Indeed.
My two caps the tops are cracks and domed heavily. I'm sure they are both bad. I have e-mailed Bob to see if he has them. If he doesn't I'll go the mouser route.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YSF2TXgbNJ74MQtzUs1RXXA=
The other interesting thing is. C144 on my board had a 25V 2200uf cap in it originally. The cap that Bob sent me was 35V 1000uf. I e-mailed him and asked about this and he said that the boards were made with the 1000uf caps. So I went ahead and put it in. I had to do some vertical linearity adjustment with the new caps at first. Just for giggles I stuck the old cap back in (2200uf). The vertical linearity was skewed the opposite way. So I can hands down conclude that this was the cap responsible for vertical linearity adjustment after the cap kit.
The bum news is, the vertical shaking remains. ho hum. You can KIND of see it in the video of my cab in the previous post.
I found this;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121837.0
All of those caps were replaced I believe. So unless I got a bad brand new cap I'm at a loss. I also am trying to figure out why there is a slight horizontal tilt now.
you have to tinker with the remote board adjustments. the Polo has a setting called H. Freq which I think is like H. Hold, and H. Phase is like H. Position, H. Amp is H. Size, and the same for the verticals. the pots are probably dirty internally, or they're physically broken on the inside. OR maybe it's as simple as wiping them, where you turn the knobs back and forth (to the extremes) a few times, which can clean the surface inside. I brushed up on my electronics stuff last night.. potentiometers will have the pins arranged in like a triangle pattern. 2 pins will be on one side, and the other in the middle on the other side. or if you've ever seen a volume pot, it will have 3 terminals sticking out the bottom.
the 2 pin part, or outer 2 terminals, are the actual resistor surface inside the pot. to test if it's cracked, ohm between the two points (the range will be determined by the pot's rated resistance) and if it's within range, it's good. if it shows open, then you have a crack in the surface. now ohm between the middle pin/terminal to one of the other points, and turn the pot. does the number on your meter flow smoothly? if it's jerky, then either the wiper is bad or the surface is dirty. if either of these scenarios happens, then you just have a bad pot. if the pot's bad, effectively the adjustments will be of incorrect resistance and will not work right. if your picture is changing vertical size erratically, I would target the V. Amp pot specifically. if it looks like the entire picture is moving up and down, then I would look at the V. Phase, or if there's a V. Freq check that too, as that's the vertical hold.
I would test these while the game is off, as verifying the pots' condition does not require the game to be on and will reduce your chances of bridging pins/traces and causing any other damage.
if your solder joints on the vertical IC are fine, then it's probably something in the remote board. I would think if the vertical IC did fail then you would just have vertical collapse (a single horizontal line across the screen)