Unofficial Pi Position Q&A & Support Thread

Okay. So I figured it out. Here is what the config.txt file looks like and it works to connect directly to an LCD via a HDMI to VGA converter.

# For more options and information see
# http://rpf.io/configtxt
# Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details

# uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode
#hdmi_safe=1

# uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible
# and your display can output without overscan
#disable_overscan=1

# uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console
# goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border
#overscan_left=30
#overscan_right=30
#overscan_top=10
#overscan_bottom=30

# uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus
# overscan.
#framebuffer_width=1280
#framebuffer_height=720

# uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output
hdmi_force_hotplug=1

# uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)
hdmi_group=2
hdmi_mode=16

# uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in
# DMT (computer monitor) modes
hdmi_drive=2

# uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or
# no display
#config_hdmi_boost=4

# uncomment for composite PAL
#sdtv_mode=2

#uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.
#arm_freq=800

# Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces
#dtparam=i2c_arm=on
#dtparam=i2s=on
#dtparam=spi=on

# Uncomment this to enable infrared communication.
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18

# Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README

# Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)
#dtparam=audio=on

[pi4]
# Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack
#dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d
#max_framebuffers=2

[all]
#dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d

#dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt
#dtoverlay=disable-bt
#dtoverlay=vga565-3

#dpi_output_format=421907
#enable_dpi_lcd=1
#display_default_lcd=1

#dpi_group=2
#dpi_mode=87

#dpi_timings=320 1 16 30 34 240 0 2 30 22 0 0 0 60 0 6400000 1

#dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=19,func2=2
#dtparam=audio=on

#dtparam=i2c_arm=off
#dtparam=i2s=off
#dtparam=spi=off
 
Solution found if you want to display Pi Position on and LCD using the HDMI port....

Ignore previous posts. I finally figured it out. I am not a programmer and don't know Rasp Pi language but got lucky and found a post on a thread and you have to add a command "framebuffer_priority=2" to use the HDMI port to connect to an LCD through a VGA converter and still have the sound come through the cabinet wiring connected to the Pi Position. Here is the config file that worked for me:

# For more options and information see
# http://rpf.io/configtxt
# Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details

# uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode
#hdmi_safe=1

# uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible
# and your display can output without overscan
#disable_overscan=1

# uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console
# goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border
#overscan_left=30
#overscan_right=30
#overscan_top=10
#overscan_bottom=30

# uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus
# overscan.
#framebuffer_width=1280
#framebuffer_height=720

# uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output
hdmi_force_hotplug=1

# uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)
hdmi_group=2
hdmi_mode=16

# uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in
# DMT (computer monitor) modes
hdmi_drive=2

# uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or
# no display
#config_hdmi_boost=4

# uncomment for composite PAL
#sdtv_mode=2

#uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.
#arm_freq=800

# Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces
#dtparam=i2c_arm=on
#dtparam=i2s=on
#dtparam=spi=on

# Uncomment this to enable infrared communication.
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18

# Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README

# Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)
dtparam=audio=on

[pi4]
# Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack
dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d
max_framebuffers=2

[all]
#dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d

dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt
dtoverlay=disable-bt
dtoverlay=vga565-3

framebuffer_priority=2

dpi_output_format=421907
enable_dpi_lcd=1
display_default_lcd=1

dpi_group=2
dpi_mode=87

dpi_timings=320 1 16 30 34 240 0 2 30 22 0 0 0 60 0 6400000 1

dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=19,func2=2
dtparam=audio=on

dtparam=i2c_arm=off
dtparam=i2s=off
dtparam=spi=off
 
@portkey I can't thank you enough for going through the trouble of putting up the text for the HDMI out. I been unsuccessfully trying to troubleshoot it, but just loaded it up with your text and it seems to be working great. THANK YOU!!!!!
 
I put the Pi in my cab and got to play it for a bit! The accelerator wasn't working at first so I started poking around at the pot and it seemed like corrosion was keeping the pot from turning, but once I addressed that and ran the wire it was working. One weird thing that it was doing was for the first 30 seconds or so after booting (between both PP and PP2) the game would run as if the accelerator was down all the way and then it would fix it self and play normal for the rest of the time. Does this sound like a mame issue or possibly an issue with the pot?
Also, what holds the pedal assembly into the cab, two bolts? I was trying to pull it out, but it seemed like something else was holding it in there. There was also a hole drilled out on the bottom of the cab underneath the pot which I'm assuming didn't come like that from the factory?
 
