Water damaged cab....WWYD?

[sohchx]

A dedicated Contra would be worth restoring in my book. If the cab seems solid and the price is right you should go for it. Some wood hardener and paint and it could be a really solid cab.

If I were to sand the swelling down to be even could I get away with just applying the hardener to the damaged area after sanding. I am unfamiliar with how hardener works.

 

[Phetishboy]

If I were to sand the swelling down to be even could I get away with just applying the hardener to the damaged area after sanding. I am unfamiliar with how hardener works.

Minnwax hardener works well. Get rid of all the loose particles first, then brush it on. When sanding the sides flat, periodically run a T-square down the sides on edge, to keep the plane true. I used that method on this cab:

Before:

After:

 

[Tornadoboy]

Okay, I was really wondering how I would bond the new pieces to the sides of the cab while keeping them flush at the same time. I would assume nail and glue the sides, then fill the seam with bondo.

Using wood biscuits and glue to join both pieces is the best way, if done right it'll make the alignment perfect and the joining very, very strong. What you do is cut slots in the edges of both pieces to be joined and use little wooden ovals (biscuits) in between with glue. That's how Cadillacman fixed the Tron and how I'm fixing my Buck Rogers, the only problem is that it requires a power tool that costs like $50+ if you don't already have one, but it's a handy tool to have for other projects regardless and anybody whom works with wood should have one.

Take a good look at it though, you might not have to get that fancy and that's only needed if the wood is totally hopeless.

 

[metahugh]

Okay, I was really wondering how I would bond the new pieces to the sides of the cab while keeping them flush at the same time. I would assume nail and glue the sides, then fill the seam with bondo.

You would find that info in the other threads I mentioned The search tool does work pretty good.

 

[metahugh]

Minnwax hardener works well. Get rid of all the loose particles first, then brush it on. When sanding the sides flat, periodically run a T-square down the sides on edge, to keep the plane true. I used that method on this cab:

Before:

After:

I like Phets method. You need some better pictures to determine exactly how bad it is, it's hard to tell from that small picture included in this thread.

 

[rmackie6661]

What's the asking price???

 

[DanoND]

would it be possible to completely replace the bottom?

I'm doing that now, on a Galaga no less. I just cut the front and the bottom out, and need to make a new door. Not going to reattach the pieces the same way Midway did originally. No strength.

If you're handy with tools, get it and fix it up. It's just not a big deal, nor is it all that much time committed.

 

[Tornadoboy]

Here's a direct link to the restored Tron I keep yapping about, it's an extreme example but it shows what can be done with even the worst damaged cab.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=109769

 

[sohchx]

What's the asking price???

$100 but I'm gonna try for $50

 

[Tornadoboy]

I'd grab it for $75 and below, especially if it works initially. Restoration projects can be fun and rewarding, plus you learn a lot of useful things along the way.

 

[ZEN]

I agree, buy that sucker, I have fixed far worse, and the wood hardner does work, sand apply, resand apply skim with bondo if you are not totally happy or, like I have done in the past, use a sheet of laminate, looks great, no bumbs and hard as hell....

 

[Tornadoboy]

Yeah drop whatever you're doing and go get it, right now, this instant, WE COMMAND YOU!

If you do try to restore it keep us informed in the restoration thread, I'd love to see how it goes.

 

[sohchx]

Ok well, I picked the game up saturday. I haggled and told him that I would have to pass on it if he could not cut a better deal. He asked what I thought it was worth and I guess I took too long to tell him and it's a good thing because then he said,just take it. I thought SWEET!! My first free cab!! The water damage is pretty extensive but just like he said, oddly only the sides are swollen and not the bottom. It looks like a mossy forest underneath lol. The wood panelling seems to have been made in layers of three which is evident from the swelling but the outer layers are very soft and the center not so much. I assumed it would be the consistency of oatmeal but we dragged it all over the place on its bottom and surprisingly not a single piece fell off of it. I spent an hour last night dousing it with 5 layers of Lysol, tonight I will be using a bleach spray. I'll post pics this evening.

 

[Tornadoboy]

Awesome! You may want to try this stuff too which I got from Home Depot, it seems to do a pretty good job on mold:

 

[sohchx]

Awesome! You may want to try this stuff too which I got from Home Depot, it seems to do a pretty good job on mold:

So what's the process using it consist of? Spray it on and let it work, or spray it on and scrape away the mold?

 

[Tornadoboy]

So what's the process using it consist of? Spray it on and let it work, or spray it on and scrape away the mold?

I think you just spray it on and supposedly it kills the mold and leaves a residue to keep it from coming back, but I don't think it does much to actually clean off debris. Personally I'd wash it down like you were talking about and then give it a final coating of the mold killer, then let it dry with that on it.

 

[sohchx]

well here is what rep from their company says.......

my name is Brad and I am with Siamons International, the manufacturer of Concrobium Mold Control®. I thought it might help if I addressed your questions directly.

Your first question is whether Concrobium Mold Control just "encapsulates" mold, which implies that the solution just "covers" or "traps" the mold. Some antimicrobial solutions are just 'encapsulants', but Concrobium Mold Control goes further than encapsulation; as it dries over the moldy surface it forms an antimicrobial shield that actually eliminates the mold and mildew underneath.

Your second question regards the need for re-application. In addition to eliminating mold, Concrobium Mold Control stays on surfaces – in the form of an invisible antimicrobial shield – to prevent mold and mildew growth. As long as that shield is intact, the treated surface retains a protective barrier that will prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Reapplication is only necessary if that barrier is removed or covered with a new surface. So if the surface receives constant dousing with water (e.g. a shower stall), or resurfaced (painted) or becomes very soiled, it is recommended that the Concrobium Mold Control be reapplied. Otherwise reapplication should not be required.

Your third question regards the ingredients of Concrobium Mold Control. You are correct that the solution is 0.95% sodium carbonate, but there are two other ingredients which, combined with the sodium carbonate and the water, result in this unique, patented solution that eliminates and prevents mold. The solution contains no bleach, ammonia or VOCs. Our Material Safety Data Sheet is posted on our web site: http://www.concrobium.com/US/advantage.html.

Your final question asked whether the product is EPA-registered or EPA-approved. The answer is the former: Concrobium Mold Control is EPA-registered, which means that our science has been reviewed by the EPA and that we are allowed to make the claims that the product eliminates and prevents mold. Note that any manufacturer who claims that their product eliminates or prevents mold WITHOUT EPA registration is breaking the law. To the point about EPA "approval", it is our understanding that the EPA does not "approve" or "endorse" antimicrobial products, so "registration" is the only term that applies in this situation.

 

[Tornadoboy]

Well... you could also leave the mold and make like a Chia-Arcade game?

 

[sohchx]

I just bought some of the concrobium and will be using it tonight. Fingers crossed.........