Warlords - ROM Error

FrizzleFried

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I picked up a Warlords upright in very nice shape... at least physically. Internally it has a few minor (I suspect) issues.

First off, the left player control pot only works about 20%... the right player control pot works about 80%... unfortunately I can't put `em together to make a single working one. :) If anyone knows a source for said pots off the top of their head, please let me know.

The other issue I'm hoping is an easy fix is that I some graphic corruption and a ROM error. I suspect it's just a sprite ROM as gameplay and sound seem to be fine (but keep in mind this is my first Warlords!). I am attaching a screenshot as well as a screenshot of the test screen. It does say BAD BA6 at the top line, but the chip at B6 (there is no BA6 that I am aware of?) isn't a socketed chip and based on it's size I suspect it's not a ROM.

Suggestions?
 

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I don't think WL is that smart (i.e. identify specific faulty chips).
I suspect it is trying to say:

BAD RAM
ROM OK

RAM is bad and it cannot "spell" "RAM"; so it types "BA6".
Check RAM by piggy-backing. Use logic probe to see if logic into RAM is good/bad.

Some WL PCBs I've fixed have damage to the smaller traces. Look for that too.
Are all the RAM soldered in (or have some been socketed)?
 
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Your buddy CossackWarrior worked with the original manufacturer of the clutch-slip POTs and did some reproductions. Contact him if you need two NEW ones.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=325251&highlight=warlords

NOTE: ohm out the pots first; perhaps the LM339 are bad on the logic board? Also swap out the POKEY for a known good one and see if there is any improvement.
 
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I don't think WL is that smart (i.e. identify specific faulty chips).
I suspect it is trying to say:

BAD RAM
ROM OK

RAM is bad and it cannot "spell" "RAM"; so it types "BA6".
Check RAM by piggy-backing.

You gotta remember... I'm a hack at best...

(a) Which IC's are the RAM?
(b) By "piggyback" I assume I am to find another RAM IC then solder it to the top of the original? Or am I just to touch the good RAM to the tops of the original RAMS to find out which is bad? I suspect perhaps the latter... however not having a test bench with monitor to work at makes it difficult.
(c) Are the RAM chips soldered? How many? Is shotgunning a viable option?

THANKS!
 
piggybacking does not require soldering. Just sticking them on top of the existing one with all the pins lined up. If that fixes your problem, then the existing one was bad and you should replace it. if nothing changes, unpiggyback them and go to the next one. :)
 
The playfield seems to be drawn nicely (can't see the graphic corruption as described), so the PF 2101A RAM might be OK. These are the main failure points for WL.
The CPU 2114 might not if it does not play. But it does. WL is very cryptic with its RAM/ROM self-test. :(
 
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The playfield seems to be drawn nicely (can't see the graphic corruption as described), so the PF 2101A RAM might be OK. These are the main failure points for WL.
The CPU 2114 might not if it does not play. But it does. WL is very cryptic with its RAM/ROM self-test. :(

There are numbers in the left top and bottom castles (rather than graphics).... Also the faces are slightly messed up. I also notice words are misspelled or spelled like PLA2ER .... etc...
 
Here's a better photo of the graphic corruption...

attachment.php
 

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mine had three bad ram, ended up pulling and socketing all of them in the process
sounds like your pokey is bad or its socket is bad if it is socketed, these pots are usually quite robust and would only need a cleaning
 
mine had three bad ram, ended up pulling and socketing all of them in the process
sounds like your pokey is bad or its socket is bad if it is socketed, these pots are usually quite robust and would only need a cleaning

What does the Pokey do (is it relation to the controls?)...

EDIT: I just googled and sure enough... controls. OK... the left side will get some movement at one side, and then nothing and when I get to the other extreme the paddle moves to the extreme opposite side on screen. The Right side works most of the way with a flaky spot about 1" wide (on screen) at the top (rather than the side) of the castle. Does that sound more like a POT or POKEY issue (or do they present the same way when going bad?).

Might be best to just shotgun the RAM?

How robust is the PCB? What I mean is... I'm pretty much all thumbs when it comes to PCB desoldering... I can manage to get through a capkit without much difficulty, but sockets (especially) are a pain in the ass for me. IC's are a little easier as I can cut them out and pull each leg.

This is starting to sound like a "might be best to send out for repair" kind of situation... anyone know who works on Warlords PCBs?
 
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atari boards of this era are delicate - not really one to learn on when it comes to removing chips, if you have a known working pokey (from a centipede or what ever with a track ball or optic) swap it out and see if the problem goes away

lots of peeps here do repair these
 
If it does turn out to be the pots, I have the exact NOS pots Atari used in stock. From what Vectorcollector taught me, it sounds like the hokey pokey. :)
 
I suspect that I can determine if it's the pokey by cleaning the pots. If I get ZERO improvement... it's the pokey. Right?
 
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