Don't think this applies to Jason. I would like to convert my cabinet, but after discovering how hacked up the interior of my game is and what bad shape the wiring harness is in... I am debating whether or not to go for it. The Power has been soldered directly to the boards, which on rare occasion have worked..

I've never repined a harness, and don't know how complicated it would be to add a switcher to this cab? i'd love to have a reliable pole (pi) position, I'd like to hear from others just how difficult these conversions are and if the parts can be sourced easily? More importantly how well it works. My cabinet exterior is solid and in nice shape. All of the controls look good and functioned fine the last time it fired up. Most importantly it has a bright burn free monitor.

Anyone else in this boat?
 
Just rebuilt my G07 and I'm not able to center the picture vertically. I have a 2" gap at the bottom. Did anyone else have this issue?

Is there a way to adjust it in the menu of the PCB?

Thanks
 
Anyone know why this screen comes up before any game loads? It shows up after boot, then it plays Pole Pos 1. Hitting button, it shows again. then loads Pole Pos 2. etc, etc.

I've made sure it doesnt have any extra windows carriage returns. I've tried several roms including japan version, and US version. I've tried renaming the file in several variations.

All of the games, including PP2 work just fine.

my arcpi-config looks like

ENABLE_NET=1

# Boot splash, supported values: video, none
#SPLASH=video

# Game to start on boot (name of specific rom version, not necessarly zip name)
#BOOTGAME=poleposa

# Space-separated list of games to switch between (default: poleposa poleps2a)
# Note: some game rom names are mame version specific
GAMELIST=poleposa polepos2 offroad outrun smgp5 ssprint turbo

# Switch between all the games in rom-folder in alphabetical order
#ALLGAMES=1
Click to expand...
 

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Got a new pi position from arcadeshop and it won't sync. I have an older one running the same SD card and it syncs fine. Everything on the SD card is the newest release. I have tried different Pi boards and even 2 different pole cabs and monitors and still no sync. could it be a bad IC? anyone have this issue?
 
Salerno2442 said:
Just rebuilt my G07 and I'm not able to center the picture vertically. I have a 2" gap at the bottom. Did anyone else have this issue?

Is there a way to adjust it in the menu of the PCB?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Make sure you don't have both the sync wires hooked up. there is a disconnect on the purple wiring at the monitor plugs. Then the pic should drop down and be adjustable from the pots
 
If anyone wants to fix the issue with the "arcpi-config line 20 polepos2a" message that appears between games, I created a fix.

1) edit and then save /opt/gpio_games.py. Change line 44 to include a .replace like this: game_list = cfg.get('GAMELIST', 'poleposa polepos2').replace('"', '').split()

2) edit and save /boot/arcpi-config.txt and add double quotes around the games. e.g. GAMELIST="poleposa polepos2 offroad outrun smgp5 ssprint turbo"


reboot.
 
Hello! Last weekend I purchased a PP upright that the previous owner had tried to get the Pi Position working in and gave up. I've been tinkering for a few days and made good progress. I have the games booting up and displaying fine (cab has a 19" LCD in it, so I used the config.txt info above to get video output working). I'm generally seeing success with PP, PP2, Championship Sprint, Super Sprint, and Off-Road. I will need to add a nitro button for Off-road using a separate keyboard encoder, but otherwise those games work pretty well. For the Sprint games I mapped Start in MAME to the pedal being pressed down, which seems to be working.

The main problems I'm seeing at the moment are related to accelerator pedal behavior in PP1 and PP2.

In both games, test mode shows the pedal value mostly at 00 but occasionally flashing FF. With the *lightest* touch on the pedal, it goes to FF-FE (assuming that's the max input value) and then as I depress the pedal further it goes down to a minimum value of about 6B at around 50% pedal down and stays there until the pedal is on the floor. As a result, in game, no pedal input at all keeps the car stopped, but then the lightest touch gives you max acceleration. As you press the pedal further, the acceleration becomes lower and in high gear the speed is actually reduced at greater pedal inputs than at very, very light touch.

