once, turned it on and it let out the 3 loudest cracks
( tech alert ) I've ever heard a knocker make. A waitress dropped a tray of beers and hid under a table!! She thought someone opened fire! Needless to say I had to turn off that option.
 
It is an EM game so software testing is out. ;) I can watch it work by setting up certain conditions on the machine, so that is not really an issue.

The middle number is the gauge of wire (26 in both cases), the last number is the # of turns around the coil. The higher the number of turns, the more resistance, and that means less power.

Step 1: Look up the correct solenoid in the manual (what game is it?). Change if necessary.
Step 2: Check the mechanics of the knocker. How is the coil sleeve? Can it be removed?
Step 3: Is there supposed a strike plate for the knocker to hit and you are missing it?

It has the correct coil as per the manual and the sleeve is ok and all parts are there. The plunger is free moving and does not seem to bind at all. I have taken it apart and gave it a good cleaning, but that didn't help.

You can hear it if you are listing for it, but you really have to listen - the only way you know if you have a 'free game' is to look at the credit wheel. Just be nice to hear it as I like the full 'arcade' experience. :D

So I would assume then that there is no downside to swapping out the coil to a stronger one then or is the jump from 1000 turns to 850 too much?

While on the subject the first letter of a coil denote what exactly? I haven't found any info specific to this, everything I have seem so far just talks about the gage and number of wraps numbers (which I am aware of).

Thanks
 
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I like 'em loud, my High Speed and Indiana Jones will get your attention when they knock! Cracks me up when you have people over who "match" when the game is over, but don't know what that sound was...amateurs...LOL
I've got another machine that you can barely hear it, and one that stopped knocking altogether...one of these days I'll attempt to repair, but repair gets in the way of play!!!
 
Here's a good read about the coils:
http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html

What game is it? Maybe we can find a little more juice for it , or at least clean up the contacts that are making it crack.

There may be some good info there, but for the life of me, I can't see it through the white-on-white Background/Text background filled with logos crap. Wow, that's godawful. Also looks like on their front page they stole the picture of PBL's high gloss pinballs. LOL.
 
Here's a good read about the coils:
http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html

What game is it? Maybe we can find a little more juice for it , or at least clean up the contacts that are making it crack.

Hi, yes I have seen that site. ;)

As for the game it is a CC Hollywood, I have a thread here with another issue, http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=219044 , but it has a link to the schematic if needed. I have cleaned the contacts, but was just figuring that a weak knocker is maybe just normal for this make of game.
 
With a little creative wiring you could up the voltage to the coil. Have you looked into lengthening or shortening the distance the plunger travels before striking the box/plate??
 
With a little creative wiring you could up the voltage to the coil. Have you looked into lengthening or shortening the distance the plunger travels before striking the box/plate??

I have placed some flat bar along the strike plate to shorten the gap and it didn't seem to make a difference (can't physically move the strike plate as it is welded). But also according to the website at the link posted making the travel distance also reduces the force of the strike (I suppose there would be a 'sweet' spot as it would have the same effect if the gap starts to become too large).

Looks like I will just try a different coil and see what happens. ;)
 
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