Wanted - 1971 Midway 2020 Motor - Wild Kingdom

Alan173

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Hi,

I have a Midway 2020 50V motor (Multi Products Co.) with a broken
shaft in the gear case. Ideally I would like to be able to just pick
up a replacement shaft but I'm not having much luck finding parts out
there. Anyone have parts or an assembly for sale or know a source for
them? The motor is from a 1971 Midway Wild Kingdom EM shooting game
but I know it was used in a handful of other games so I'm hoping
something will turn up. I can re-make that shaft but the spline is
going to be tricky...counting on an easier way out there.

Picture of the motor is below.

Thanks,

Alan
 

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Alan,

Contact Gary Southward at "Carnival Furniture" in St. Paul, MN. There's a chance he might have something laying around. He has a boatload of working EM games and God knows what he has for parts. Its worth a call. 651-771-7421

Otherwise a machine shop could remake the shaft with the spline; wouldn't be cheap but it would be done right. I'd do it for you if I had the equipment(ex-machinist).
 
Alan,

Contact Gary Southward at "Carnival Furniture" in St. Paul, MN. There's a chance he might have something laying around. He has a boatload of working EM games and God knows what he has for parts. Its worth a call. 651-771-7421

Otherwise a machine shop could remake the shaft with the spline; wouldn't be cheap but it would be done right. I'd do it for you if I had the equipment(ex-machinist).

Thanks for the reply...but I got tired of looking and the post was my last shot at finding something. So I decided to make a shaft myself. Stayed up late last night (never time to do this with little ones and am paying the price today!...Oh well! :). I used 0.125" drill rod to start (the original shaft was not hardened according to a quick check with my Rockwell files)...and then measured the bronze bushings in the gear case. They were worn so when I cut the shaft to length I turned down each end for a running fit of 0.0005"...then put a nice micro finish on them. The gear lash was horrible on the original set up and after tuning in the bushings it is now set just right. Unable to roll such a small/precision spline at home I decided to cut a series of groves on my Bridgeport in the shaft and then prick-punched the area to create a 0.003" interference fit to the gears. With a little 660 Loctite I set them at the exact distance they need to be for a proper fit to the mating gears. The original alignment was off by about 0.020" but not too shabby for an EM game!

So here are a few shots of my progress so far. I just need to re-assemble everything and see if I can get my crocodile running! LOL...wish me luck...

Alan
 

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I used 0.125" drill rod to start (the original shaft was not hardened according to a quick check with my Rockwell files)...and then measured the bronze bushings in the gear case. They were worn so when I cut the shaft to length I turned down each end for a running fit of 0.0005"...then put a nice micro finish on them. The gear lash was horrible on the original set up and after tuning in the bushings it is now set just right. Unable to roll such a small/precision spline at home I decided to cut a series of groves on my Bridgeport in the shaft and then prick-punched the area to create a 0.003" interference fit to the gears. With a little 660 Loctite I set them at the exact distance they need to be for a proper fit to the mating gears. The original alignment was off by about 0.020" but not too shabby for an EM game!
I must say that is impressive to say the least. Very cool indeed my friend. And the simple fact that you've gone to such lengths, all so that you can shoot a fake plastic alligator, makes it all the more cool.

I can't wait to shoot me some fake alligators.
 
I must say that is impressive to say the least. Very cool indeed my friend. And the simple fact that you've gone to such lengths, all so that you can shoot a fake plastic alligator, makes it all the more cool.

I can't wait to shoot me some fake alligators.

LOL! Yep...it sure is easy to quickly see why EM repair is not common or very $$$. Would probably be charged $300 to make the plastic crocodile work....geeeeeesh.

Little more progress to report. Drilled the brass rivets out and split the gear case. Have the new shaft installed and cut some screws to replace them. Had to countersink the screws to make sure the assembly went back together. New shaft is installed...the movement of the gears now seem very sound with smooth action. Here are a few pictures and a couple of quick videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OD5Qn9uLYs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzzTNzbhy3c
 

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LOL! Yep...it sure is easy to quickly see why EM repair is not common or very $$$. Would probably be charged $300 to make the plastic crocodile work....geeeeeesh.

Little more progress to report. Drilled the brass rivets out and split the gear case. Have the new shaft installed and cut some screws to replace them. Had to countersink the screws to make sure the assembly went back together. New shaft is installed...the movement of the gears now seem very sound with smooth action. Here are a few pictures and a couple of quick videos:


**TRIAL RUN** - the crocodile makes a 'very brief' appearance during the first trial run. Look at the bush on the far left. If you blink......you might miss him.....he is one fast crocodile! LOL.....

Work continues....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5qNqT8Q93E

Alan
 
Alan,

Nice job! I didn't realize you had a bridgeport and the "skills". Very impressive, awesome job. Glad to see you got it done....

What kind of lathe do you have?
 
Alan,

Nice job! I didn't realize you had a bridgeport and the "skills". Very impressive, awesome job. Glad to see you got it done....

What kind of lathe do you have?

I actually have two...both South Bends. One has a 9" throw (from the 1940's) and the nice one has a 13" throw (from the 1960's and built like a tank). The cool feature is the larger one has the pin 'gear shifter' for changing speeds but my little one is the manual gear change type. Both have some unique features and are great for projects. Got them re-wired to run on 110v.

I know you have a couple of EM shooter's right? Do your rifles kick-back? Anyways...I discovered last night my game has a 'kick-back' or recoil feature for when you fire the rifle. It wasn't working...but after a quick rebuild it now works perfect! Hilarious to feel the rifle recoil and the loud BLAM! when you pull the trigger - what a cool feature!!! The game is almost close to 100% functional. I grew up with these games and loved them back then...but now they are just too cool! For a living I'm a mechanism's engineer (masters in mechanical)...so it is a real pleasure to work on and then play them. I'm fascinated that some of the most sophisticated mechanisms I have designed for the automotive industry (minus the advances in electronics) are similar or on par with what is in this game! Now I'll just have to figure out how to slip a black light into my next patent. ;)

If only I had more room...they would be a serious addiction...