I tried doing the "pedal reverse ON" option in MAME, but then the car accelerates with NO pedal input and slows as I press the pedal. So I don't think it's a matter of it just being the "backwards." I thought perhaps the pot was bad and basically "shorting" to minimum resistance when the pedal was only slightly depressed, so I put a multimeter on the pot terminals and got the following:

Red to Green:
No pedal input: ~4.5Kohm
Half pedal input: ~2.2Kohm
Max pedal input: ~500ohm
Smooth progression

Black to Green:
No pedal input: ~600 ohm
Half pedal input: ~2.3Kohm
Max pedal input: ~4.6Kohm
Smooth progression

So the pedal's pot *seems* to be working fine with consistent minimum and maximum values and smooth progression from one extreme to the other, depending on which input you're checking against.

Another interesting data point is that in Super Sprint and Championship Sprint the accelerator works as it should. In test mode those both show a progression from essentially 0 input to max input as I press the pedal down, and in game, the car's acceleration matches the pedal position. No pedal input, car is stopped; very slight pedal input, car just barely moves; full pedal input, car accelerates at maximum rate.

This is making me wonder if it's some MAME settings in the Pole Position games. I'm using the updated image that was posted earlier in this thread. Is there a calibration I can do in the PP games? Selecting the MAME "Joystick Calibration" option doesn't do anything, and there does not seem to be a calibrate option in test mode, only the output values being displayed.

Thanks for any help!
 
kireol said:
If anyone wants to fix the issue with the "arcpi-config line 20 polepos2a" message that appears between games, I created a fix.

1) edit and then save /opt/gpio_games.py. Change line 44 to include a .replace like this: game_list = cfg.get('GAMELIST', 'poleposa polepos2').replace('"', '').split()

2) edit and save /boot/arcpi-config.txt and add double quotes around the games. e.g. GAMELIST="poleposa polepos2 offroad outrun smgp5 ssprint turbo"


reboot.
Click to expand...
How are you getting to a command prompt to edit that .py file? The networking function doesn't seem to be working and I can't seem to get to a bash or command prompt from the console.
 
Last edited:
Hey everyone,

I tried booting up a pi position for the first time this evening. Power light turned on, and shortly thereafter smoke started rising from the raspberry pi. Is this a know issue, with a known fix? Thank you!
 
PhotoJosh78 said:
Hey everyone,

I tried booting up a pi position for the first time this evening. Power light turned on, and shortly thereafter smoke started rising from the raspberry pi. Is this a know issue, with a known fix? Thank you!
Click to expand...
LOL The fix... prolly buy another Pi then figure out what you messed up on.
 
I was thinking about the Pi Position today, and I'd like to do a little more with mine. I added some more games, but I really don't enjoy the interface to switch games. I was thinking about fooling around with writing a better front end for myself, but to that end I'd like to know the way the hardware is wired up. Digging around in the software a little and here are my assumptions and questions for anyone who might know:

1. I'm assuming the steering wheel is connected as a mouse?

2. I'm assuming the gas pedal is connected as a joystick?

3. All other buttons (shifter, coins, self test switch and coin up button) are all connected to GPIO pins on the Pi? Which pins correspond to which inputs?
 
VidyaGamez said:
Here it is on a K4900 I have (ignore the bad colors, its not dialed in). Im having problems with the width coil on the chassis but if it were working I would be able to stretch it where I needed. Wonder why the board isnt playing nice with my G07?
View attachment 539174

Edit: I did try another g07 tube + chassis, same issue with the image not stretching up enough. Raster is up there, no image. Top section doesnt sync consistently, vertical width is better. Strange, it must not like G07s :confused:
Click to expand...
Im looking into this again, still having problems with the top section of the G07 monitor not syncing properly, it changes as the game changes screens in attract. Seems to only be G07s with the Pi Position board. Anyone have any ideas? Thinking of just getting a Matsushita for my Pole Position, maybe it'll work with the board
 
thepmk said:
@portkey I can't thank you enough for going through the trouble of putting up the text for the HDMI out. I been unsuccessfully trying to troubleshoot it, but just loaded it up with your text and it seems to be working great. THANK YOU!!!!!
Click to expand...
Looking for help on how to insert command and text file to get this working? Any help appreciated
 
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