v2000 battlezone cabaret monitor issue....

tron guy

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I just got this game today from R5G. He had mentioned before it had issues but that the monitor was working.

Anyway, I turned it on, got neck glow, but no picture. I tried adjusting the brightness pot but nothing changed. If there is a spot killer on this thing, it remained on the entire time.

Another curious thing is that I tried to coin up (didn't hear any registering of credits) but the start button would randomly turn red for a second, then disappear. did this constantly. This will be for another day and another section once I figure out if I have a monitor issue.

Anyway, I pulled the monitor and I am going to cap it and change the frame mounted transistors while I am at it.

I assume it's possible that a board issue could cause me to not have any video huh?
How about that red led(on the deflection board) staying on the entire time?
 
I could mention that every fuse is good, and that it looks like all of the connectors have already had the solder reflowed. I intend to do this again, but it looks pretty good already.
 
I think it may be worth noting that my monitor does not have the 'ceramic'? pieces shown in the picture of this link below:
down by the bottom of the pic near P299 covered in red

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=199087&highlight=v2000+pictures

just some wire connecting the 2 points.

Those are R100 & R101. They are/were inrush current limiting resistors. Later version of the boards didn't have them, but just had jumpers instead. It's normal; you just have a later PCB (or a modified early version).

The red LED on the monitor deflection board is the "spot killer" indicator. It indicates that the monitor is not recieving any video input (deflection) signals, and it's turing off the beam to keep from burning a spot in the center of the screen. It's possible that there is an issue with the spot-killer circuit on the monitor, but IMHO more likely that your game PCB isn't sending out any deflection signal. The best way to diagnose at this point is a known-good vector monitor (or X-Y mode oscilloscope), OR testing the monitor with a known-good vector game PCB. This way you can determine if your PCB is good/bad and if your monitor is good/bad. With both in an unknow state... life is a bitch.
 
well I have an asteroids that I could haul the monitor over and plug it in, but I think I will wait until I get my 15" monitor in the mail tomorrow. (rebuilt for my omega race, just bought it) I will test it with the battlezone cab and see what happens, and report back. In the mean time, I can rebuild this monitor tonight.
thanks bud

edit:
I suppose I could plug a 13 or 15 inch monitor into my asteroids (upright) to see if I get anything?

Those are R100 & R101. They are/were inrush current limiting resistors. Later version of the boards didn't have them, but just had jumpers instead. It's normal; you just have a later PCB (or a modified early version).

The red LED on the monitor deflection board is the "spot killer" indicator. It indicates that the monitor is not recieving any video input (deflection) signals, and it's turing off the beam to keep from burning a spot in the center of the screen. It's possible that there is an issue with the spot-killer circuit on the monitor, but IMHO more likely that your game PCB isn't sending out any deflection signal. The best way to diagnose at this point is a known-good vector monitor (or X-Y mode oscilloscope), OR testing the monitor with a known-good vector game PCB. This way you can determine if your PCB is good/bad and if your monitor is good/bad. With both in an unknow state... life is a bitch.
 
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Do yourself a HUGE favor and get the Battlezone High Score save kit from Braze. That alone could fix your problem and will eliminate several potential future problems.

Edit: did you say the game plays blind or did you bother to check ?

Double edit: just saw that the player 1 lit up but didn't work so did you check the voltages ?
 
Do yourself a HUGE favor and get the Battlezone High Score save kit from Braze. That alone could fix your problem and will eliminate several potential future problems.

Edit: did you say the game plays blind or did you bother to check ?

Double edit: just saw that the player 1 lit up but didn't work so did you check the voltages ?

didn't really get that far. guess I don't need the monitor hooked up to check voltages, so I can still go do that.
when it didn't coin up (audio-ly) :) and I didn't get a picture, I decided to pull the monitor and start working on it, I thought i had a a/rII rebuild kit but I didn't so I ordered one from bob. I do have a couple of v2000 rebuild kits so I am starting there.

when I get my new monitor tomorrow I will hook it up and see what happens.
 
well i installed the cap kit and changed the bottlecap transistors on the frame. no change.

voltages are:

+11.5 on the 10.3 (or whatever it is)

+23.7 and the +22
+13 (or so) on the +12
-23.7 on the -22


I have the high score save kit on the way. I will put that in and go from there. turns out I have a g05 in my asteroids not a v2000 so I couldn't test it in there? I did test the new 15" monitor for my omega race in there and it worked great. thanks danindenver
 
Difficult to troubleshoot a monitor if you don't know if you have a signal going into it.

You can either:

...plug it into another (known-working) game. Asteroids would be fine, so long as it's not an early model with the -801 wiring.

...or you can check your PCB to see if it has some sort of signals on the X & Y outputs. The thread below has some detailed BZ PCB testing and diasnosis stuff. Post #27 discussed the expected video output signals, as measured with a decent DMM (both AC and DC measurements). http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=169693
 
yeah the pinout looks the same, cool, I will test it in the asteroids then, and report back later.

got the hgih score kit in the mail, so once I determine ifthe monitor is working, I will toss the kit in as well.
 
ok I plugged the g05 805 (15" omega race monitor) into the battlezone and got the same thing, neck glow but no picture. This monitor was tested on my asteroids and was superb.

I had previously mentioned the voltages I was getting at the test point on the arII, not sure if those were correct or not.

but I pulled the arII and rebuilt it tonight. (haven't retested yet) One curious thing, is that R29 was blown. not just burnt, though it was burnt, it was cremated and oozed onto the other resistors next to it, lol. I cleaned it up and am about to replace it.

is that a sign of anything in particular?

anyway, I will finish the arII rebuild, then test it, then I will toss the big blue in there, test it, then the high score save kit and test it.
 
rebuilt the power supply board, now I have zero voltages from any test point. (shit!)

installed the new big blue as well.


I did have a fried resistor at R29 so I replaced it with the same value resistor as R30.
 
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