Veritcal shaking after cap kit Hantarex Polo 25

Aval0n

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So I got done with my cap kit from Bob Roberts, and after I got everything in and the vertical linearity all squared away, the pic looks great. Except. I now have some shaking going on vertically like an earthquake.

I have some blooming going on as well but that was present before the cap kit. I am planning on replacing the two large caps for the power supply to remedy the blooming but I am unsure of what to do with this vertical shaking.

Has anyone else run across this?


Thanks
 
the Polo in my KI1 does this. it's extremely finnicky on the vertical size adjustment. I almost wonder if it's something wrong with the vertical IC. I had another scrap chassis that had issues with the vertical stuff and wound up just changing it out with another one I had. worked great after that.

if you look at the heatsink before the flyback, there's an IC mounted to the heatsink that has a lot of legs. I would check that for cold solder and see if that fixes it. the other thing is it could be one of the remote board pots, probably the Vertical Amp one. try turning it back and forth a few times while the game is off to wipe it, then when you turn the game back on try to adjust it out.

it took me a lot of effort to get mine where the size was correct and it wouldn't bounce all over the damn place. once I get my games back I'll mess with it again lol
 
Hmm, all I have is the remote board under the monitor itself. Is there supposed to be another?
 
that's the one I refer to. lol. the V. Amp pot. do what I said in the post before this. actually, just try turning it very subtly to see if you can get the shaking to stabilize first.
 
I think playing with this pot briefly makes the shaking subside. it's a bit hard to tell could be co-incidence.

I live this KI cab but it has been finicky lol. occasionally the speakers will make a little interference noise for about 10 seconds and go away. I only notice that on attract mode when there is no sound playing. When the sound is on it's never noticeable. :)

I have re-soldered most everything to eliminate the possibility of a cold solder joint but I will look specifically at this IC.
 
the buzzing/hum sound is perfectly normal. just how Williams/Midway sound hardware works. I think it sounds cool, so it doesn't bother me at all.
 
can you tell me the part number on that? it's also the one that's closest to the back edge of the chassis, like where the remote board cabling and the signal header and AC all plug in at. wish I had one here with me. it's the chip that's got like 10 legs on it though.
 
nah, that's the HOT. the other heatsink in the middle.

Hantarex%20Polo-2%20-%20Where's%20the%20HOT.jpg


one in lower right corner.

not the #2 one, the one to the right of it lol. those clips come off btw, they snap in.
 
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Of course... it's scratched up, but it looks like it reads W8811405
 
how do the solder joints look though? I didn't pay attention to that shit when I capped my KI1... I've grown much in that department since then lol

on stuff like that now, what I'll do is desolder the part completely out, then use a dental pick to scrape off any flux, and 91% or so rubbing alcohol with a toothbrush to wipe the rest off and then re-solder back in.

also, I learned the hard way, be extra careful when handling the neckboard. if you bend the color drive transistors (the parts with the heatsinks on them) and touch them together, you'll nuke the resistor(s) for the blanking circuit.
 
I used de-soldering braid to remove old solder. and cleaned flux and re-soldered. Same effect.
 
The two power supply caps are 200v 330uf. I'm going to order those from mouser if Bob doesn't have them to assist remedying the blooming.

The vertical shaking has me at a loss however.
 
Blooming. Ever notice a transition between a dark screen to a bright white one and the whole picture expands and contracts? This is "blooming". It's caused by filter caps (the largest capacitors) on their way out. They're rated at 470 uF / 200V. If you intend on keeping your Polo for awhile it's probably a good idea to change these anyway.

IMAG0291_800x479.jpg


guess it depends on your chassis, I've heard reports of others being 330 uF. FWIW I have like 5 of them and they're all 470 uF / 200V

also notice in my picture how the outer plastic is disappearing on the top of the right cap. that one's probably going bad. :) the more the metal top is exposed on top shows that the cap is going bad.
 
