Vertical Sync issue and HV shutdown - Paperboy and K7000. ARRGH!

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Vertical Sync issue and HV shutdown - Paperboy and K7000. ARRGH!

I am at my wits end with this Paperboy. I am cursed with this thing. If you're keeping score...

I had a Disco monitor in my Paperboy. It took forever to warm up. So, I capped it. Well, as I got into capping it I realized I had some goofy ass Disco and the cap kit didn't match. I replaced a few wrong cap values and then got confused and it was all screwed up. I finally got it working again but it was ROLLING. I couldn't get it to sync vertically. It barely rolled. If I walked away after I got it to sync I'd come back and it was rolling. Very frustrating. AND, the bottom was smooshed. Everyone told me Discos suck. So, I looked for a replacement.

Picked up a cheap Toobin' for the K7000 monitor in it. Got it home, neck is cracked!!! ARRGH!! So, I pulled the chassis and stuck it on the Disco tube. It worked! But, it was rolling still!! And, I had a bad curve on the right side.

So... I capped the K7000. I messed up the cap kit and installed a cap backwards. I fixed that but then found I blew a resistor (R91 1.2 OHM 5% 2W MF). I stuck a 1.0 OHM on there and IT WORKS!! But, I still have the frickin' god darn Vertical Roll. I can't get it to sync. And I also have the curve STILL on the right. And, the worst part, if I touch any of the adjustment knobs the monitor SHUTS DOWN. I can't make adjustments more than a few seconds and after that it shuts down and I have to wait. It's going into HV shutdown constantly.

This monitor is making me MAD!!!! ARRRGH!

Any ideas. :)

I am all over the Randy Fromm Flow Charts and they got the monitor working again. I am just exhausted from this thing. I just want my Paperboy back! Anyone have a magic wand?

Also, what are the odds that two monitors would have the same sync issues?? Besides the HV shutdown issue, which is an issue, isn't it odd that the K7000 is rolling like my DISCO did?? Could it be the headers on the PCB video out?? I was thinking of reflowing those next to hopefully fix the rolling if it is a PCB issue. What else could it be?
 
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1) If you've been all over Randy Fromm's charts, then you know what your B+ is currently. What is it?

2) Do you have both sync wires connected to your chassis? If so, try removing the vertical sync...
 
The 7000 requires negative composite sync from your game boardset. If you are hooking up the positive individual sync that you had hooked up to your 4900, it will never sync up.

If you have no clue what I am talking about, do a search for Atari System 2 Video Cable.
 
The 7000 requires negative composite sync from your game boardset. If you are hooking up the positive individual sync that you had hooked up to your 4900, it will never sync up.

If you have no clue what I am talking about, do a search for Atari System 2 Video Cable.

I didn't have a 4900 in my Paperboy. It was a Disco (ADI) AGM-19M.


I thought about this issue with the sync wire and dismissed it because my Disco was doing it too. I'll look into it. Thanks!!
 
1) If you've been all over Randy Fromm's charts, then you know what your B+ is currently. What is it?

2) Do you have both sync wires connected to your chassis? If so, try removing the vertical sync...

No, I haven't checked the B+ yet. It's next on my list according to Randy's FC. Looks like I can't adjust it even if it is bad, the pot has been glued down.

Will check the sync wires.
 
You can't adjust it, but you can know if things are WAY out of whack if you do check it. Like if it's way too high, or too low, you know there are other things to look for. Since you're having HV shutdown, I'm going to go out on a limb and say there are other issues that need to be corrected.

Now...You used the K7000 on the disco yoke...it sounds like the geometry is off, and that's why you're getting that curve. There may be a yoke issue.

Getting slightly off track here, and I'm talking to everyone...you mentioned that maybe there could be issues with the video input connector, and asked if you should reflow it?

Any time you do major work on a monitor like you're doing, spend 15 minutes and touch up as many solder joints as you can. You're already set up for the work, the iron is hot, just go for it. Broken solder joints create so many problems it's ridiculous.

I repaired a G07-CAO a few days ago with some weird issues. I retouched the "usual suspects" with no help, so finally I just sat down and hit every joint on the board. Now it's got a perfect picture.

Pain in the ass? Sure! But would you rather chase issues that may or may not actually be there for hours over 20 minutes worth of work?
 
The 7000 requires negative composite sync from your game boardset. If you are hooking up the positive individual sync that you had hooked up to your 4900, it will never sync up.

If you have no clue what I am talking about, do a search for Atari System 2 Video Cable.

So, there are two plug inputs on the monitor.

On my old monitor I had RGBGH+V+ hooked up and didn't touch the 3 extra prongs which were GH-V-

So... Where do I get H-V-???

By the way I noticed the video harness has an extra plug on the end. I am guessing I need to pull wires off of that.
 
So, these are the wires coming off the PCB.

How should I handle this??

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The video harness has 1 plug on the game board end. It is P19. The monitor end has 2 plugs. 1 plug is for positive individual sync, 1 plug is for negative composite sync. You need to use the 1 for negative composite sync.
 
The video harness has 1 plug on the game board end. It is P19. The monitor end has 2 plugs. 1 plug is for positive individual sync, 1 plug is for negative composite sync. You need to use the 1 for negative composite sync.

Dokert, I was using J205B (per the above). I plug that in and it rolls.

I tried J205A (which should be the other plug you are speaking of) and I get no picture. But, it seems like the plug is too small cause it doesn't hit the H-V- leads on the monitor (which are separated as the lonely 3 pins).

The J205A has that BROWN COMP SYNC wire which I am guessing is the one you want me to use. Where should it line up??? Should the Brown Comp Sync wire be hitting +H +V -H or -V????
 
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The 205A connector hooks up to your monitor from left to right in your drawing pic as follows:

R G B Gnd NC NC key NC NC Comp Sync

So you are saying the Brown wire goes to -H??

And, 205A is not that large it only is 6 pins. So, I need separate the brown wire and create a new molex for it.
 
So you are saying the Brown wire goes to -H??

And, 205A is not that large it only is 6 pins. So, I need separate the brown wire and create a new molex for it.

Yes, exactly.

You can do it with a 6 position and a 3 position molex or you can use a 10 position molex.

If you look at a 720 (the game) scat it shows just that.
 
Yes, exactly.

You can do it with a 6 position and a 3 position molex or you can use a 10 position molex.

If you look at a 720 (the game) scat it shows just that.

Dokert, thanks for the clarification. I will try this tomorrow! Can't wait.

Still have the pincushion issue... Will this fix it??! Can't wait to see.
 
Many times. Sometimes it goes really well, and sometimes it takes quite a while to get it "right." You'll want to have a place where you can have the monitor free-standing so you can make adjustments while watching the picture.

I suggested an incompatible yoke earlier, you may have missed it. Meter the two yokes and see how far apart they are in resistance. My guess is one of them is significantly different.

If you'd like, I'd be happy to help.
 
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