I'm not going to argue with you about stupid shit I do not have the time or energy, in the end of the day Jason is still going to sell these things no matter how many walls of text you furiously post. For someone who repairs hundreds of boards you sure got a lot of time to sling shit at people, that's all I'm going to say about that.
I don't want to fight because unlike you I don't harbor animosity in my heart. I think you're legitimately bipolar or something because sometimes you're pretty reasonable and sometimes you're just a flagrant asshole for no reason. You are wrong and saying dumb shit because you cannot ever accept that sometimes you are wrong, you have a hyper inflated ego along with bipolar disorder. I'm going to continue to say high score saves multi game kits do damage and destroy peoples original motherboards. I've personally known multiple people that installed them and within 1-3 years usually their game starts acting up.
It's sadly typical. It's a pattern.
)
interesting. 95-88=7w and 7w/5v= 1.4a this is around 6x more current than the p4 position actually takes.I usually steer clear from commenting on these types of threads... but here I feel that maybe everyone is right, and I'll offer an additional perspective on our beloved hobby.
I've been working on a light restore of my PolePosition, and just this week I received two rebuilt Atari AR's for my Pole Position (thank you @andrewb !), a repro plastic shroud and CPO's (thank you PhoenixArcade!), NOS 5k pots and throttle cable (thanks BackinTime82 and Mylstar!), and a full pedal assembly as it was the only way I could find a pulley (thanks angelo0103!).
Why did I get rebuilt AR's? Because I has having issues with the sound, and when I tried my nice new Alan-1 AR (thanks mydentist and divingbuddy!) in the cabinet, the sound was fixed! I'm very glad I have that Alan-1 board as it is a very handy tool for me to quickly troubleshoot! Couldn't I have fixed the old AR's? Probably, but I'm still pretty novice at soldering and was getting impatient with the game in disarray in the middle of grade8arcade. Andy had them in stock at a fair price, shipped quickly, and provides great support. And, I certainly do plan to fix the old ones in the future as I continue to learn and grow in the hobby.
You know what I'm pairing Andy's AR's with? ...wait for it... @ArcadeJason's P4 Position! Both of these products get along very well together!
Why would I be using the P4 board, especially since I have operational (mostly) OG boards in the cabinet? For me, as long as the cabinet/controls experience is exact, and gameplay differences are imperceptible to me, I embrace FPGA or similar emulation boards in my machine. Why? For me the reason is somewhat reliability, but the main reason is power consumption (and heat). The less power I use, the more games I can add and operate in grade8arcade on my 100amp panel. I did some testing yesterday afternoon that really demonstrates this. All of my games are plugged into outlets that provide real-time power monitoring/reporting. For this PolePosition, these are the results:
Just AR's (No Monitor or Boards connected) = 31W
Just AR's and Monitor (no Boards) = 88 W
AR's, Mon and Original Boards = 245W
AR's, Mon and AJ's P4 board = 95W
This is over a 60% savings!
Am I going to throw away the original boards? Of course not. They will remain in the cabinet. Just like my Q*Bert (Yellow JROK). And soon BattleZone (RedZone), Sinistar (JROK Red), Super PacMan (BitKit2).... and Omega Race (See how I brought this post back to OP thread relevance?
And the result of this power savings will allow me to preserve even more games, which is what I believe we all are striving for.
I was curious on this too... so I just ran another test.
drive.google.com
I usually steer clear from commenting on these types of threads... but here I feel that maybe everyone is right, and I'll offer an additional perspective on our beloved hobby.
I've been working on a light restore of my PolePosition, and just this week I received two rebuilt Atari AR's for my Pole Position (thank you @andrewb !), a repro plastic shroud and CPO's (thank you PhoenixArcade!), NOS 5k pots and throttle cable (thanks BackinTime82 and Mylstar!), and a full pedal assembly as it was the only way I could find a pulley (thanks angelo0103!).
Why did I get rebuilt AR's? Because I has having issues with the sound, and when I tried my nice new Alan-1 AR (thanks mydentist and divingbuddy!) in the cabinet, the sound was fixed! I'm very glad I have that Alan-1 board as it is a very handy tool for me to quickly troubleshoot! Couldn't I have fixed the old AR's? Probably, but I'm still pretty novice at soldering and was getting impatient with the game in disarray in the middle of grade8arcade. Andy had them in stock at a fair price, shipped quickly, and provides great support. And, I certainly do plan to fix the old ones in the future as I continue to learn and grow in the hobby.
You know what I'm pairing Andy's AR's with? ...wait for it... @ArcadeJason's P4 Position! Both of these products get along very well together!
Why would I be using the P4 board, especially since I have operational (mostly) OG boards in the cabinet? For me, as long as the cabinet/controls experience is exact, and gameplay differences are imperceptible to me, I embrace FPGA or similar emulation boards in my machine. Why? For me the reason is somewhat reliability, but the main reason is power consumption (and heat). The less power I use, the more games I can add and operate in grade8arcade on my 100amp panel. I did some testing yesterday afternoon that really demonstrates this. All of my games are plugged into outlets that provide real-time power monitoring/reporting. For this PolePosition, these are the results:
Just AR's (No Monitor or Boards connected) = 31W
Just AR's and Monitor (no Boards) = 88 W
AR's, Mon and Original Boards = 245W
AR's, Mon and AJ's P4 board = 95W
This is over a 60% savings!
Am I going to throw away the original boards? Of course not. They will remain in the cabinet. Just like my Q*Bert (Yellow JROK). And soon BattleZone (RedZone), Sinistar (JROK Red), Super PacMan (BitKit2).... and Omega Race (See how I brought this post back to OP thread relevance?
And the result of this power savings will allow me to preserve even more games, which is what I believe we all are striving for.
Unfortunately the awesome AR2 design is not quite 100% efficient. Probably losing 20% or more in the transformer then another > 50% since the 5V is pass regulated from a 10.3V raw supply. This is not even counting rectifier losses wiring losses etc.
Yes well understood, my point was at 1.4a it didn't make sense even with the ar2s inefficiency. Way off in fact. Then tasty removed the monitor from the test and now its closer to a margin of error.
