Warlords cocktail power brick

$200.

But they're only needed if you really want to run an original 100V monitor.

If you put a regular 120V in there, you can run a regular raster brick, by moving some pins around on the harness.
 
you actually need a shielded brick aka cocktail brick, transformer on an UR brick is not magnetically shielded and the raster cocktail bricks are, unless you enjoy the rainbow distortions and in that case just go ahead and use the UR brick
 
Wow, $200?

That makes my recent discovery of having two of these super awesome.

Its almost like the arcade gods are telling me something..
 
you actually need a shielded brick aka cocktail brick, transformer on an UR brick is not magnetically shielded and the raster cocktail bricks are, unless you enjoy the rainbow distortions and in that case just go ahead and use the UR brick.

Have you actually confirmed that firsthand (i.e., that an unshielded brick interferes with the monitor?)
 
you actually need a shielded brick aka cocktail brick, transformer on an UR brick is not magnetically shielded and the raster cocktail bricks are, unless you enjoy the rainbow distortions and in that case just go ahead and use the UR brick
I actually just finished a conversion on my Centipede cocktail table using a raster brick. I don't see any distortions or anything of that sort after leaving the monitor on for about 20 or 30 mins. I'm unfamiliar with the abbreviation but what is "UR" and is that any different than the raster brick I used in my conversion?

The details of the conversion were discussed in this post: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/th...l-transformer-help.482005/page-2#post-4277234

You also happened to comment on it early, but you didn't seem to have the concerns. Is this specific to Warlord or would it affect all cocktails using similar setups?
 
FWIW - for what it's worth ... my WL CT brick is shielded. :)
Here's an early pic during its restoration ->

WLbrick.md.jpg
 
Is that copper band around the brick the shielding? If so, then the brick I just put in does have it.

No. All bricks have that copper strip. It's just painted on some of them.

The shielding is more of a plastic-looking coating that is on the main iron of the transformer. Unshielded ones look like painted metal. Shielded ones look plasticized, though I don't know what the actual shielding is. (Maybe just a thin wrapping of something like mu-metal).

I'm still not convinced the shielding does anything, though I'm open to more data. But this case shows that a standard 120V raster brick can be retrofitted into a 100V cocktail with the appropriate wiring mods.
 
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Yes, the EMI shield is copper. Proximity of the magnetic field to the CRT is much worse in a cocktail than an upright.
Here's someone else's pretty pics.

20140510_093207.md.jpg


20140510_093459.md.jpg
 
Yes, the EMI shield is copper. Proximity of the magnetic field to the CRT is much worse in a cocktail than an upright.
Here's someone else's pretty pics.

20140510_093207.md.jpg


20140510_093459.md.jpg

I don't think this is true. All bricks have the copper strip.

Not all of them have the coating. See pics here, particularly the Warlords cocktail brick, vs the others. There's a material wrapped around the iron that the others don't have:

 
So, I got this warlords cocktail,, monitor has massive burn in,, along with reduced Horizontal width on screen, & given where its burn in is located ,, must have been like that for years.
I'd like to try and swap out "the sanyo 100vac monitor assy". Its got a picture tube p/n 370HAB22 (With No swappable candidates exists)&(no definitive schematics exists)I changed all electrolytic caps as well.
I would like a compatible monitor before I start to check all board timing, I checked the clock , 12.096 MHZ. spot on. My limited experience, lots of theses early warlords had horizontal width problems?
SO, can I just swap output pins 12 and 14, on the power brick (037046-01 see attached), to change to 120ac ? ("ANDREW", mentioned this about swapping a couple of wires, turning working warlords CK. with 100vac Sanyo into a warlords with 120vac compatible monitor.
Also , Is the swapping of pin 12 (100vac) OUTPUT , to pin 14 (120vac) considered, changing to an UN isolated AC input for the monitor,, a NO-NO!..
or, how to tell if my replacement monitor (wells garnder) will fuction PROPERLY AND DOESN'T NEED A SAFETY ISOLATED TRANSFORMER or swapping of pins altogether. will run fine on just the 100vac?
"I could try comparing ac output voltages at pins 12 and then14,,,while, swapping the common lead from pin 10 and then to frame ground to see if "isolation" is functioning properly?


http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AR...1st Printing) [Drawing Package] [English].pdf


This thread may help:

 
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