Alan
 
vid was too dark to see good... but it was cool!

I was gonna offer to see if I could make the shaft for you... but then you let on you were far more skilled doing it... so forget it! :)


yup.. I think I want EM's now.. prob more interested in those than vid's...
 
I actually have two...both South Bends. One has a 9" throw (from the 1940's) and the nice one has a 13" throw (from the 1960's and built like a tank). The cool feature is the larger one has the pin 'gear shifter' for changing speeds but my little one is the manual gear change type. Both have some unique features and are great for projects. Got them re-wired to run on 110v.

I know you have a couple of EM shooter's right? Do your rifles kick-back? Anyways...I discovered last night my game has a 'kick-back' or recoil feature for when you fire the rifle. It wasn't working...but after a quick rebuild it now works perfect! Hilarious to feel the rifle recoil and the loud BLAM! when you pull the trigger - what a cool feature!!! The game is almost close to 100% functional. I grew up with these games and loved them back then...but now they are just too cool! For a living I'm a mechanism's engineer (masters in mechanical)...so it is a real pleasure to work on and then play them. I'm fascinated that some of the most sophisticated mechanisms I have designed for the automotive industry (minus the advances in electronics) are similar or on par with what is in this game! Now I'll just have to figure out how to slip a black light into my next patent. ;)

If only I had more room...they would be a serious addiction...

Alan


Alan,

I just have one EM shooter right now(Captain Kid; Midway 1966). I don't believe it has rifle recoil; just by looking at how the gun is mounted I would say no. But now I can't be 100% sure since I'm no expert in the EM field. I will have to do some research.
 
Alan,

I just have one EM shooter right now(Captain Kid; Midway 1966). I don't believe it has rifle recoil; just by looking at how the gun is mounted I would say no. But now I can't be 100% sure since I'm no expert in the EM field. I will have to do some research.


If you open the coin door and look up and inside my game it has a solenoid and slide located on the back side of the vertical rifle pivot shaft. The solenoid fires and shoots the slide directly into the shaft of the rifle pivot with a serious 'KLUNK'! There are many pinch points in this mechanism and very easy to see over time the wires getting chopped like a guillotine. That is exactly what had rendered mine inoperable. With some quick wire re-routing and a repair to the actual rifle pivot stop....the wires are now nice and clear. If you have that feature it is a MUST to get it working.

I repaired my 8-track player last night...so now I have the jungle drums and crazy background sounds blasting...this game is too funny...

Alan
 
If you open the coin door and look up and inside my game it has a solenoid and slide located on the back side of the vertical rifle pivot shaft. The solenoid fires and shoots the slide directly into the shaft of the rifle pivot with a serious 'KLUNK'! There are many pinch points in this mechanism and very easy to see over time the wires getting chopped like a guillotine. That is exactly what had rendered mine inoperable. With some quick wire re-routing and a repair to the actual rifle pivot stop....the wires are now nice and clear. If you have that feature it is a MUST to get it working.

I repaired my 8-track player last night...so now I have the jungle drums and crazy background sounds blasting...this game is too funny...

Alan

I will definitely check this out later tonite. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the info!
 
Captian kid should have recoil

Bob

Hey John...this is great news from Bob...sounds like your game has the recoil feature!

One funny thing about these games that I'm finding out is many of them still partially work (which is hard to believe considering the amount of moving parts) but many cool features go inop. without the player really noticing the difference in game play. When I purchased my game I asked the seller if the original 8-track player was there and he laughed at me saying there is no 8 track player in this game! I'm sure it quit working many moons ago and went unnoticed. Just like the recoil feature...
 
Hey John...this is great news from Bob...sounds like your game has the recoil feature!

One funny thing about these games that I'm finding out is many of them still partially work (which is hard to believe considering the amount of moving parts) but many cool features go inop. without the player really noticing the difference in game play. When I purchased my game I asked the seller if the original 8-track player was there and he laughed at me saying there is no 8 track player in this game! I'm sure it quit working many moons ago and went unnoticed. Just like the recoil feature...


Yep, mine has the recoil; I'm going to do a test later tonite and see how well(or not) it is working. Then I will go from there with repairs. I don't think its working full strength; there's not much of a clunk there...
 
Be carefull when you play with that coil i believe it to 110 volts

Bob
 
Be carefull when you play with that coil i believe it to 110 volts

Bob

Yeah John...and also remember no tuner cleaner, WD40 or anything with petrolium in it...we don't want to hear about the flaming recoil feature! That one is not fun. If anything is dirty clean it with iso-alchohol.

First thing I would check is the continuity from the coil to the connector...to make sure you do not have any cut/sliced wires...
 
Yeah John...and also remember no tuner cleaner, WD40 or anything with petrolium in it...we don't want to hear about the flaming recoil feature! That one is not fun. If anything is dirty clean it with iso-alchohol.

First thing I would check is the continuity from the coil to the connector...to make sure you do not have any cut/sliced wires...


Ok guys, its unplugged! I got zapped by my Gorf machine once; never again. Thanks for the info. I haven't touched it yet in depth...soon though.
 
In The Home Stretch....

Well...the 8 track player is finally rebuilt...and Tranquility Base Arcade has its first dime machine! After a pretty serious re-tune/rebuild of all the mechanicals...I have converted my 1971 Midway Wild Kingdom back to dime play. In that honor I couldn't help but think of this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWg-mozGsU
 

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