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Indeed. :)

My two caps the tops are cracks and domed heavily. I'm sure they are both bad. I have e-mailed Bob to see if he has them. If he doesn't I'll go the mouser route.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YSF2TXgbNJ74MQtzUs1RXXA=

The other interesting thing is. C144 on my board had a 25V 2200uf cap in it originally. The cap that Bob sent me was 35V 1000uf. I e-mailed him and asked about this and he said that the boards were made with the 1000uf caps. So I went ahead and put it in. I had to do some vertical linearity adjustment with the new caps at first. Just for giggles I stuck the old cap back in (2200uf). The vertical linearity was skewed the opposite way. So I can hands down conclude that this was the cap responsible for vertical linearity adjustment after the cap kit.

The bum news is, the vertical shaking remains. ho hum. You can KIND of see it in the video of my cab in the previous post.

I found this;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121837.0

All of those caps were replaced I believe. So unless I got a bad brand new cap I'm at a loss. I also am trying to figure out why there is a slight horizontal tilt now.
 
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Indeed. :)

My two caps the tops are cracks and domed heavily. I'm sure they are both bad. I have e-mailed Bob to see if he has them. If he doesn't I'll go the mouser route.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YSF2TXgbNJ74MQtzUs1RXXA=

The other interesting thing is. C144 on my board had a 25V 2200uf cap in it originally. The cap that Bob sent me was 35V 1000uf. I e-mailed him and asked about this and he said that the boards were made with the 1000uf caps. So I went ahead and put it in. I had to do some vertical linearity adjustment with the new caps at first. Just for giggles I stuck the old cap back in (2200uf). The vertical linearity was skewed the opposite way. So I can hands down conclude that this was the cap responsible for vertical linearity adjustment after the cap kit.

The bum news is, the vertical shaking remains. ho hum. You can KIND of see it in the video of my cab in the previous post.

I found this;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121837.0

All of those caps were replaced I believe. So unless I got a bad brand new cap I'm at a loss. I also am trying to figure out why there is a slight horizontal tilt now.

you have to tinker with the remote board adjustments. the Polo has a setting called H. Freq which I think is like H. Hold, and H. Phase is like H. Position, H. Amp is H. Size, and the same for the verticals. the pots are probably dirty internally, or they're physically broken on the inside. OR maybe it's as simple as wiping them, where you turn the knobs back and forth (to the extremes) a few times, which can clean the surface inside. I brushed up on my electronics stuff last night.. potentiometers will have the pins arranged in like a triangle pattern. 2 pins will be on one side, and the other in the middle on the other side. or if you've ever seen a volume pot, it will have 3 terminals sticking out the bottom.

the 2 pin part, or outer 2 terminals, are the actual resistor surface inside the pot. to test if it's cracked, ohm between the two points (the range will be determined by the pot's rated resistance) and if it's within range, it's good. if it shows open, then you have a crack in the surface. now ohm between the middle pin/terminal to one of the other points, and turn the pot. does the number on your meter flow smoothly? if it's jerky, then either the wiper is bad or the surface is dirty. if either of these scenarios happens, then you just have a bad pot. if the pot's bad, effectively the adjustments will be of incorrect resistance and will not work right. if your picture is changing vertical size erratically, I would target the V. Amp pot specifically. if it looks like the entire picture is moving up and down, then I would look at the V. Phase, or if there's a V. Freq check that too, as that's the vertical hold.

I would test these while the game is off, as verifying the pots' condition does not require the game to be on and will reduce your chances of bridging pins/traces and causing any other damage.

if your solder joints on the vertical IC are fine, then it's probably something in the remote board. I would think if the vertical IC did fail then you would just have vertical collapse (a single horizontal line across the screen)
 
Yesterday I did do the wipe on all pots on the pcb and the remote board as well.

I touched up all solder points on the remote board as well. I don't _think_ this was happening before the cap kit, but I am looking for things a lot more now having done one so it's hard to say for sure.

I'm going to full submerge my remote board in iso rubbing alcohol and wipe like crazy. I'll report back my findings.
 
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So I submerged the entire pcb in alochol and wiped like crazy even found out that the infamous C401 cap exists on the remote board. I actually got my hopes up finding this cap.

I replaced it and it's still the same result. =(
 
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